Jungle Safari

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Here we are in Puerto Maldonado, the Jungle, Peru. It took us 33 hours to get from Cuzco where the air is cold and thin, to this place where we’re 200m above sea level and the humidity is at least 100 percent. The bus from Cuzco left at 3pm on Saturday and was supposed to take 27 hours. Mike had a comical lack of leg room.

The lady sitting behind me was extremely drunk and also very upset and got in a shouting match with some guy trying to sell motivational pamphlets. She proceeded to sing out loud and wave her arms out the window pretty much the whole way. She hit us on the head several times while she was flailing, and was kicked off briefly but returned much to our chagrin.

Also along for the ride was a cage full of budgies, some turkeys, some chickens and two rabbits, although only the budgies got to ride with the passengers. The first half of the ride was terrifying, especially for me since I had the window seat. There were lots of narrow roads and cliffs. We actually passed a truck that had gone over the edge and dumped all its cargo on the way down. Nice mountain views though. After it got dark, they started playing weird music videos.

We were woken up at about 4am by some really bumpy roads, and found that we were in the jungle and going along a narrow road. The road was occasionally quite washed-out, and had a rather large river under it. We didn’t sleep much after that, what with the moon lighting up the raging rapids practically right under us.

The next day we drove through several dozen river beds and waterfalls, as well as over the occasional bridge. Good thing the tires were so big! Really, it was more of a stream than a road (Kind of like driving along Cowichan River). At about 12 we were going up a little hill when the transmission completely failed. We backed down the hill again, and into the stream we just crossed. Turns out the drive shaft had BROKEN IN HALF.

We were, of course, in the middle of the jungle and blocking the road. After a while a truck towed us up the hill to a better parking spot and someone went to the last town we passed for a new drive shaft. It was hot and humid and we waited six hours, but no one came to fix the bus. Since it was getting dark, Mike and I, along with several other people, jumped on a passing bus, also going to Puerto Maldonado. We were so excited to get out of there, I forgot my boots and Mike forgot his cds. (We may get them back, I've been told to go to the bus office at 2pm). So we went the last six hours of our journey in the dark in a really impressive electrical storm and pouring rain. Mike had even less leg space in this bus.

We got to Puerto Maldonado at 11pm and took a taxi to the Hostal el Astro, recommended by the people at the research station we're going to. It felt pretty good to have a cold drippy shower and a horizontal place to sleep. And to not be pressed against sweaty strangers.

In the morning I went to try and track down our lost stuff, was not that successful, and went back to the hostal. I figured we’d have to wait another day to find a canoe up the river, since it was getting late, but then a man came to see us who seems to be one of the people running to research station. They must have assumed, quite correctly, that we’re pretty clueless and come to pick us up -- quite alright with me. We then bought our national park passes, lunch, ice cream and plane tickets for the trip back to Cuzco. That’s right: plane tickets. No more busses, ever. Puerto Maldonado is really very big, and papaya juice is plentiful. There’s approximately one paved road, one ATM (thank goodness), lots of internet places, travel agencies, hostals, little restaurants and motorcycles (some of which are "taxis").

Ok, it’s off to the jungle for us! Thanks for all the comments, we really enjoy them!

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Photos

Bus Breakdown!: Noooooooo
So there were.... and then the bus broke down. We were going up a hill, and ... "Bang! put put put ... nothing". This is a pic of everyone standing around. We stood around like this for six more hours until Kathleen and I finally paid 17 S/. to get on another bus.

The "Drive Shaft"
Notice that it isn't driving much and isn't really much of a shaft anymore. Folks, remember to gear-down when you go up hills.

Bus getting towed
They were pulling our bus up the hill attached only by a spindley little rope!

Sunset
Ya, I know they're everywhere. But this one is at 5000 m ASL in the Andes so shut it.

Mike: sweating
Yeah, I know I'm shiney. Its like 35 degrees here and, like, 150% humidity I swear.

Comments

[adab]

hope the next lap is peaceful
This blog sort of gives me the chills - and I'm hoping the next lap of the trip is more peaceful, restful and whatever. You deserve.! xx el gm AMB

[Ron]

Holy smokes.
Drive shafts are not supposed to break! I wonder what the story is there. That sounds like a very difficult trip. I hope the rest of your adventure comes off without a hitch. Love, Ron

[jojo]

boooots!
noooo....lost boots- that's no good - did you get them back yet?!? or at all?? Yeah for the jungle! Kimmi and I just had our own fun times in the jungle known as Toronto- great time with Abi and friends... Keep the blogs a comin! Jojo

[Shannon]

the right choice
I seriously considered the bus ride when I was there, but was warned off of it. I was told it wasn't even a bus, but a truck. Flying is good. I love the stories. Good luck in the jungle.