"There and Back Again" - The last trek...for now

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(apologies for the delay in getting this out, the cold Indiana weather has slowed my blood down)

Trek numero uno completed and under the belt I arrived back from the Colca Canyon trip with enough time to shower off the dust and reorganize the backpack before heading off for another bus station and another overnight bus. I was excited to see Scott and Britany and I'm not sure if it was that excitement or the squirming, squealing, smelling restless 10 year old kid squirming, squealing, and smelling next to me which contributed to a restless nights sleep on the semi-cama bus, hmm, just not sure what it was. Regardless, I arrived to Cuzco around 7 in the morning a little groggy and made my way to the hostal Home Sweet Home. (Gotta nice ring to it eh?)
Upon arriving at the hostal I baby spanish talk my way with the owner trying to ask about my two friends. As soon as I opened my mouth a duet of raucous and spirited voices erupted from the nearest room. "Lllluuuuuuccccaassssss!" A door swings open and out pops mi hobre Scott, silly grinning and arms wide open. It was a joyous reunion. However, fresh off a 12 hour bus I have to admit I was not quite prepared for their enthusiasm which was still rum flavored with the previous nights into the morning festivities. An hour later however and we were all matching strides down the narrow brick and cobblestoned streets of Cusco. Three amigos ready to cause some trouble, do some Machu Picchu trekking, and most importantly eat some breakfast!
Over breakfast we swapped stories, laughed at each others moments, and grinned at our amazingly timed trips still getting used to the fact that we are actually sitting across from one another. Scott is a rock, a Gibralter to be counted on and trusted in. Britany is a wrecking ball of positive energy, a force you want reckon with and, well, you all know how flat out awesome I am. 😊 We make a good tri-fecta. We discussed our Machu Pichhu options and settled on searching for the best pricing on a 5 day 4 night Salkantay trek. There are 7 trails to MP with some being more popular than others like the classic Inka Trail. The Salkantay trail is longer, a bit more challenging and therefore a little less traveled. We also opted to pay a bit more to keep our group smaller, capping it at 6 people as opposed to 12 or 15. We don't want anyone crimping our style you know. We recruited one other girl from our hostal, Merlyn from Holland (just like the wizard) and met the other couple, Lorenzo from Austria and Elenz from France, the morning of our departure.
First, lets backup and drop a little bit of knowledge about Cuzco. Cuzco was the capital of the ancient Inca empire, one of the greatest planned societies the world has known. Political structure, economical and data recording as well as construction of paved pathways allowed the Incas to conquer enormous territories and impose their spiritual and economical will upon the State. Today, Cuzco is a very charming city dotted with colonial churches, monasteries and pre-Columbian ruins amongst the countless bars, restaurants, and hotels. Inca stonework, characterized by the tapered upwards look, remains seen in walls, arches, and doorways throughout the city.
So that's a little about the city we are not going to be in for the next 5 days. Our trek has us beginning in an area called Molleplata. We are being safely led and healthily fed by our guide, Amarossa, and our horseman Henry and our cook William. (names subject for debate as well as the term 'horseman', they were mules afterall.) Our first day has us following old Inca trails and newer gravel roads all while slowly gaining elevation. Its lush and green highland scenery with small streams rushing down the steep sides and waterfalls of all shapes and sizes falling over rocks and earth. After a full day of hiking, almost 7 hours we begin to edge closer to our campsite. It is a covered outpost shrouded in a fog which settled in the valley as the daylight faded away. We were all a little damp and definitely tired. The covered shelter was a nice assurance that our first night camping would not be a wet one. As we were camped at the base of Salkantay mountain it was quite cold the first evening. I learned how much I love the sound of zippers as we didnt stay up late but got in the tents and cocooned ourselves into sleeping bags.
Roosters. Whether they carry a Thai passport or a Peruvian one, man do they suck. The rooster wake up call, which is never with the rising sun but hours ahead of it, rustled us out of our slumbers and our tents. We quickly forgot about the roosters and morning chill as our view had the sunrise licking the tops of majestic snowcapped mountains around us. Our guide Amarossa was not sure the previous night if we would see Salkantay in the morning due to the weather conditions but he was smiling in the morning.
