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Published: March 24th 2008
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Hello Hello
We have had the most incredible last few days in and around Arequipa (south west Peru) and have visited some of the most breathtaking (literally) places in the world. Well, that may be a slight exaggeration but it certaintly felt at times like we were on top of the world.
Arequipa itself is a lovely city with lots to see including the beautiful Monastery Santa Catalina, actually a convent, and lots of attractive buildings, museums, cathedral etc. We have been enjoying chilling out here in the lovely weather- sorry to hear about the freezing temperatures in the uk (Shame). After a couple of days of site seeing we decided to get a bit more adventurous and on Good Friday climbed up a mountain. Actually, i´ll correct that, we later discovered that "El Misti" is not a mountain but Peru´s most active volcano with a big cross on the top!!
We were dropped off at 3400 metres and climbed to Base Camp at 4600 metres - it was stunning!! It wasn´t the easiest climb in the world, and as complete novices we both found we had to adapt quite quickly, but it was extremely exhilarating -
getting to the summit is an arduous 2 day affair requiring ice picks apparently, v scary. As we reached base camp and collapsed in a heap with our fellow walkers, Tom and Henrick, our guide, Ivan, suddenly told us that all their equipment had been robbed and that we needed to leave immediately - and he was off. I attempted to follow him as he literally ran down the mountain but the 5 hour ascent had really affected my legs and i was wobbling all over the place. I was also extremely worried as Nige had stopped at around 4000 metres to take some photos and the guide had given us the impression that the robbers were still around so i was desperate to make sure Nige was ok and wasn´t being held up!!! So i basically tumbled, wibbled and wobbled down the mountain and was happy to find Nige just emerging from a kip behind a cactus, completely unharmed. There then ensued a big panic amongst the guides as the robbers had taken the gear in the last hour and had to be near us in the mountains. Our guide, Ivan, gallantly went skipping down the mountains to seek
and presumably reprimand the villains leaving us to wait for his colleague called Jesus to take us down. As we were waiting Nige remarked on the irony of it being Good Friday, we were up a hill with a cross on the top waiting for a guy called Jesus!!
We survived the 4 x 4 drive back from El Misti, someone had obviously whispered in the driver´s ear "drive like the wind" and have just spent the rest of the Easter Weekend visiting Colca Canyon which has to be seen to be believed. Vast, beautiful, terraced, rocky, verdant, barren - it had everything - even condors flying above it! We stayed in a great place which had a pet alpaca (unfortunately I think we ate his cousin for lunch and wore his brother at dinner) who acted as a security guard and even prevented us from getting back to our rooms at one stage, apparently he likes the English but has a problem with Italians one of whom he attempted to butt.
We feel so spoilt being surrounded by the Andes and Nige has been taking some great pictures. Talking of which i am sure you´ve noticed the
absence of photos on the blog - let´s just call it a techincal issue at this stage which we are trying to resolve. It´s to do with size of files apparently but we will sort it out i´m sure.
We are also trying to work out what to do after the Inca trail which we start on 29th March for four days. The current thinking is to postpone Bolivia until May and try and get down to Patagonia while the weather is still good. We´ll keep you updated.
We also seem to be acclimatising which is good news, altitude sickness has more or less been kept at bay until now though you definitely feel it at 4900 metres (where we were today and yesterday - deep breaths) and are just hoping that it stays away for good, fingers crossed.
We are in Arequipa till Tuesday night when we are taking an overnight bus to Cusco, i would try and pretend that it is all standing up next to sheep and chickens but actually it is extremely comfortable providing the driver has good taste in DVDs.
By the way, my big news from home is that I´m
going to be an Auntie again, hooray!!Completely thrilled for Al, Fi and Ollie, not to mention the very proud grandparents. We toasted Pisco Sours to you all when we heard the news.
We´re thinking of you so please let us know any news.
Lots and lots of love.
Nige and Louise x
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Jackie Ellis
non-member comment
Hi Louise, My geography is improving no end. You and Nige in South America and Vic in Africa with Jonesy (her Nige) . Can go to the village quiz... will be top. Great reading and photos, trust you are planning a book on your return. Following you . Jackie.