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When we arrived at the bus terminal in Cuzco we were mobbed by taxi touts trying to get our custom. After getting a couple of seconds in which to check the name of the hotel we'd been recommended we finally got in a taxi and were completely ripped off by being charged over 3 times the going rate (as we later found out)!
The recommended hotel (thanks José!), Cuzco Plaza I, was lovely and we were given a very nice room with a view over the city.
Of course, our main reason for being in Cuzco was to visit the world famous Inca ruins of Machu Picchu.
We originally intended to do the 4 day Inca trail but were disappointed to find out that even with three months advance notice there were no permits available. The idea of permits was introduced a few years ago by the Peruvian government in an attempt to reduce the number of people taking the hike to Machu Picchu and eroding the trails.
Anyway, this meant we'd have to join the rest of the tourists on the train that runs to the little village of Aguas Calientes (aka Pueblo Machu Picchu),
the village located nearest the ruins themselves.
Having arrived late in the afternoon on our first day we only had time to visit the tourist office and get the necessary details on how to get to Machu Picchu.
So, early on the second day Av headed off to the main train station to buy our tickets (in Dollars) to Aguas Calientes, which was easy. But we also needed entrance tickets to Machu Picchu which can only be purchased from the cultural admin offices. So Av headed across town, on foot, to get these too only to find that after queuing for an age, and some, they could only be paid for in Peruvian Soles, of which he didn´t have enough.
So, initially trying to save time Av had in fact wasted a good couple of hours traipsing around Cuzco and queuing! Harrassed to say the least Av returned to the hostel to join Suzz and get a bank card, before both heading off to an ATM and then back to those dreaded admin offices, finally getting our hands on those tickets!
With the rest of the day to spare we stopped for lunch at a café
near the main square - Machu Picchu Grill - where it took us over an hour to be served, before deciding to head down to the bus station to buy our tickets for our next destination in a few days time. However, on the way we managed to take a wrong turning and found ourselves walking in a rather unsavoury part of town! Fortunately we didn't come to any harm and eventually managed to find our way to the bus station.
Returning to the city centre by taxi (this time being charged the correct amount) we then took a walk around the city itself, as there are some remains of the original Inca city walls to see, along with several churches and old, colonial buildings.
The next day and it was an early start to catch the 7am train to Aguas Calientes. We boarded the train at about 6.40am and pulled out of the station on time, rattling and rolling along in a rickety old carriage. Then, after only 5 minutes the train stopped and started going backwards. All the scenery looked the same so we assumed that there must've been a problem or that someone had been
left behind (although it's unlikely they'd go back for them!). We didn't seem to reach the station before the train stopped and started on it's way once more. However, after another 5 minutes or so, we stopped and started going backwards again. It was only after the 3rd time of doing this that we realised we were making several switch backs in order for the train to get up the hill and out of Cuzco!!
Four hours and a pretty rough ride later (although the scenery was great) we reached our destination of Aguas Calientes. Disembarking from the train we had to walk through another artesan's market in order to get into the little village, where we found some accommodation for the night (note I didn´t say suitable!) in a hostel where the rooms had no windows!
Having settled in to our cell, we decided that before grabbing some lunch we should buy our bus tickets to Machu Picchu for early the next morning to ensure that we arrive in time for the sunrise. With the tickets safely in hand we then walked over to the high street where we had lunch whilst watching the trains go by!
In the afternoon we took another walk to the top of the town to visit the local hot springs, where we spent an hour or so relaxing in the hot pools, which although hot were not that clear. We are still debating whether it´s the minerals that make the water murky or the locals washing in them!! Nonetheless, it´s a tranquil setting with the Rio Urubamba rushing down the mountain parellel to the springs.
Up early the following morning for our bus at 5.30am and a little while later we were heading through the gates of Machu Picchu. We'd heard that the best place to see the sunrise was from Intipunku, the Sun Gate, which is where people entering from the 4 day Inca Trail get their first sighting of the ruins, so we wasted no time and headed straight there. Unfortunately the weather wasn't in our favour and there was a lot of low cloud and mist throughout the valleys surrounding us which meant we weren't able to see the sun come up, or much else for that matter. However, after making it to Intipunku and meeting some very weary hikers coming in the opposite direction, we
waited in the hope that the mists would clear and give us the view we'd been waiting for. We were lucky - for just a couple of minutes there was a tiny clearing in the clouds, revealing Machu Picchu! A round of applause and a cheer greeted this awesome site (which must've been even more worthwhile for those that had slogged it through 4 days of hiking)!
As the "Inca Trailers" slowly made their way past Intipunku and along the path to Machu Picchu we decided to wait a bit longer and slowly the cloud started to disperse showing us all of the ruins and just how vast they are. After an hour, now that the sun was up, we decided to head back to the ruins for a closer view before finally heading back to the village a couple of hours later.
Unfortunately, by the time we got back to the village we were both starting to suffer from the altitude again, which meant the train ride back to Cuzco, although in a better class carriage (Vistadome 2), wasn't much fun.
Our intention had been to take the bus that night to the town of Arequipa,
where we would book a 2 day tour to see the Colca Canyon and the Andean Condors. However, on returning to Cuzco Av wasn't feeling up to another journey so we decided to stay another night in Cuzco.
Our final day in Cuzco was a pretty unusual day. We'd planned to head for Arequipa in the evening, but then decided we'd had enough of the altitude and with Arequipa and the Colca Canyon also at around 3,000m they just weren't worth it. So debating our options we decided to pop in to a travel agent to enquire about flights. A few minutes later we emerged with two tickets to Lima and less than two hours to catch the plane! Jumping in a taxi, we rushed back to the hotel, grabbed our bags and went straight to the airport and a few hours later we landed in Lima.
Having heard that Lima isn't the nicest or safest place to be we decided not to stay and after unsuccesfully trying to catch a flight to Trujillo we resigned ourselves to another bus journey and headed off to the bus terminal, where we had to wait a further 6 hours before
finally catching our bus to Trujillo.
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Kaz
non-member comment
What an epic journey!
Hi Suzz, Hi Av! Wow, have thoroughly enjoyed following you around South America and can really relate to your travels now that your're in Peru. What an epic journey you've had! Machu Picchu weather looked similar to when we were there but it's an awesome place even so. Disappointed to hear that you didn't climb Wana Picchu!! Sorry I've been so rubbish keeping in touch but I have read every single blog and loved it all! Gives me itchy feet! See you soon, sis (and Av!). Love Kaz x