A History Lesson in Machu Picchu

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We woke for the sunrise, but it wasn't the sun that we wanted to see, it was what the sun was illuminating. With our backs to the heat, we watched the city awaken. The cold dark stones slowly warmed into a living city. The slabs of rocks evolved into living rooms, bedrooms, an empire. Silence was broken only by the waking birds and the grazing llamas eating their breakfast of grass grown in ancient soil. Were we really here? Were we really a part of this morning's moment in a place so well-known and so well-preserved? Taking photos at times such as these almost feels, well, sinful. We walked through kanchas (apartments for the extended family of royalty) and temples, through fields that once were filled with all sorts of garden goodness. To think that until 1911, this place was completely covered in forest, and that no one knew it existed, is almost unbelievable!
Machu Picchu was, in reality, much different than I had expected it to be. Yes, it looked just like all the pictures in the postcards, but these ruins emanated life. Though it is quite large, the city feels sort of intimate and you can trick yourself into believing that you hear the patter of children's feet racing over the stones, the soft conversation of the priests in the temples. This is not a normal archeological site.
We walked through Machu Picchu's wonders and felt the history of Peru suddenly become more real. I lifted my arm from my side, and drug my fingers over the creases in the stones, so well preserved that it almost appears and feels like modern craftsmanship. Each stone was so purposefully placed atop the other in such an intentional fashion. The edges of the doorways and the curves of the chiseled rocks; everything was so smooth! The doorways and windows were constructed as trapezoids, not in the standard rectangle. The city's 80,535 acres exist at an altitude of 8038ft. It extends from a luscious mountainside, but somehow has withstood the test of time much better than the mansions built on our own Malibu cliffs. Machu Picchu was built as a matter of pride and showmanship, an ancient country club in the middle of lush green and at an elevation that provided escape from normal civilization.
It is said that after the Spaniards' arrival, the Inca and Spanish fought in this area for a very bloody eight months. The native people put up a most terrible fight for their beloved city, which had not even come to its completion.(Un-built portions of Machu Picchu still lay in rubble at the outskirts of the urban center.) It is also said by archeologists that Machu Picchu was really more of a resort town for the elite, than an "every day" pueblo. From the mummies that were discovered on the grounds, it is estimated that 80% of the city's inhabitants were women, probably the most beautiful woman were chosen to be inhabitants of such a prestigious place. To protect the city's elite population, there was a moat built that surrounded the main area. Water still gently flows in small steams alongside and under the petite stairways that so gracefully curve around the buildings. Llamas graze in the courtyards, small birds perch themselves on window ledges, the grass is still a delicious bright green, and water is seen and heard in almost every corner of the city. ( Perhaps the Spaniards are watching us from the surrounding forest, hiding in the trees during the day and reclaiming the city at night. For this place to have been deserted for so long, feels more like a silly wife’s tale than the truth.) Griff and I have been to much older archeological sites, but there is just something about the completeness of Machu Picchu that is hauntingly magnificent. You can feel the pride of the city settle right down into your own person, seeping into your spirit.
Lifting our eyes to the mountains, we can see the outlines of structures towering high above us, almost as if hanging off the edges of a cliff. It is the Sun Temple perched on top of Wyna Picchu, and once spotted, the dilemma is whether to look around your person and continue to take in your surroundings, or to divert your eyes upward, and wonder at what is peering down from the tree-covered heavens. The sun tower has its intended effect. It was considered a holy place, and only priests were allowed to tread its paths and worship in its buildings. Not many tourists make it up to the Sun Temple, because the hike up is more time consuming than most tours allow, and quite strenuous. I had a pretty bad cold, which had caused my asthma to act up, but I knew that even if it took hours to get there, we had to make that trek to discover the temple up-close.
As we headed up the mountain, we began to see the late-morning tourists trickle in like ants to sugar. How lucky we'd been to have experienced Machu Picchu in all of its silent morning glory. The trek up was indeed all that we had been warned it would be, but the beauty that confronts you between each huff and puff, makes the exertion worth while. "I am walking the same path that ancient priests walked. I am hovering above a royal and exclusive city that used to be filled with lounging, and parties, and music, and laughter!" Towards the top, the path leads through a narrow short cave, and after squeezing through one at a time, you can pull yourself up a wooden ladder to the tip-top of it all, and a perfect 360 degree view unfolds in front of you. You are literally treated to a most royal view.
