Peru

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On to the land of the Incas.

Grudgingly farwelling Bolivia, we headed off on a big old bus to Peru. I had finally settled in my seat, having been moved several times by the pack of peruvian ladies (full velvet skirts, aprons, bowler hast and all) who were lugging what appeared to be 2 full households worth of gear from Copa to Cusco, and was enjoying lingering views of the lake when I was jolted back to reality by my husband´s somewhat concerning call of ´oh Jesus´. Not being an overly religous man, I assumed he was not getting into some spiritual healing. No, he was reacting to the bus barreling towards us as we gunned it downhill on a path that didn´t look good. By some shear luck, we passed each other, but the fun had only just begun. The bus trip lasted close on 13 hours. The peruvian Pack repacked their stash at least 12 times, involving us having boxes shoved under our butts, having bags tied above our heads and poor Rob having BO covered smocks shoved in his face. Somehow the bus driver managed to load about 900kg of frozen fish into the hold and still move the bus. This was all well and good until night fell and he swerved to miss a cow. He didn´t. We all sat there while he argued with the farmer about compensation for living, but somwhat ´damaged´cow. I had visions of us surviving on the frozen fish for the next few days but we finall crawled on to Cusco.

We were there for a few days, checking out ruins, old Spanish churches, shopping and enjoying Pisco Sours, my new drink of choice. And eating. I was warned that a vego would not last long in sth america. I lasted a month. I folded. And what was my first meat dish in a decade? Alpacha steak and it was great! Rob dined on a cuy (like a big guinea pig) while some Sydney lads looked on in a miz of disgust and awe. I don´t think I´ve been coverted for life but I bet my German nan will be gald to hear that I have at least tried!

Then it was off to hike the Inca Trail to Machu Pichu for the next 4 days. It was beyond description really - 4 days of early starts, long days and tents lined up with our 14 new friends. I have no idea how the porters managed to carry 25 or 30kg and still beat us to camp each night (after making breakfast, running ahead to make lunch and then running ahead again to set up camp and fix dinner) - these guys are some of the toughest I have ever come across and their quiet, Andean nature just makes you respect them even more. As for the hike and sites - stunning. Your legs know that you have hiked 16-odd km a day up and down the Andes but it is worth it. Not just for Machu Pichu itself but the mountains, sites, glaciers etc along the way are just too huge to capture in a photo. We hit MP by 8am on the last dayso you get hours and hours to explore. Then it was off to Agua Calientes doen the mountain for a feed, hot springs and a beer/pisco sour or two.

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