Ayampe

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Ayampe is another paradise in Ecuador. I.e. if you like it quiet. Really quiet. There is no internet and the handful of tiny tiendas (stores) are run by some oldies who frequently can't sell to you, as they forgot what the price of the goodie is that you want to buy. So rather than selling it for a few centavos too much or a few too less they prefer not to make a mistake and so not sell it at all. But there is always the hostal restaurant, and if you really miss something you can always go for the half hour bus ride into Puerto Lopez.

One could just while the days away here, staring at the endless beaches, the waves, the rock needles Los Ahorcados, the pelicans and the frigatebirds. The latter show some unusual behaviour: while flying they first flutter with their wings at medium speed and then really fast going down fast. It looks too stupid, as if they were drunk or something. Not sure if it is the males trying to attract the females. Frigatebirds are strange birds: they are known to steal the prey from other birds. They attack the other bird from above until they let their prey fall and then the frigatebirds rapidly fly down to pick up the prey.

Obviously I was not just daydreaming in Ayampe, but was mainly writing up some of the hikes I had done around Puerto Lopez. But I must admit it is very pleasant to do this while listening to the sea and the birds and go for the occasional swim.... And it is quite as obvious that I wouldn't choose any place which didn't also have some hiking opportunities....:

I walked upstream Río Ayampe to a place called Cantalapiedra, a total of about 13 km. I loved the hike along the river. Well, I should rather say IN the river. I must have crossed the river nearly 50 times, the path zigzags across it, from one side to the other. I was glad I was wearing my waterproof sandals. The river is lined all along by huge bamboo trees and it was all green and lush and full of birds. In fact it is one of Ecuador's best places to watch birds. Occassionally I met the odd peasant chasing some cows home or looking for their horses. Once I observed a group of locals searching under the rocks in the river for tiny little fish and then driving them with their hands into their nets.

When I reached Cantalapiedra after four hours under the burning sun I was glad to find a place of peace and beauty. It is hard to describe what Cantalapiedra is: a nature reserve, wildlife sanctuary, adventure sports facility,... With its open buildings all made from local bamboo in the style of Asian temples and its colorful flowers everywhere it radiates a calmness and peacefulness that makes you want to stay longer.

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