The trip down from the temple is mentally much more taxing than the way up. There are hundreds of uneven stone steps made for the tiny feet of the Incans, not the gigantic feet belonging to me! You take each step very slowly, for there is nothing to grab on to in case of a slip, and the fall is a long, long way! The image of my friend, Heather's, little boy came to mind. Before I left home, he was learning how to conquer steps, and he looked so focused and determined...and silly. And though in this moment my problem was exactly the opposite of a child's (they are too small for taking stairs, whereas I was so obviously too large!), I sympathized with little Zain's evident awkwardness as I taught myself how to conquer my own set of stairs.
We reached the bottom, feeling privileged and tired, and strolled around a bit more. There were so many more people here now, and I began to feel a little grudge as I stepped aside for tour groups to pass and rubbed shoulders with strangers from all over the world. They had invaded my magic city and stolen my solitude! Maybe this was a tiny taste of how the Incas felt about the Spaniards...a tiny one.
It is a little funny and a lot ironic that our next destination after Peru, is Spain. Throughout Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, and Peru, we have seen over and over again the effects of the Spaniards pillage of South America. It is, of course, a part of every nation's sad history isn't it…the native peoples invaded by the more "advanced" and "equipped" societies, with intent to convert, or steal, or re-train.
As I looked at what was around me, this masterpiece of architecture and craft, I can imagine it being my refuge, my holy place, the place I have been fortunate enough to raise my children in! But, I struggle to imagine looking up over the crest of the city, to see the enemy on horseback at my gate. Even the best buildings of the time could not withstand the war plans of the Spanish. No armor could protect them from Spanish bullets, and so their beloved Machu Picchu would fall into the hands of the conquerors.
I shake my head and breathe a sigh of relief. I am sure glad that unjust slaughtering of innocents no longer occurs. I am enlightened by the knowledge that no blood is being shed by any country that I am a part of- especially for something as silly and selfish as a well- constructed city, or religious conversion, or...say...oil. I am proud that I belong to a country that has taken a strong stand against crimes committed against entire communities such as forceful conversion from one religion to another, or ethnic cleansing. (Huh? Hundreds of thousands dead in Africa? Did I hear you correctly President Bush, because I thought you mumbled something that sounded like, "genocide"?) It is moments like this one in Machu Picchu- it is these traveling experiences-when I am so far from home, that I can gain a different perspective... and boy, it is during these first-hand experiences, that I am the proudest to be an American and delighted by the reputaion we have made for ourselves.
I am excited to see Spain- isn't everyone? The magnificent churches and museums! The Sangria and the vineyards! The gold! The grandness! And of course, that ocean...those coastlines that allowed access to the world beyond. Those boundless rainbows of the Mediterranean and Atlantic waters, which ended in the gold of the Americas!
What would be different now, had the Spanish ceased their invasions, and found other ways to beautify their palaces, instead of using someone else's natural resources?
(What would be different now, had the North Americans found other ways to run their cars, instead of using someone else's natural resources?)
I certainly cannot make assumptions as to the drastic differences that would exist in world politics, tourism, and economics, had the Spanish just settled at good-enough and used their own intellect, and their own “stuff” to build their empire, but it’s interesting to think on. Oddly, from what we have seen in South America, there seems to be no grudge held against Spain for their past sins. Let's hope for the same forgiveness.
Griff and I were talking the other day about the United States and how very young it is. Our country has that sort-of comfy new-house feel to it. (And, we can rest-assured that the deed to our house was obtained through legal and legitimate methods....did you say something again? I thought I heard you mutter something about disease-ridden blankets for the natives... something about Indian Reservations?) But most countries have a much longer history than ours, and this was never more evident than my time in Peru, within the walls of Machu Picchu and flying over the Nazca lines. (See photos and descriptions for more on Nazca.)
At one point my country, which contrary to how it may seem, I do love, will have this much history behind it. How will we fill-in the time between then and now? What will be written about our actions in the "History" section of backpacker's guidebooks? When things settle down in the middle-east, and tourism is back in swing (Lord willing),will tour guides scan the audience for North Americans, and guard their words in the telling of the history of a Middle Eastern landmark? Our guide asked if there were any Spaniards in the group, while we were touring Machu Picchu, in an effort to "soften" their embarrassment when the history of the sight was re-told.
I hope and pray the best for my beloved United States, but being abroad has allowed me the opportunity to see us through the eyes of others, and I am often ashamed. So, what am I doing to change history? Am I even truly aware of how I can do such a thing? Do I know what is happening in my world or even in my neighborhood?...Sigh.... but my new house is just so comfortable! It's hard to want to go outside my figurative picket fence and find out about the hungry people sleeping on the streets, or the under-funded school in the ghetto, or (GASP!) the ethnic group that lives on the opposite side of town!
It's all metaphorical of course, but one just can't help to evaluate their present when they are placed smack-dab in the middle of someone else's past, as we were in Machu Picchu.


