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Published: October 6th 2008
Cusco is a truely schizophrenic fusion. The Incan empire built itself on the technological and territorial foundations from a number of cultures, and built an empire from the humble beginnings of the Cusco valley. When the Spanish tore down the impressive temples and buildings, to erect constructions worshipping Christianity and colonial 'progress', they were not silly enough to do away with the remarkable earthquake-proof foundations of massive interlocked stone blocks, from craftmanship that was lost forever. Add the modern scourge of traffic, blaring horns and braving blind corners, and the modern city of Cusco is quite an experience of a layered time machine.
Narrow streets, with elegant colonial balconies, overhanging a plastered wall built upon a bare foundation of huge Incan stone blocks. Hopping off the narrow roadway to the warning honk of a vehicle, onto a footpath barely wide enough for one person to walk. The natural gas supply man buzzing past on his motorbike with five large bottles swinging off the back on chains. Walking up a street, with two people immediately besieging you with menus of their restaurants, with a third trying to get in on the action. Necklases, massages, paintings, jewellry - so many people with
things to offer you, and not taking the backfoot in offering them. Some travellers hate it, but there was so much to Cusco for us to love.
Out of Cusco, many fortresses still possess their base layer of massive stone, which was too hard to be utilised to supply the considerable demand for a growing colonial city, much of the base layer of stone was too hard to move. So fortunately, there is something left to see of the many archaeological sites in and around Cusco. And we spent many thought provoking hours marvelling at these structures. But it is too easy to get lost in the demise of the Incas. Perhaps what was just as fascinating was their lives, and how such a small ditrict could become an Empire. A tour run by our Inca trail tour company, Llama Path, gave us the opportunity to visit the Sacred Valley - the beautiful fertile valley with impossibly steep sides, an abundant supply of water in the river despite the long dry season. Valleys like this were the lifeline of these people, and their ability to adapt and domesticate strategic plants and animals were pivotal to their survival and progress.
Saqsaywaman
Life amid the fortress.They were even able to store three years of food, in case of emergencies.
Closer to Cusco, a short bus ride uphill gave us the good start to walk 8kms past four Inca sites, culminating in the jagged defensive walls of Saqsaywaman - a pivotal location in the final chapters of the incumbent defenders of the empire. After the exertions of the day, it was only right to retire to a tiny shop we discovered for the most decadent Chocolate Brownie on the planet, smothered in Belgian chocolate.
(Travellers note - Qoscopolis: Carmen Alto st. RHS going up. The Hot Chocolate is the best of Latin America. HIGHLY recommended!).
So Cusco provided us so many teasers for the prize offering Peru has in its varied arsenal - the Inca 'Pilgrimage' to Machu Picchu. So with much anticipation, we were waiting for the hostel doorbell to ring at 4:30am...
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Darlene
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Great to see all the photos amazing how quickly the time is passing ... and how many places you are squeezing in lovexx