After breakfast we began our ascent to the Huamantay Pass. The way is a channel carved by glaciers who left boulders in their wake dotting the green vegetation. Salkantay dominated the view the whole morning. It's snowy jagged peaks and mountain face still being carved underneath the remaining glacial ice.
The name 'Salkantay' is from Quechua (a Native South American language) meaning wild, uncivilized, savage or invincible and the name is often translated as 'Savage Mountain'. Viewed from Machu Picchu's main sundial, the constellation the Southern Cross is above Salkantay's summit when at its highest point in the sky during the rainy season. The Incas associated this alignment with concepts of rain and fertility, and considered Salkantay to be one of the principal deities controlling weather and fertility in that region. We got the rain part, but left the fertility to another group.
We reached the pass and took our photos, took our time, and took in Pachamama's beauty (Inca term for mother earth). After our break we headed down the other side making our way for Santa Teresa valley. The gradual slope, also carved out by glaciers and strewn with its leftover rocks was some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever scene. Wide open views down the valley blanketed with short green grass, free running streams, dotted with boulders, lined with grazing horses, mules, sheep, and backdropped by Salkantay and blue skies was overwhelmingly serene. After lunch we all fell victim to the soft, thinly grass covered ground and, hmm, aww, yaaaaaawwwnnnnnnn cat napped in the warm sunshine.
The sunshine eventually gave way to rain and the path narrowed giving way to all new types of forest vegetation as the elevation decreased with each step down into the valley. It became wet, became a little muddy but at last we made it to our campsite, a yard amongst some small houses, huts, and pens for animals. We camped along side another group that night and, as the backpackers trail should have it, was my first meeting with the girls Lizzie and Patricia who would be on the same bus with us a few days later and who I would buddy up with in Lima for a day and a half.
More hiking the next day but the hardest parts were behind us. We hiked along the roaring white water river Santa Teresa for much of the day, which turned out to be more of a half day before jumping into a van for the last hours journey to the small town of Santa Teresa. It should be noted and since we're all adults here AND since it was a small sign of things to come that there was a time that day where #2 could not be delayed any longer. Yes, I'm speaking of that #2. Simply stated, who thinks of using bug spray in a time like this? Protect your "moon"!
Since it was only a half day we were not too beat and I doubt we would turn down a trip to a hot springs anyways so we soon found ourselves at a spot along the river where a hot spring pools. We were the first ones there so we were the first ones to buy beer from the 7 year old selling them. More trekkers made their way down and pretty soon it was quite full. At one point, I stand up to tell my infamous Wal-mart Story. It's not a long story, incredible yes, but I can wrap it up in 5 minutes these days. Well, while I'm changing the course of human story telling history yet again I am also silently being heavily targeted by those kamikaze sand flies. I didn't see them, I couldn't feel them but boy did I get'em, bites, lots of them. It seems also that my skin reacts a little more to these bites than other types of bites and, well, again, best for the picture to tell the story. Between my back and my butt I looked like a red paintball shooting target, I'm just saying.
That evening after dinner we had a visitor to our card game, a sugar addicted monkey. The little fella swooped in on our table snatching handfuls of sugar as he pleased. We named him Tweaks in anticipation of the sugar rush to come. Tweaks did not disappoint as his energy level as well as friendliess increased. He liked us so much he came with Scott and I to the local trekking discotheque in the small town. We lost him upon walking in the door, more than likely the little fella wanted to cut a rug on the dancefloor. Occasionally we would see Tweaks arm locked on someones wrist. Apparently Tweaks ended up in jail later that evening, I'm serious. Amarossa received a call in the middle of the night asking if we all made it back which we did. Tweaks didn't make it back. He spent the night in jail armlocked on a trekker who apparently broke a window or something. Oh Tweaks, you crazy lil monkey.
