Cuenca

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It´s been a quiet day here in Cuenca Ecuador as we rested up after a long travel day yesterday on the heels of three nights of three not-so-great sleeps. We also took the opportunity to get some laundry done here. We went a month in Chile doing our own laundry in bathroom sinks in our rooms, but you can´t do that if the climate doesn´t cooperate. It´s cool and a bit damp here right now. so the only option is a laundry service. In order to get all of my underwear clean, I usually go commando on laundry days.

Cuenca is probably the nicest city we will have visited in South America. Safe, interesting, historic, pedestrian friendly. You name it, this place has got it. We´re only sorry that it´s really only a one day visit. Tomorrow we move to Baños for two days.

Despite the quiet day, we managed to visit a museum for contemporary art, the main plaza, and a workshop for Panama hats. Cuenca is a cultural centre for Ecuador, and the art we saw a the gallery was amazing. It is nice to see the techniques and ideas of very old art forms being adapted into new styles. In the main square, we were interviewed by a group of students working on a school project.

About the Panama hats, this may be the biggest marketing fumble of the last century. There is a very special type of hat made only in Ecuador, and using a specific type of palm leaf and a specific treatmen for the leaf fibres. The quality of the hat is determined mostly by how finely the palm leaves get pulled apart before starting weaving. The finer the strands, the more work to make the hat, and the nicer the hat is. (The best hats cost hundreds of dollars and can get so fine that the hat can be rolled up, and passed through a wedding ring). Anyway, about the marketing problem. The Ecuadorians have been happily exporting their hats for hundreds of years, and during the construction of the Panama Canal, the various American and European contractors were fond of buying them in Panama to beat the heat. Hence they became known as Panama Hats.

At breakfast today we talked with another traveller who recommended we make a trip out to an orchid farm for a tour of how they are grown. Pauline was really interested, but I was suspect. But I´m a team player, so we headed there in the afternoon, and it was really quite interesting. The place produces hundreds of thousands of orchids every year, and the varieties are amazing. The value added piece is the walk through their fruit orchard, and had a chance to feed fresh oranges to three macaws they have in an enclosure. The amazing thing for me was watching the macaw peel the orange as easily as we do, and then separate each of the wedges to eat them separately.

Flowers are one of the top four exports from Ecuador, and the local flower market just beside the main plaze is beautiful. At $2.50 for an arrangement, even I could afford to show my romantic side by buying flowers for Pauline.

Had supper tonight at a popular restaurant that has great food. They also have a very unique chandalier made from broken dishes.

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Photos

New Cathedral in Cuenca
You know a town has history when it has new cathedral that was built in the 1880´s

Comments

[DcatsRcoolio]

Orchids
Mom and I accidentally ran into the annual orchid show at Assiniboine Park last weekend... Although it was absolutely beautiful .... alas I fear our experience likely paled in comparison to yours. Dawna

[Grandma]

Dear Abbey
I know that it is very hot where you are now. But here the weather is getting warmer. Our temp. in Winnipeg is 10 c. today, but it is even warmer in Thompson. It is raining here right now which is not so good for the poor people whose homes are close to beimg flooded. The pictures of you on this hoilday are great, almost as good as having you right here. Much love. Grandma. XOXOXO

[gail]

That sounded really interesting. Did you buy a Panama hat? When is the Galapagos tour? Looking forward to hearing about one and seeing the pics. Had dinner with the Taps last night along with Elaine and Ian Thompson. Good food as usual and LOTS of wine. Could you ask for anything more?

[Claire]

thanks for the great post!
I love your tips about Cuenca. Thank you. What was the name of the restaurant? What kind of food did you find there? Happy travels, Claire

[Maria]

Hats off to Cuenca
Cuenca looks great (minus the mutant beatle). It looks so calm and peaceful. Interesting tidbit about the "Panama"hat. I thought I spotted you sporting some new fashionable headwear a few blogs ago in the Presidential palace picture. Were those Ecuadorian hats (hmm....that name doesn't roll of the tongue very easily)? A little tmi on the laundry, but that is reality blogging for you. Spring has finally sprung in Calgary (after a snowstorm last weekend) so we are off to get some fresh air. Happy travels. Maria

[lossmithviajan]

Cuenca Restaurant
Hi Claire. The Restaurant name is Rymipampa, or something like that. It is easy to find even without the name. It is beside the (new) cathedral (big one), looking onto the main plaza. We ended up eating there three times in two days just because it was comfortable.

[lossmithviajan]

Panama hat
Yes, I now own a Panama hat, but it hasn´t appeared in any blog photos yet. That was a ´Whistler Hat´ which I´m sure wasn´t made there either. Clearly I´m aging. Now own two sensible hats.