Dispatches; Black Francis


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January 6th 2011
Published: January 6th 2011
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The two moany ladies who were billeted in my dorm have left. Okay, it's probably a bit unfair to label them so as a Scottish fellow who is also assigned to my quarters pointed out to me today that I snore loudly, and had I had a few beers last night. "Ha ha, you're Irish, what a silly question", he chortled. I hadn't been drinking last night, and now I feel terrible and aprehensive about going to sleep tonight and keeping everyone else awake with my nocturnal howls. But, as my friend Johnny P pointed out; if you're willing to stay in a dorm you have to make allowances for aural nuisances. So thanks Johnny, I'll try not worry about it too much.

Today it was really hot and sunny. Not unbearably so, but more than I've seen since Antigua in 2009, which is a fair bit off in the past. I'd had every intention of keeping the hair on my head but the heat made me decide otherwise and so I popped into a barbershop nearby. What a cool joint! The old guy was sawing away at another old guy's stubble in a shop that'd remind you of your nana's house; holy pictures, old vases, bottles of lotions of dubious vintage, and a dog asleep on the floor. The barber chairs were iron and leather and looked like they weighed the same as Sherman tank.

When it was my turn he looked a bit troubled as there was a language barrier so I just ran my hand across my head and went "zzzeeeeeoooowwwwww", using the well known international sound for 'take it all off, chief.' Which he did.

Walking down the street towards the shops I realised that with my black Pixies t-shirt, my black combats rolled up, my Nikes and my fat belly, I now bore a striking resemblance to the Boston rockers famous front man. What a Debaser!

The streets in Miraflores are lovely, and I've taken a shine to a street called Berlin. Not just becausethe original Berlin is top of the league in places anywhere but because there's really nice cafes and shops selling stuff that I have no clue of their use. I had lunch there in a Peruvian cafe and it was fantastic. One of the national dishes is Cerviche de Pescado. This is raw white fish marinated in either lemon or lime juice and herbs and spices. It's fantastic, and lovers of sushi will dig it. I would recommend looking up a recipe and having a pop at it.

By now the newly shorn head was starting to smart a bit and scream out for some attention, so I bought a real Panama hat. And cousin, this hat works! Panama hat fact numero uno; Panama hats aint from Panama, they're from Equador. I looked like a spa, but I don't care cos people keep their distance that way, and my head was cool.

As I wandered round the shops I remembered I had only taken one pair of short pants with me and would need another pair. The kind I go for are not the surf boardy types cos I can't surf and the colours tend to be garish. I prefer the military cargo pant type with pockets. Pockets are handy. And I still think I'm a soldier. So I wandered into the Timberland store that were displaying said pants. And promptly turned on my heel and left. So here's another gripe; what is the point of Timberland? Their clothes are not at all cool, or any different to the stuff in M&S, and not designed for rough handling despite the poncy instore pictures of models posing on uneven terrain. The bloody prices are astronomical and I then realised why black rappers wear their shit; they know nowt and have more money than sense.

In the end I got a pir of zip off outdoorsy adventure slacks, in charcoal grey. They hadn't got woodland camoflage in my size unfortunately.

Today I decided to stay an extra couple of days here, then head to Cusco around Monday next. It's substantially higher in altitude and will be good practice for La Paz which is higher again. I read that La paz sits at 13,000ft, and at that height there's 40% less oxygen than at sea level. Just as well I'm fit, with normal blood pressure, and not a trace of asthma!

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6th January 2011

Spanish 101
Shave it all off chief = Afeitado por si fuera poco, el jefe
6th January 2011

Black Francis
What is Black Francis?
7th January 2011

coffee
I notice a clear change since you have left Ireland: tea must have been the most mentioned thing in your FB statuses, but it seems to have been replaced by coffee/cafes, which have been mentioned in each of your post! It seems to be lovely there. I wonder if the image I have in my head from your descriptions would correspond to reality. Any pics?
9th January 2011

Black Francis
Ma, Black Francis, or Frank Black, is the frontman of Pixies. He's fat, bald, and wears t-shirts, baggy cacks, and trainers.

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