The next day, Day 4, had us making the final approach to Machu Picchu and into the town Aguas Caliente. It was another beautiful day for a hike. The temperature was warmer and the previous days trekking was wearing on us, but we were all in high spirits. We hiked along the Humbumba river up to the Hydro electric station where we could catch our first views of Machu Picchu way up high. After lunch we followed the railroad which wraps through the valley and into Aguas Caliente. It offered us many views of MP and our excitement was growing. This afternoon also had us hauling our main backpacks which the mules were previously carrying so we were pretty beat upon finally arriving in town.
Aguas Caliente soley exists as a launch pad for the tourists into Machu Picchu. Lots of restaurants, hotels, and souvenir shops crowd in on each other. Restaurant workers literally will swarm you in the street offering you free this and free that if you eat at their place over the other 3 people who are in your face saying the same thing. Just tell me who will offer me the most free beer! Is it that difficult?
So after a group pow-wow it is bed time, one of those head hit the pillows and instantly asleep nights. Just before the sleep hit though there was a brief prayer, finally, I made it to Machu Picchu. The beginning of my trip seems like eons ago but there we were a few hours sleep and trek away from one of the Wonders of the World. Sleeping and smiling ahhhh.
I wasn't smiling for long as two men arguing outside our door woke us all up. Once they finished their girlish bickering (I couldn't understand them but surely it was over something silly and pointless) the rains came. Steady rain on tin roofs sound like you're standing beneath a waterfall and at 4 am when we began walking to Machu Picchu it was coming down like one too. It eased up as we got to the Inca stairs and began the ascent to the ancient citadel 2,380 m above sea level.
We were the first ones to the top and first ones in line making our guide Amarossa happy. It was our time baby. It also happened to be the 27th anniversary of the site becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They had a brief flag raising ceremony before opening the doors to the growing throng of tourists.
You cannot help but be in awe upon first witnessing Machu Picchu. Just as the book is always better than the movie, the real thing is much bigger, much more dramatic and more real than any picture. Amarossa gave us a brief tour of the place before having to catch his own train home, leaving us to our day. We explored, contemplated, stared in wonder and strolled the vast city in the clouds which the Spanish conquistadors never discovered nor knew about. For centuries this place was buried in the jungle until Hiram Bingham stumbled upon it in 1911. You marvel at the architecture, the stone work, the thought of all that stone being cut, the terraces, the staircases, the towers, the temples, everything! Simply amazing.
We climbed Huayna Picchu, the mountain overlooking the site and had breaks in the rising fog and mists to behold the wonder below. The weather turned and dampened our clothes, I guess soaked is more like it, but not our spirits and still offered us breath taking views. You can rain on us, but not our figurative parade.
Soaked we headed back into town where we mustered up the least smelly, muddy and dry clothes we had. We negotiated with a restaurant and got a free beer pending us each ordering a large pizza per person at almost 50% off. Not a slice was left behind.
Eventually we gathered up our bags and caught our train back to Cuzco. The four of us, Merlyn included, went out even though it was late, for food, drinks and the longest unfinished Uno card game this side of the Equator.
Scott, Britany and I all had the same bus out of Cuzco the next afternoon. We did a little souvenir shopping, xmas shopping and Guinea Pig shopping. Turns out you need to reserve ahead your guinea pig (coi) so we were not able to taste those american friendly pets. We said goodbye to Merlyn, wishing her well with her remaining 8 months of travel (8 months!) and headed for the bus station.
Scott and Britany were headed to Lima, homeward bound whereas I still had 5 days. I was on the same bus but I was getting off in Ica where I'd catch a cab to the nearby town of Huachachina, famous for its huge sand dunes and sandboarding. On the bus we celebrated our time together with a bottle, er, box of wine before snoozing away the evening. Oddly enough we all had somewhat similar dreams filled with colors, strange images and Inca shamans dancing or singing or playing the flute. The magic and influence of Machu Pichuu I guess.