Beneath my surface a song is rising, it may be simple while it hides its true intent
We may be looking for our deliverance but it has already been sent-
It's in the night fall when the light falls,and what you've seen isn't there anymore
It's in our blind trust that love will find us, just like it has before.

They're sending soldiers to distant places-X's and O's on someone's drawing board
Like green and plastic but with human faces, and they want to tell you it's a merciful sword
But with all the blood newly dried in the desert...
Can we not fertilize the land with something else?
There is no nation by God exempted, lay down your weapons and love your neighbor as yourself!

In the night fall when the light falls, and what you've seen isn't there anymore
It's through our blind trust that love will find us, just like it has before

-Indigo Girls

P.S. As an unrelated request, I thought I would put this out there...
Griff and I are headed to Spain for a little less than two weeks, and then on to Eastern Europe. As of now, we will probably narrow it down to Greece, Turkey, Czech Republic, and Romania. We would love, love, love to spend some time in a Romanian orphanage helping out in whatever capacity is needed. If anyone knows of missionaries or a humanitarian group that works in this field, we would love to connect with them! Please feel free to pass on any info to my email: [e-mail]
Thanks!
P.P.S. While in Spain we will not be checking email or updating the guest book. PLEASE don't let that stop you from leaving us a message, we will publicly post them in a week or two!

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Photos

Nazca
A Cesna plane took us up and over the Nazca Lines, in a tunny-turning flight full of wing-tip turns and sweeps over the desert!

Can you see the SPIDER?
Nobody knows exactly why the Nazca people decided to make these lines, but some people think they were attempting to appease the gods in order to send rain, while others feel they were a type of map pointing in the direction of water sources. Just maybe they were a means of communicating with aliens, and could even be the resulting tracks from numerous spaceship landings.

Hummingbird
The Nazca Lines cover 100s of square kilometers of desert, and depict dozens of figures and thousands of geometric shapes. Because of the almost nonexistent rainfall, these lines, which were formed by removing the sun-darkened rocks, will virtually remain on the landscape forever.

In the Airplane
The plane flew at about 500 meters, but followed a route with many turns that were so tight that we had little blood left in our brains.

Comments

[Linda]

Hi my kids! Oh how we miss you but love traveling with you! God is truly blessing you both in ways that may even surprise you! Here's some info from a friend regarding Romania... heart2heartint.org or [e-mail]...see if those help...We love you both and pray for your health, safety and your growth! love, linda

[Lisa]

I still can't believe you're out there doing this! It's great that you went and followed your dreams. PS Darlyn has been reading well lately during our group time. She is really motivated. I thought you would like to know... We miss you a lot over here in HP. lisa

[Martha]

Too high for comfort!
I'm glad I got to see Machu Pichu through your eyes. What awesome images but with the way I feel about heights, the chances I see them firsthand are pretty slim. My stomach was turning just seeing you guys sitting on edge of the rock. Thanks for taking me there! Miss you guys!