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Published: November 19th 2006
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Llamas on the Inca Trail
Llamas on the Inca Trail Today perhaps isn't the best day to write a glowing blog account of my experiences in Peru. After eating the paella from hell a few days ago I've been spending more time with the toilet than anyone else and my most practiced Spanish phrase is now - Donde esta banos? (where is the toilet). However, bowl troubles aside, on reflection Peru does seem to be one thing gone wrong after another.
The jinx kicked off with a boat trip on Lake Titicaca to Isle Del Sol. The island has an almost Mediterranean feel with tiny fishing boats in every cove and dry land that rolls into the bright blue lake. With the lake stretching for as far as the eye can see it seemed as though we were indeed looking out on the med. We went there to do a 6hr walk to prepare for the Inca Trail, but when we finally stumbled to the finish of the walk and our boat back to the mainland two people from the group were missing. We waited...and waited some more but then it started to get dark and our boat driver (who looked all of 15) was starting to make exaggerated choppy
Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu wave hand movements. In the end the majority of us headed back on the 2hr trip to shore whilst two people stayed to look for the lost sheep. They were found the next morning, but out pitch black sail back in a lightening storm was not fun - especially on a tub with no life jackets and a teenage midget at the helm.
A couple of days later we arrived in Cuzco to do the Inca Trail and visit the very famous Machu Picchu. Cuzco is a lovely city with old churches, winding streets and leafy plazas. It is also a tourist mecca with Llama wool hats, jumpers, socks, bags etc on sale every 5 paces. Our Inca Trail wasn't the official Inca Trail but one of the alternative routes you can do. It was a much better alternative as there were no other tourists (the official trail gets 500 per day) and we got to visit local communities high in the remote Andes which was a real insight into life there. The local houses are small stone buildings with thatched roofs and normally consist of one room which serves as kitchen, bedroom and meat smoking houses. Inside also
Reed boat on the coast
Reed boat on the coast live the family's prize possession - Guinea Pigs - which are strangly a delicacy in Peru. I say strangly because there is just no meat on the wee bastards.
My approach to the Inca Trail was always ¨well how hard can it be?´. The answer to that question was 4 people dropping out in the first day. Walking in the freezing cold up a mountain is not easy, doing it at 4,800m altitude is just painful. On the last day (again) my tummy was suffering from the delight that is Peruvian food. Between visits behind big rocks I tried to appreciate the rugged scenery which isn´t unlike the Scottish highlands. That was until we started walking in the snow and sleet - 4 hrs later I was freezing and very miserable. When we got to camp our guides lit a fire and we all steam cooked dry around it. Next to me was a local lady who lived in one of the villages nearby. She had done the same route in sandals and a skirt but was still smiling - just a reminder of how soft we are.
After the Inca Trail we had a day to explore
Dune buggy heaven
Dune buggy heaven Machu Picchu. It is an truly amazing place, perched on top on a mountain and surrounded by jungle and cloud. But as my crap luck goes I got put in a group with a guide who had the knack of making the most interesting place seem dull. He also spoke English with a Jamaican accent which kind of distracted from everything he was saying. That said, the experience of being there made up for it.
Then it was out of the mountains (yay) and on to the coast and some better weather. We rolled passed dusty town after dusty town. There must be a tax in Peru when you finish your house because every one is unfinished. They also seem to be obsessed with election posters, which are painted on every house and splattered on every spare inch of wall. Most of the candidates look like they should be on a pedophile register though and sport cheesy ´come here little child´smiles.
Anyway, first stop on the coast was Nazca and the famous Nazca Lines. Billed by the guidebook as a must see and a true wonder - a flight over the lines to see the shapes carved in the desert by ancient people was indeed popular. Unfortunately, I threw up the whole flight so I didn't see very much of the lines. However, I can tell you what chocolate thrown up in a plastic bag looks like.
Just when I'd had enough of Peru we arrived at what turned out to be my favourite experience of the trip so far. It is a very small Oasis town in the middle of the desert, which is surrounded by huge sand dunes. From there we went out on dune buggies and went sand boarding. Not only was the desert the most incredible landscape but the dune buggies and sand boarding were the most fun - a bit like combining snow boarding with a crazy roller coaster ride. We all came back with sand in places that there really shouldn´t be sand and luckily everyone was in one piece - several people have been killed going too fast on the sand boards! So it seems that the Peru jinx was finally lifted. Let´s just hope that the cuisine is better in Ecuador!!
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zsteve
S
Peru
Hi Iona pity you couldn't enjoy the Nazca lines...they are incredicble. You should not have eaten Peruanian chocolate before flying! And I agree, Huachachina oasis is a must-see for anyone who travels to Peru. Amazing! Enjoy Ecuador!