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Published: November 17th 2006
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What a coincidence
A man whom some may venture to suggest is sexy (at least one) overlooking a place called sexy woman. Thus sexy man and sexy woman! We left yet another picturesque Huanchaco evening, with the orange sun melting into the white mist lined horizon, to hop on a bus (boasting quality films such as those that the Wayan Brothers produce), destined for the bright lights, pizza huts, KFC´s (Dam Them), and unsouthamerican taxi fares of Lima.
Luckily the hostal in Miraflores that we had stayed in a week prior was still there, and the familiar smile of the odd woman who works there greeted us with the same barrage of incoherent cackeling that we had so graciously endured the week before. Needless to say the first thing we did was sleep.
We gathered ourselves hours later to go shopping for a trail pak for Tracey (It was a really enjoyable experience that I wish I could repeat). Two of the three shops she had picked out of the guide didn´t seem to exist, and combined with the third, they scribed a perfect triangle over the city map. The third shop (thank some devine intervention) stocked exactly what she was after, and I was fortunate enough to witness Traceys patient decission making process over wether it was "The one".
We spent our night in Miraflores at the movies
God
The Muche god had many expressions. This one Angey again, and hit the hay early to make sure we could bring ourselves to wake up at 5am to get to the airport early.
Airtravel in Peru is rumoured to be a shambles. People have entered boarding lounges to never be seen again. Often the actual pilots of the planes go missing (after take off), and it is common to wrap your baggage in glad-wrap before checking it in. Ofcourse I believe the association of glad-wrap with lunch is often enough to prompt baggage handellers to tear it open,in order to search for lunch time goodies. I just go with a simple cable tie to secure my bag (I don´t think anyone is after cables).
You are required to check in two hours before take off (just to make sure that your ticket is secured, and that a plane has been booked to catch). You enter the boarding lounge one hour later, to peruse the interestingly priced airport merchandise, and test your maths against the prices. A daringly late boarding call (30 minutes before take-off) prompts you to wave your tickets at anybody in a uniform, and wander out of the airport onto the runway. Taking care not to cross
More Huanchaco sun
We returned and so did nught time paths with any airbuses, boeings, or X-wing fighters. You then guess which yellow line leads ro your plane, so that you can buckle yourself in for some great pre flight information in spanish. We were privi to a particularly impressive belt buckling example, and what I would venture to suggest was a substandard oxygen mask application. He seemed to have tangled the elastic with the air tube (we won´t be following his instructions in the very likely event that we survive a fall from 35,000 feet). I´m still not sure if the flight was even equiped with life jackets (mind you it would take a skilled pilot to find a lake in the Andes to crash in).
Truthfully the flying experience in Peru was very comfortable, and most of what I say is rubbish (having read any of my prior blogs you should already realise this!).
Just as the great "Quentin Tarrintino" decided it would be appropriate to reveal the story out of sequence in "Pulp Fiction", I too (in my self proclaimed greatness) shall now reveal a tale from our journey that predates our departure from Huanchaco. This tale shall be known as the "Secrets of the Sands".
Lots of little men
Moving lots of giant rocks. From as far as 7km away, the inkas rolled these stones of upto 128 tonnes to this fortress that they called Sexy Woman (spelt Saksaywaman). This is the tallest stone here measuring 7m (2m underground). "The Secrets of the Sands" (uncut)
The two explorers faced now with their greatest challange each looked in two different directions. Tracey (whom had often doubted his powers) looked beyond the rusted roof of the van towards the heavens to ask for help from god himself, whilst Andrew (more concerned with the physical challenge facing them, then the spiritual strength to endure it) looked at his crotch. For it was his very own crotch, and the unmentionables residing within that would somehow have to endure the position he would soon assume to allow the 15th 16th and 17th passangers into the small town ace sized van.
34% greater chance of male disfunction, and 27 minutes later the small dust blanketed, suspensionless van pulled into the shadows alongsode a foreboding sand fortress, and squeeked to a halt. Tracey was the first of the two to step on to the road, and as her feet touched the dirt an airey breeze lifted a whisp of sand, which seemed to take the form of a puma clawing a warning in the road. The warning read " Warning..." and the rest was indistinguishable, as Andrew (completely oblivious to the entire event) stepped out
Striations
These are either striations, or perhaps I didn´t pay as much attention in Class as I should have. They must be striations! of the van and onto what had been the warning.
