The world´s most difficult railway

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We arrived in Riobamba to find the town still shrouded in ash, as bad as Banos had been the previous week. We did as we were told and bought rather attractive face masks (no comments required, thanks). Went to buy our train tickets for the next day, and also booked our cushions, which are very necessary for the uncomfortable ride on top of the carriages.

Next morning we were up at 5, on top of the train by 6. We had to climb on top of the box cars with our rucksacks and cushions, along with all the other gringos. While waiting for the train to leave we could have done all our souvenir shopping and bought our breakfast, all from vendors walking up and down the top of the train. How the ladies manage to climb up in their long skirts, with hats perched jauntily on their heads, and carrying mountains of merchandise, we´ll never know.

The train left bang on time, as do all the buses here (if not a bit early), and donned our masks, hats, scarves, gloves (in addition to the long johns we already had on) - you´d never believe you were only a stone´s throw from the equator! Before long we were passing through countryside which alternated between rich farmland and dry, barren mountainsides with just a few tufts of grass amongst the boulders. All along the track families and children ran alongside the train, waving and hoping for sweets.

Half way to Alausi we had a comfort stop, where the local community was cooking up a storm. Waffles and coffee, sweetcorn, banana or cheese empanadas - either bought from the stall or once again, delivered to the top of the train.

About 11.30 we arrived in Alausi before descending the Devil´s Nose, and it was time for those woosies to go down inside the carriages who didn´t have the courage to stay on top (eg Jean). The railway was started in the late 1800s, from Guayaquil to Quito, but it encountered a seemingly unsurmountable problem when it reached a sheer rock face. It is a feat of masterful engineering which entails a series of switchbacks with just enough room for the track, and none to spare. So you seem to be dangling off the middle of the mountain. Hence its being called the most difficult railway in the world. You wouldn´t want to look too closely at the state of the track and sleepers either!

To celebrate our bravery we booked ourselves into a hacienda type accommodation very close to Cotopaxi, which is the world´s highest active volcano, for a couple of nights, which was just what the doctor ordered. Our hair was even more filthy from the volcanic ash and smuts from the train than it had been the previous week, but there were no lumps of scoria in it this time.

Next morning we went to Sasquisili Markets which are aimed at the locals and not the tourists. About seven different markets can fulfil your every desire, from nuts and bolts, to potatoes to a llama! There were some pitiful sights of animals being tied up and carted away, including sheep and chickens tied to the top of a bus. However, we shouldn´t comdemn a way of life, when these tiny people are themselves almost doubled over, carrying on their backs huge sacks of rice and corn, with a pig in town in one hand, and live chickens in the other. It was a really interesting experience, and great for people watching.

We´re now in Quito preparing for the jungle tomorrow (ie washing our clothes in insecticide) and psyching ourselves up for another 9 hours on a bus to Coca. We doubt we´ll be able to send any emails or add blog entries until our return to civilisation next Friday.

Short time later : Blow ... this computer doesn´t have a CD-rom, so we can´t put any photos on. Sorry! If we get a chance tonight we´ll try and put them on separately.

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Comments

[Detlef & Gila]

Thanks
Hi Girlies! Again thank you for your great entertaining blog. Also the pictires are perfect! Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy! Jean, you levely husband is missing you heaps! He's counting the hours.. In Germany you made an old man very, very happy! By writing Gila's dad a postcard, you probably enlighted his whole next six month and more as he will tell everybody in Europe about his GirlFriend Jean in Ecuador. Lucky him! All the best in the jungle! Cheers Gila and Detlef

[Larry and Alice Seerup]

GAWD!
What can we say! What an adventure you are having! Keep well and look after yourselves for the last part of your holiday. Can't wait to see you both and hear all about it. Love Larry and Alice