I cannot begin to stress how wonderful it was and how grateful I am to have been able to spend the highlight of my trip with Scott and Britany. Everything worked out just the way it was suppose to and it was beautiful. It was an odd feeling saying goodbye and going back on my own. We talked a lot about what we'll do when we get back home and while home was a plane ride away for them I still had a few more days to focus on. So we said goodbye, but with friends it is never ever "goodbye", more like "see you later".
I spent the day relaxing by the pool in Hauchachina before joining a dune buggy sandboarding trip in the afternoon. The dune buggy ride is a jarring thrill ride across the desert sand dunes. Lots of fun. The sandboarding was pretty sweet but I'll stick to the white stuff. Plus, sand just gets everywhere! Yes, I had my share of little wipeouts.
The activity director guy at the hostal took me and the 3 girls who were in my dorm room out to his favorite local restaurant spot that night. We sucked down the local favorite Pesco Sours before going out to the discotheque. I was poolside again the next day trying to rid myself of the farmers tan and get as much sun before the dreaded winter weather of Indiana hits me.
Later in the afternoon I jumped a bus headed for Lima and for my last 3 days, the homestretch. I headed to Loki Hostal where the girls we met on the trek and who were on our bus said they were staying. We hung out in the lounge with everyone that night and made plans for lunch the next day.
Holy ceviche batman! Lunch the next day was delicious! Fresh seafood is a Lima speciality and that starts with the lime juice and onion loaded ceviche dish. Octopus, white bass, scallops you name it I ate it. So, so, good. Back at the hostal I got my English Premier Football updates from Lizzie and another football fan Liam while watching Arsenal take on Man. U. Lizzie and I then slugged thru some of the worst pool games ever. I hung out with a couple from Oregon that I met the night before and set up a lunch date with them at the same place for the next day, and then we all went out dancing in a heavily loaded laser light club. As we were pretty much the only people there, the dance floor was ours.
The next day I ordered the same thing at lunch again, the company was the only thing different. Tom and his gf Fallon and I kicked it that afternoon before I met up with a distant family friend who happens to live in Lima.
And now for the big finish and the last installment of this trips "Deep Moments with Travelin' Laluke"...No doubt, traveling is good for the soul. At its root, travel is a freedom. It's a freedom to make mistakes, to stumble and fall in order to learn how to pick yourself up. It's test of character, a test of patience, a test of free will and of self control. Different people travel for different reasons, the timing of events in our lives propelling us along our life journey. For me, this travel experience was about learning, reconfirming, strengthening and growing, building upon each one day after day. Faith, love, personality, energy, outlook on life, plan for the future and more all were tested, reconfirmed, strenghtened and are different than 6 weeks ago.
I'm grateful for all the people I met along the way. Traveling is about the places you see yes, but in larger, life changing ways the people you meet leave the longer lasting imprint, a permanent fingerprint on your life experience. There's a lesson with everything and traveling can be viewed as a microcosm for much of life happening much faster and in varying degrees. Plans change, deal with it. You lose possesions, get over it, they are only material things. People enter into your life and then you have to let them go. Be grateful, remember the good, forgive the bad, cherish the experience.
It's been an amazing 6 weeks...I cannot say if it's gone by fast or slow, I guess just one awesome moment at a time. One thing that has gone by is my due date for laundry. Phheeeeww! I must say though, everything I packed I used more than once, yep, pretty pleased with my pack job. Oh wait, nope, I lied, the Immodium AD, I did not have to use that. Now that is a good trip isn't?
Thanks for blogging along with me. Traveling is awesome, go get you some.

"Stars hide your fires, these here are my desires and I will give them up to you this time around and so I'll be found with my stake stuck in this ground marking the territory of this newly empassioned soul"

Roll Away Your Stone ~ Mumford & Sons

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Photos

First thing I see upon waking up
Way been than Roosters that's for sure.

I think you could count upwards of 50
not including, legs or the 'moon'

Ceviche Lunch with Patrcia & Lizzie
there was a guy, not pictured, who recommended these dishes for us who looked EXACTLY like Shrek, minus the green. Should've got a pic, dang it.