Nazca Lines

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From Paracas Beach the drive to the site of the Nazca Lines was not far; maybe 250 km. drove along the Pan American highway yet again! Thru continued stretches of vast desert.

The Nazca Lines are world famous etchings hundreds of meters long in the Nazca Plain. Theories of their formation abound: extraterrestrials, pointers to water sources, astronomical calendars, adoration of the gods.

No one has the answer. Maria Reiche worked here for over 50 years trying to find an answer. I bought a book for S/30 to read about solutions.

On the way to Nazca, the town, we stopped along the road. A very tall tower has been erected. For S/ 1 you can climb to the top and view three line configurations. The lines on the earth and rock were created by scratching small stones to the side forming parallel lines. A thousand years of wind and sand have not obliterated them. The lines have not been cleaned or redrawn. The guide in the tower, who professed a love for Emily Bronte, said that because of the wind direction no great amount of sand collects here. There is no rain.

The lines are not attainable by foot. Walking among the lines is not allowed. The Lizard, one among the many animals depicted in cleared of rock lines, was destroyed when a highway was built thru the plain. The Lines were first discovered in 1926 during a flight over. One needs to wonder how they could not have known about the Lizard.

The lines are created by moving small volcanic debris rocks to two parallel sides. Because of the lime content in the sand the evening dew creates a cementing agent that keeps the stones in place. Because the rocks are volcanic they absorb heat during the day. As the heat rises it keeps the winds and the sand away from the lines.

The Maison Suisse is directly across from the Aeroporto. For $40 the plane flies over the Nazca Lines. The little plane that took us up into the sky was for five people plus the pilot. I sat in the front with the pilot. Every time the plane banked sharply to give a better view of the lines I had to close my eyes. Paul behind the pilot discreetly filled his plastic bag with throw up. I was able to look at all of the lines except the monkey. For that one the plane banked much too sharply for me to open my eyes.

To see the rest of the landscape was rewarding. The contrast between the mountains, the desert flats and the cultivated fields was a pleasure to the aesthetic eye.

After a lifetime of reading about the lines in magazines, novels and science fiction books I have seen the lines in person … not that I could take great pictures out of a banking plane thru glass … but buying postcards with professional shots taken excellent conditions is OK.

Paul was sick to his stomach every time the pplane banked hard to one side or another. I kept my eyes closed when the banking became to drastic. I did offer to be co-pilot but there was no steering wheel or pedals where I sat in the front with the pilot.

After a half hour the flight is over we come down to a safe landing. Tip the pilot! Walk away happy having attained one more of my life’s goals.

The one night tent stand today is at the Maison Suisse. It is a gated hotel with protected parking, numerous rooms and lawn for camping. Rooms cost S/40 but I suspect I misheard and it could possibly be $40. The restaurant is totally overpriced. From the limited menu I chose a cheese sandwich, mushroom soup and a coffee. The sandwich was a grilled cheese, the cheese not totally melted. The soup was a Knorr package and had never seen a champignon. The coffee was dreadful … so dreadful I chose to drink the instant truck coffee next morning. The bill came to S/26. That’s over $8. It did not taste like an $8 Peruvian lunch!! The Maison Suisse seems to cater to those tours that come with big fancy busses,lots of money, clean shoes and time to put on perfume!

A yellow www.budgetexpedition.com truck was already there when we arrived. That's their group lounging at the pool.

Sleeping on grass was pleasant.

Those of us who chose to go up in the small Cesnas packed up early and waited for our turn to fly. There was some delay in the departure.

We were finally on our way and rushing towards Lima. Suddenly we turned off the road, drove 7 km to an ancient grave site and got out to walk on scorging stand too view the mummies.

Mummies could be seen in depressions lined with rocks. The mummy is an important part of the belief of the indigenous. Mummies were kept in the home, ancestral worship being part of the belief. When going to war if one side captured an important mummy of the opposing side the engagement was as good as won.

The numbers of mummies on display under protective thatched roofs was impressive; possibly a hundred. A path lined in white rocks lead the way from one rocky hole to the other. The sand was terribly hot even while walking with shoes on. One large area was separated with rocks. In this area the bones of humans can be seen scattered all about.

After the 20 minutes allowed for this visit everyone was back on the truck, most were happy about being given the opportunity to view this spectacular presentation of ancient life. I certainly enjoyed the surprise stop.

Next stop Lima for five sleeps, Halloween and the Witches Market.

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Photos

Sanctioned Territory
Lines were discovered 1926. Highway built many years later. Why was the Lizard not seen?

Some Nazca Lines
This is the only shot I had time for. Was too busy trying not to fall out of the plane. Professional shots are so much better. I bought a book with all the lines and a good synopsis of the historyofthe area.