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Published: April 30th 2009
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Miraflores
An urban side of Peru I am now in the independent research portion of my trip here in Peru. I don’t have any classes or any responsibilities except for to write a giant paper on the topic of my choice. For my paper I am writing about the Yale University vs the Republic of Peru legal case. In a nutshell, when Hiram Bingham “re-discovered” Machu Picchu in an expedition from 1911-1916, he took a few things back to Yale with him….about 5,000 things. Since then these artifacts which include everything from textiles and ceramics to human remains has been housed in the Peabody Museum at the University. For several years now, Peru has wanted these pieces back. My project is dissecting the arguments from both sides. It is very interesting, especially because I have a hidden interest in law.
I’m living with 5 other girlfriends in an apartment complex owned by one of the universities close by here in Lima. We are still in Miraflores (the neighborhood we stayed in before) and I love every bit of it. We have two beds to a room, a nice living room and the complex of five apartments has a rooftop communal kitchen. It is a really nice
Cathedral
La Plaza de J.F. Kennedy apartment but I prefer to be out and away from it since it can suck you in like a black hole from which there is no escape. A highlight of living here has been the wonderful food. One of my friends is doing her ISP on Peruvian food. She met with one of the most famous chef's in all of South America and got us all a reservation at his masterpeice of a restaraunt. It has been ranked the best in South America....and is it ever. He set up a sample menu for us complete with drinks of our choice. Six different plates came at us all fantastic and desert was sublime. The best part.....IT WAS FREE. Looking at the prices on the wall, it could have been a 1,000 soles dinner for sure which would have come out to about $330!. Thank goodness for new friends in high places.
I’ve been making some interesting connections while I’ve been working on my Independent Research Paper (here after referred to as ISP). My advisor, Mariana Mould de Pease, is one of the heads of this ethical battle on the side of Perú. At the end of the day she is
one of the two women that keep the fight going. She is a very nice lady and full of passion. She also lets me speak in English when I’m having a tough time in Spanish. That’s always a bonus. Mariana has also set me up with the other powerhouse woman in this issue, ex-First Lady Eliane Karp-Toledo. Her husband, Alejandro Toledo, was President of Peru from 2001-2006 and was the first “indigenous” individual to be elected to the presidency. Mrs. Karp-Toledo and I are in contact and will be having our interview shortly….
I have also interviewed Dr. Hugo Ludeña who is a prominent Peruvian scholar and archaeologist who is the director at one of the universities here in Lima. He is also a very passionate individual who took it upon himself to introduce me to most of the Anthropology and Archaeology department at the University. They were eager to impress me and kept implying that I should come back to work for them after graduation. We’ll just see about that.
I am also waiting to hear back from Yale University about a few pending interviews. I have been in contact with Enrique Ghersi who is Yale’s attorney
on this case. However, I am not allowed to talk to him without Yale’s consent, naturally. I also have an interview pending with the curator of the Peabody Museum of Yale where the artifacts are being held. I hope I can get an interview or two not only for my sake but also for Yale’s since my paper is a little one sided right now.
I really must say that I am enjoying my time in Lima working on this paper. I find the topic interesting and relevant and easy to write about. The best part of this is all of the freedom to explore and experience life here. Almost everyday I take the 45 min walk to the Ocean view overlook path at the edge of Miraflores. I can walk for hours along the ocean. Sometimes I hike down to the shore to watch the surfers other times I opt for just a nice bench up above. Several parks line the ocean side and one in particular is very striking and forward. Love Park is dedicated to lovers everywhere and usually attracts quite a few who are not afraid to show a little PDA. There is a giant
sculpture in the middle of the park called “El Beso” (The Kiss) and is of two lovers locked in a passionate kiss. All around it are walls in mosaic décor displaying many quotes of love and passion. It is a beautiful park; it’s no wonder why so many go there to simply be together.
While I would gladly walk around all day, I have to work on my paper for a good chunk of the day. My guilty pleasure has become Starbucks, and there are a million of them in this city. I can walk to four in under 40 mins which ultimately is good for me because that way I can alternate my cafes so that I don’t have to go to the same one everyday. I sit for hours drinking coffee while reading and writing; it is a 30 page paper in Spanish after all. It’s a wonderful life walking in the never-ending sunshine (it never rains in Lima) near the Pacific Ocean and chilling in Starbucks.
Great place this Lima, but it isn’t home. I’m looking forward to my return in only 2 ½ weeks!
PS> Found some more Semana Santa pics so here
they are too.
MISS YOU ALL but I’ll be seeing you soon!
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