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Published: September 30th 2009
Yes, Cuenca has some great nightlife. Unfortunately, most of it has passed us by...
We missed a jazz concert and haven't heard or read about any symphonic performances. We were also prevented from enjoying a six-play theater festival due to our language handicap. That kind of cultural involvement, requiring a fluent understanding of the language, is light years away. Right now, we'd be happy just to be able to communicate better with the cab drivers, business people, and the terrific locals we run into every day.
There were also a few pop music concerts with Latin American performers we didn't know, and a standup comic who was supposed to be very funny. Not in this lifetime! One thing that is almost impossible — even if you are semi-fluent in your new tongue — is topical humor and the subtleties and nuances of language used in humor.
If there's anything that can make you want to be kind and patient with immigrants learning English in North America, it's traveling to countries where English is not widely spoken. It keeps you humble. Very. And it reminds you to speak slowly, very s-l-o-w-l-y.
There's a couple of ways to find
out what's happening in Cuenca though, even if your Spanish skills are still embryonic. One is to scan the local paper, "The Mercurio," with a trusty dictionario in hand. Another way (if you want to cheat) is to sign up for an in-English email that catches some of the events and lets you know about them, often several times a week. Just write to: gringotree@cuencahighlife.com and the kind moderator will put you on the mailing list.
There's also lots of wonderful restaurants in Cuenca that offer live music, but from what we've seen, most of the action doesn't start until after 9:30, typical of Latin American countries.
Last weekend though, there was a mini-festival in the Plaza promoting tourism and we were lucky enough to be able to be "in the right place at the right time" catching a free night-time tour around the city atop a two-decker red bus. The Big Red Bus normally takes turistas on two-hour tours during the day for about $5.00, a good way to get oriented to this beautiful city of half a million.
It was a lovely evening and a great ride through the city and along the rivers —
except for having to continually duck under telephone cables strung from one side of the narrow streets to the other. Some of the wires literally skimmed the top of the seats and you had to stay alert, but the screams and squeals from passengers in the front of the bus were an effective warning system. Luckily, the bus was going slowly enough that decapitation probably wasn't likely, but nonetheless...
The ride included a live band, happy companions, and a delicious hot drink "with just a little bit of alcohol." Roses were distributed to keep and toss to the friendly crowd when we arrived back at the Main Plaza and the bandstand, set up for the occasion.
Jack caught the eye of an Ecuadorian woman standing in the Plaza below and tossed her one of his roses. Our new Ecuadorian friend, Eduardo, gave Jack a bad time all the way off the bus saying, "Now you have two wives!" Not knowing the local customs can get you in trouble.
The arrival of our bus signaled the beginning of the music and fireworks. A seven-piece band entertained and a troupe of energetic performers demonstrated dances from the various regions
and peoples of Ecuador.
It was colorful and fun — even if I wasn't asked to dance with the locals like in Cotacachi. There, I just had to shuffle my feet and go around in circles with my head kindof bobbing up and down. In Cuenca, we're talking real dancers, with smiles and costumes and probably years of practice. Cool.
Day or night. Whether you look for it — or just get lucky — there's lots to do in Cuenca.
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Jim
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Finally, the photographer gets to be in a photo! Katie, I was beginning to forget what you looked like. Thank goodness you got around to passing off the camera and reminding us what a beauty you are! Glad the two of you are having so much fun but we still miss you here in Ajijic.