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Published: January 2nd 2007
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Nazca Lines - The Monkey
Look carefully - these are smaller than we expected. If you enlarge the photo the monkey should be visible. [
Nazca
Nazca is a couple of hours south from Ica. It has less than 2 cms rain fall a year and the town water supply comes nearly entirely from underground rivers and aqueducts, some of which were created by the Nazca people more than 1000 years ago! It’s on the tourist trail because of lines and shapes that cross the whole of the desert plateau.
The lines were created by the Nazca people (pre-Inca) by moving the red (iron rich) stones which exposed the light colour desert floor beneath them. The contrast is what you see. No one is quite sure why these lines were created - the theories range from alien landing strips (and this is supposed to be taken seriously), astronomic alignments, a map of the underground water supplies or possibly sites that were used in ancient rituals, used primarily to honour their gods. It is likely that the lines were created over a period of time (possibly 200 + years) and the reason for their creation might actually be a combination of one or many of these theories. Naera is a fan of the gods theory while Jem favors the underground water supply map.
Most archeologists agree
Nazca Lines - Up close and personal
This was taken from a hilltop and was the closest we were able to get to the lines (you aren´t allowed to walk on the pampa). It is the best photo we have of what the lines look like close up! that the actual creation is likely to have used a smaller scale model which was enlarged on the desert surface. The designs would have never been seen by the Nazca people (unless you believe that they could either 1. fly or as has been suggest 2. they used hot air balloons to survey their handiwork! We think both are unlikely!).
The animals (a condor, a hummingbird, a parrot, a tree, a set of hands or a frog (depending on who you agree with), a monkey) were all likely to have some sort of religious significance. For example, the monkey doesn’t exist in the desert (and never has) but lives in the mountains, where all of their water for Nazca comes from.
To view the lines, we took a plane trip (approx 30 mins) that flew 300 to 400 meters over the lines. Our guide suggested that we should aim to enjoy the flight, views and buy the postcards rather than waste our time trying to take photos and feeling sick. We managed to take a couple of shots before all the tight banking and rolling got to us.
We visited a Nazca cemetery which consisted of hundreds
Nazca Cemetary
These were preserved because of the natural dryness in the Nazca region. The bodies were effectively dried and the tombs protected them from damage. Recent exposure to the sun has meant that the skeltons deterated (and is the reason the bones are bright white in colour). of mummies buried in tombs (with their worldly belongings) sitting down, knees up against their chest facing the east for the morning sun. Due to it being so dry (the last significant rain fall was believed to have been in the last ice age) there is no humidity and as such the textiles (e.g. the cotton wrapping the mummies and their clothes) have been incredibly well preserved. Especially considering they are over a 1000 years old. There was a sad part to the trip, and its stands out a mile once it has been pointed out by the guides, is that grave robbers have been in droves and as a result there are human remains lilted across the sandy desert. The remains deteriorate quickly in the sun so the natural preservation of these people and all the discoveries we could make from them are disappearing fast!
We also visited the site which has 15 aqueducts. Little is known about how the Nazca people knew that there was significant underground water supplies - but the ducts and well that they created are still in use today!
It was a incredible culture and one which both of us were surprised
Mummies - and their dreadlocks!
This shows the mummies in their tombs. All were facing east (towards the rising sun). Grave robbers have looted the tombs but this picture shows some of the expected tomb contents. by. One thing we are both learning is the depth to Peruvian pre-Inca culture. The Incas were incredible - but so much of their success was discovering and using the intelligence of other cultures.
Arequipa and Canyon Country
Another bus south, inland and up about 2300 metres. It was our first overnighter - and what an experience! Unfortunately Naera didn’t quite have the guts to turn around and prod the guy who snored all night to convince him to roll over like she does with Jem! Still we arrived safe and sound, if a bit tired.
We spent Christmas Eve going around the museums in Arequipa. The best one by far was the Juanita Mummy museum (not surprisingly that isn’t it’s real name but if you ever been you’ll know the one we are talking about!). Children were offered to the gods by the Incas - and this mummy was found in the 90´s in the crater of the Ampato volcano. A erupting volcano near by had melted the ash which exposed Juanita (and caused her to fall into the crater). Because of the dry atmosphere and cold, the bodies were preserved in amazing condition - a
Santa Catalina Monasterio
Based in Arequipa - this was set up for the wealthy nuns (some of whom brought their own servants with them!) and is spectacular in size, architecture and colours! Here is a small sample of that! significant amount of damage is thought to have been done after Juanita fell as 1/2 of her body was exposed. The side lying in the ice, was still perfectly preserved (skin, nails, hair, clothes etc). She would have continued to deteriorate if undiscovered. Two other "lesser" offering were also found. They are considered lesser because they were further down the volcano and had few or smaller ornaments.
The museum is incredibly well laid out, starting with a short video and then you get a guide to take you around and explain everything.
We decided to celebrate New Zealand Christmas so we spoke to our parents mid-afternoon on Christmas Eve. We did this so we could head out on our canyon tour on Christmas day. The first day was quite subdued and involved us hoping on and off a bus, looking at some thing, taking some pictures and then hopping back on! We went for a short walk and ended up at the hot springs to revived us (they were lovely)!
The second day was slightly more difficult - another early morning but we were up to see the condors flying. These birds are endangered and incredibly majestic to watch.
Laundry Day for the Nuns
This is the laundry.
P.S. A new bishops to the town in the late 1800s caused a stink with the Nuns when he suggested that they should be limited to 1 servant each. He was promptly asked to resign. We were lucky enough to have 4 perch on a rock close to the viewing area. We also met our trekking guide here and headed down 1200 metres into the canyon (locals claim this canyon is the deepest in the world). With each step, Naera realised that each one down would equal one up. We trekked down for about 4 hours down and another 2 or 3 across the valley.
The next morning we trekked out of the canyon. The aiming being to catch the condors flying again! This meant that we started trekking at 2.45am (in the dark with torches!). Those of you who know Naera even vaguely well (apparently she doesn’t hide it well) will know she’s definitely not a morning person, nor is she particularly keen on exercise. So this mixture was interesting. Fortunately for Jem and the guide, I was asleep for the first hour - hour and a half (it was about 3.5 hours in total). Walking in the dark was quite psychologically interesting - you have no idea how far you have gone, how steep or what is in front of you.
We did get to see the condors again and then headed back
Resting Condors
These condors were perched about 5 metres from the viewing area and stayed for all of 5 mins. to Arequipa.
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