Quito

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I am continuing to have a wonderful time here in Quito. So much happens everyday, and with every experience being new and different it is impossible to express it all in this blog; however, there are things that in my opinion demonstrate the uniqueness and wonder of the city and the Ecuadorian people.

Salsa here is the national dance, and it is a cultural phenomena that is both fun to watch and try. My first night out dancing wasn´t too successful, but I have since been and had a tremendous time, and I have another night out planned this evening. I went with my dear friend from England, Pranav, and we were both equally in awe of the locals salsa abilities as we were happy to be the only gringos in the place. The club we found was at the top of a winding staircase in a low cement building. The bar was small and dark with a tiny dance floor, a modest bar and low tables and stools along each wall. The moment I walked in I knew it was exactly where I wanted to be and precisely what I envisioned an Ecuadorian club would look like. For the first portion of the night mi amigo y yo, watched in admiration at the dancers on the floor twirling and moving their hips. It wasn´t until the music took a drastic turn towards American hip-hop and the Cube Libres we were drinking kicked in, that we felt confident to join in the dancing. It is a misleading image that all of the people in the bar had stellar Salsa abilities, there were both groups, usually all men, who were´nt dancing at all, as well as young couples taking the music, alcohol and time out of sight of their parents as an opportunity to make-out. In fact, during some of the slow ballads, which everyone knew the words to, the dance floor was swathed in young love and active mouths. As the music changed back and forth from Salsa to tecno to hip-hop we gave all modes of movement a try and it was with fondness rather than disdain that the locals looked upon our glumsy attempts to mimic their mythem and agility. The night was a grand success in all.
There are three distinct parts of the city, the North, South and Centro de Historico, which is in the center as I described in my last entry. As the North is the center of business and tourism there is not as much evidence of poverty and beggars are rarely seen here. The Centro de Historico is both steeped in Ecuadorian culture as well as provides evidence of poverty, although not to the extent I had expected. There are women dressed in authentic indigenous costume, such as tiered skirts, blouses, shawls, sandals and felt hats, with long braids snaking down their backs. It is not uncommon to see their children tied to their backs, and they carry around ice cream, nuts, handy crafts and lotto tickets to sell. There are many poor people who sell lotto tickets and you see them all over, I am not sure where they get them, or what kind of profit they make from the sales. Where poverty is most striking and sad is in the streets of the Centro Historico as little children, who look to be four or five years old, but who are probably eight or nine, try to sell you candy or shine your shoes. They plead with you and tell you how they need to eat and I am torn between knowing it is not right for such small children to have to work, but knowing also they have no choice, or at least very little. It was striking once when my friend and I were walking and a small boy asked us if we wanted our shoes shined. We both looked down at our feet and then back at him with dirt and shoe polish smeared across his face, questioning his offer because at the time we were both wearing flip-flops which would have been impossible to polish. When we pointed this out to us, he told us how he was hungry...

The people of Quito are some of the friendly people I have ever met. They are both interested in learning about you and with what can only be described as shocking quickness, treat you with intense familiarity. My family and teacher are a perfect example. My family has so many pet names for me it is hard for me to keep all of them straight: linda, bonita and others refer to being good looking, where as mejita, mi corizone, mi amor are respectively: my child, my heart and my love. I am also called Agelita, bonita chica, chiquita and probably some names I can´t remember. And this isn´t just my family, at the restaurant I had lunch at today, the waitress called me mi corizone. Although it is hard to believe that I am really some of these peoples´ love, it is so nice to be in a culture where everyone is so warm, and it has been so easy living with my family because they treat me as one of their own children. I find it incredible that after fifteen years of having students live with them, they still are so genuinely interested in our lives and are so sweet. One night before I went out, they called me and Pranav down from our rooms, just so they could take pictures of us as a ´family.´ It was so touching and I am so glad that I am staying with them.

Likewise my Spanish teacher is fabulous. Not only is she kind and teaching me a great deal, but she is funny. She tells me about the dangers of the city and always asks me if I have fallen in love with any Ecuadorians yet. She, as well as many others, are very curious as to why I don´t have a boyfriend. I am at prime marrying age by Ecuadorian standards and people can´t understand why I don´t have "anyone." "But you are beautiful" they say, as if it is that simple... My teacher Grace tells me I am too picky and I am looking for someone too handsome. Besides teasing me, she also tells me about Ecuadorian culture and history. She told me about how she wants to visit the US, but how she can´t attain a visa because she does not have enough material wealth for example, a house and a car. I have heard the same thing elsewhere; that is extremely hard for Ecuadorians to travel to the US and Europe, because both countries are trying to avoid immigration problems. She also told me about Catholicism in the country and the horrors of colonial rule, but how a vibrant and lively indigenous culture exist in Ecuador.

I am going to Baños tomorrow, which is a popular tourist destination, where natural springs are warmed by an active volcano.

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