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Published: June 22nd 2009
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We arrived in Cusco a few days before we were due to start the Inca trail to meet Tracy's friend Liz. For the next three days, as we acclimatized to the altitude, we explored Cusco's markets, churches and old Inca ruins, whist visiting the occasional bar and having one or two beers on the sun drenched balconies overlooking the main square. Liz was brave enough to try roasted guinee pig which was served complete with tiny claws and tortured facial expression. Tracy opted for Chinese crispy guinee pig pancakes!
The day we started the Inca trail we awake early and climbed into a bus which took us to the town of Ollantaytambo for breakfast. After pancakes and coca tea we brought a couple of walking sticks and a big bag of coca leaves to give us an energy boost on the hike. Then we made our way to the official check-in point for the Inca trail to begin our four day trek.
The first section of the Inca trail is a path running along the river and as the sun shone we walked and talked and enjoyed the scenery. About two hours into the walk we encountered our first
Inca ruins. Looking down from the trail we were walking allowed us to see show far we had climbed, but it also made us think about how much higher we had to go.
We continued to walk and talk and enjoy the scenery. As the sun began to set we made it to our first campsite where our tents had already been setup by the porters who were carrying all the equipment. After an amazing dinner and a quick briefing on what the next day would involve (another early start) we all went to bed.
The second day was supposed to be the hardest because we would be walking up all day to get to the highest point of the trek. We set off just after sunrise. The climb began almost straight way with a mixture of stone steps and earth path. The great breakfast we were feed before leaving gave us energy for an hour or two but as the path became steeper and the higher altitude made breathing harder, the coca leaves came out, which really made a difference.
No matter how hard we found the climb, it was impossible for us to complain because
our porters were working ten times harder and always smiling (they were chewing coca leaves too). It was so impressive to see the porters running past us carrying twenty kilos of kit whist we were walking painfully slow with just a tiny day pack on our backs.
As the day wore on we continued our walk up, until we finally made it to the highest point called dead women's pass. The view down the path we had walked as stunning and by walking twenty meters to the other side of the peak we could see down the path we had to walk to get to our second campsite.
A brief rest, and some more coca leaves, enabled us to continue down from dead women's pass. I thought that climbing up was bad but going down was much worse. The irregular steps meant that you had to constantly watch where you were stepping for fear of twisting your ankle.
We arrived at the second campsite just before sunset but because it was at the bottom of a valley it was already in shade and so very cold. That night would be the coldest of the trek.
The
third day was described as the most unforgettable day. Looking up from the bottom of the valley at the stairway we had to climb that morning and wondering how I would do it is something I will not forget in a hurry. But once we were on our way it was not so bad. The stone staircase lead to an Inca look-out point which provided great views down the valley and as we made our way further up the look-out became part of the amazing scenery.
Once we made it out of the valley and onto a mountain peak our guide gathered us together to perform a Andean ceremony to the mountains. We chose three of the most perfect coca leaves (there were still a few left) held them up to the four points of the compass, which coincided with four mountains, made a wish and blow it to the gods living in the snowy peaks. Our guide then played us a tune on his flute and gave us an insight into the Andean religion.
From the top, down, the landscape changed considerably. And Andean landscape became cloud forest and all the mountain sides were covered in lush
green foliage. The temperature and humidity rose too. We walked along Inca paths and staircases and through Inca tunnels.
As we made our decent to the third campsite we walked through an Inca observatory and passed Inca farming terraces.
Once we arrived at our third campsite, after a very long downward path, we were able to have hot showers and buy beer. I have to admit that I skipped the hot shower in favour of the cold beer. Much more refreshing.
The fourth and last day of our trek was the earliest one. By 05:30 we were at the check-in and walking up to the sun gate via a very narrow stone walkway. We reached the sun gate before sunrise and got our first view of Machu Picchu . As the sun rise the shadow covering Machu Picchu moved down the mountain to revel the stone city in all it's detail.
To reach Machu Picchu we walked around the mountain side down on stone walkway and finally made it to the flat terraces and manicure lawns, much to everyone's relief.
Although we were tired after walking for four days we found enough energy to walk
around the amazing city of stone, perched on the top of a mountain. The stone walls fitted together with perfection and as our guide explained the different houses, temples and royal chambers the ancient city came to life.
After wandering the cities streets for a few hours we made our way down into the small town of Aguas Calientes and soaked our tired legs in the hot springs.
With the Inca trail over we headed back to the town of Ollantaytambo on the morning train and ended up with a carriage all to ourselves. We ran from window to window sticking our heads out, taking pictures and enjoying the scenery.
Once back in Cusco we meant up with our Inca trail group once more for a few drinks and a final rendition of Kegen's Guinee Pig Face (GPF).
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Kev
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Ahhh..
....brings back happy memories. Did you have to provide the porters with "entertainment"? On the last morning of our trek we were up at 5.00 and had to sing a song for the porters. The only thing we could think of was the Oke Koke. So there we were 5am on top of a Peruvian mountain putting our left leg in, left leg out, etc..... A bizarre experience ! Enjoy....