Cusco and the Sacred Valley

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Nicola: For most of our trip we have been seeing places in the off-season. It has meant the weather hasnt always been great but the tourist sights havent been as busy and things have generally been cheaper. However, at the moment Peru´s high season is just getting under way. Hotels and bus comapnies put up their prices which is annoying but it also means there are hundreds of fantastic festivals and celebrations going on.
We have been really lucky that every Sacred Valley village that we have wandered into has had some brilliant, loud and colourful dancing going on. It all started in Cusco when we arrived on tuesday after our long bus ride. We were sitting in the Plaza Armas enjoying a drink in the sun when hoards of toddlers descended on the square. 90 per cent of them were dressed in stunning outfits which were just so colourful they lit up the whole square. From what I could work out they were marching about primary school education, but whether it was for or against it I am not sure!! All of the children were so adorable, marching and dancing along - it was fantastic.
From Cusco we obviously went to Machu Picchu, at the bottom of which is the town of Aqua Calientes. I am not going to pretend this is a beautiful town, it is actually heart-breaking that those in charge have allowed massive concrete buildings to be put up so close to a wonder of the world but there we go. But again after we had visited MP we found the main square in Aqua Calientes full of dancers wearing (in some cases quite frightening) masks, and head dresses based on the Inca Gods, doing amazing performances accompanied by a band of trumpets and whistles to mark the Carmen festivities. As legend goes she was a woman who sailors told their tales to when they returned from the sea. Again this is an explanation I have gleaned from the Spanish placards so I am sure it is more in depth than that.
While seeing MP we stayed in the pretty village of Ollantaytambo which is think is my favourite Sacred Valley village that we have seen. It is really quaint, surrounded by hills full of Inca Ruins and agricultural steps. It is really refreshing to come to a country where the traditional dress and customs have not been lost and only bought out for the tourists. In this part of the world the people wear fantastic tall hats, big skirts, carry their children in colourful blankets on their backs not because they want to have their picture taken by tourists - far from it - it is just their way of life.
On our way back from Ollantaytambo we stopped off in Pisac because it was market day. Again the main square was thronging to the sounds of drums and trumpets and more dancers took to the stage for the festival. We managed to find a cafe to have a drink in with a balcony which overlooked the celebrations. As well as the dancing there were fantastic food stalls set out selling huge plates of potatos, meat and of course guinea pig. We havent been brave enough to try this yet but we will, maybe as our last Peruvian meal!!

Neil

The sacred valley provides a stunning backdrop to the various villages Nic mentioned above. Based in the Andes - most of the villages are around 2000 - 2500 metres with the walls of the valley rising upwards to form sharp rocky peaks - some covered in snow. Most of the valley is farmland and farm buildings and dwellings built from mud bricks - all the familys are dressed in traditional Peruvian dress and live in quite basic conditions. Cusco is the largest settlement in the sacred valley - and was founded by the Incas. Today its all about tourism and is most visitors first stop in the sacred valley on their way to Maccu Picchu. It a really pretty city in the centre, with cobbled streets and various churches and pretty buildings.

Although our time in Peru has been fairly brief, its certainly a great country to visit from what we've seen so far - perfect for the backpacker. Food and accomodation is really cheap and there is plenty to do and see. It's a shame we have to leave as there is so much more of Peru that we'd like to see. We'll be back.

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