Tracey had decided that such a small and insignificant detail was not worth troubling Andrew with, as the pair headed off along a desserted path (marked by yellow stones and a "Tourists this way" sign). They passed between excavations of an acient city, not aware thet the hill (which seemed to have stolen the light from the sun ahead of them) wasn´t a hill at all.
The explorers outpost had long been guarded by a tribe known as "The Guides". This tribe still occupied the outpost today, but had been rumoured to demand precious gifts, sacrifices, or a 15 sole fee to enter their territory. Tracey and Andrew had prepared for such a demand, and when approached by a tribal leader they kneeled, bowed their heads and offered their soles. It was a tense moment, but it only lasted a moment, as the guide responded by offering them a reciept, and inviting them to share food and drink with him from the shop for a small fee.
Much time passed, and Tracey and Andrew lived with the guides, learning their ways, and speaking in their tongue. After 15 minutes,
Cusco Square
Like every Peruvian town Cusco boasts a square with churches, a fountain, and peruvians. it had come time to continue their journey, but before they departed they knew that they must visit the sand temple (Huaca De La Luna).
A brave guide from one of the villages most proud families was chosen to guide the pair through the temple. She spoke english, and proudly sported a vest embroided with the "Backus" logo of their sponsor.
The group observed remains from a civilization that had inhabited the area more then 1500 years past. The temple was constructed in 5 different layers (each layer being built over the last to honour a new King). Each layer had been decorated with gold, silver, precious stones, and paintings. The shear scale of the temple rattled the very foundations of what Tracey had imagined to be the capabilities of such an ancient civilization, but Andrew quickly reassured her that more wonders lay ahead in their travels.
The ancient adobe walls were still marked in the carvings and paintings,which stirred feelings in the two, and at times the past world of the Moche people seemed to capture them in the past, as if the temple was a gateway into the past, and they walked on an undefined line between the
Inkan architecture
Windows lining up. Inspirational! world that was and the world that has come to pass.
The tales that the guide told of the Moche people and the sights that the two explorers beheld in Huaca De La Luna would stay with the pair forever, Haunt their dreams, scar their hearts and hang a shadow of uneasiness over their souls forever...forever...forever...
"Huaca De La Luna" and "Huaca Del Sol" were truely amazing archealogical sites to see, and the posed the question "Does Cusco hold any wonders to rival these ancient memories that have been scattered in the sands of Trujillo?"
Well now we are in Cusco, counting down to Traceys departure on the Inca Trail, and what we have seen so far suggests that to judge between the too may be beyond us. We have taken a journey around the sites near the city which seemed to demonstrate the great devotion of the incas to their rock work. The stone constructions seem divine in their perfection, and the scale of some of the strudtures is beyond modern comprehension. Still the relics in Trujillo seem to outshine those of the incas.
Macchu Picchu and the Sacred Valley await, perhaps the will redirect my oppinion.
Cathedral
The square in the Cathedral of Cusco, which was built on top of one of the most important Inka Temples. The well beside which Tracey is striking a pose was very important in ritual ceremonies, and is carved out of one stone.
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Tomas
non-member comment
Que Bueno
Me allegro que ustedes estan andando bien como siempre. Estoy celoso! Alejandro me dijo que toda la familia van a encontrar ustedes en Buenos Aires al 28 de Dic. Estoy celoso de nuevo! Alejandro esta llegando aca a alojar conmigo para 3 noches mientras esta atendiendo el recital de U2 en Auckland. Va a asistir los dos recitales. Le dije que mi casa es una casa muy tranquilo y no se permite fiestas! Creo que va estar en la compania de tu primo Zak y un otro chico per ellos no van a alojar aqui. Proximo Martes estoy invitado por Helen Clark a un Almuerzo Estatal en el Beehive para la presidenta de Chile que seria interesante. Antes el almuerzo tengo una cita con Ian y Caitlin en Lido y voy a darles consejos sobre acomodacion y cosas a hacer en Buenos Aires. Yo se que vos, seguro, va a tenir tus propios consejos pero creo que tu experiencias estuveron en el mundo mocillero y por eso voy a consejarles con respecto la vida buena como el Hotel Hyatt y los retaurantes mas finos! Buneo, suerte, Tomas