Galapagos Day 1


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South America » Ecuador » Galápagos
May 6th 2012
Published: May 18th 2012
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Sorry, have been forgetting to update my blog.... Bad Rosemary!



Day 1- Baltra (Barge beach)
Left our hostel at about half past eight to catch a cab to the airport. Quito's airport is small and sparse, but they had a good little cafe, so I had a grilled cheese sandwich (actual wholewheat bread, seriously rare in Ecuador!) and some very fresh orange juice for breakfast. Flight was short and relatively uneventful. Very loud and excited class of private school kids (about age eight or so) who cheered our takeoff and landing. A bit rowdy, but their enthusiasm was infectious, and hey, we're going to the Galapagos, so why not cheer a bit? Got to the airport in Baltra, San Cristobal Island. Very small airport, but wide and open. A Darwin's finch actually flew in and hopped around a bit while we waited for the rest of our group to arrive on the next flight over. Finally, everyone arrived. Very cosmopolitan group in all... Germans, Fins, Aussies, Kiwis, English, Danes, Norwegians, Dutch, Americans, Canadians, represented, and only 16 of us on the boat (plus the Ecuadorian crew-members)!
Only fourteen at the airport, though, the German couple were already on the boat, as they'd already been cruising for the last eight days (the itinerary rotates).
We all piled onto a bus to be transferred to out boat. Short ride, but let us look at the scenery a bit. Very dry looking, mostly, with spiny cacti, stunted trees, and sparse shrubs, mostly.
At the dock, there was a Galapagos Sea Lion asleep in the corner of the area we stood waiting for the dinghy. Very chill fellow, barely batted an eye when we wandered over to take some pictures.
Some gull like birds swooping around the docks, and a pelican soberly perched on the rocks.. Four different kinds of animal before we even got on the boat. Not bad at all.
Boat itself is very nice, the Guantanamera, like the song (slightly cheesy name, but could be worse). We are in cabin 7, with a big window to keep from feeling at all claustrophobic. Aircon and private bathroom included, with hot water and towels. Has a patio type thing on the roof, tv, dining area, two dinghies, etc.
We quickly got under way, and it was time for lunch. Good food,which was a relief. Rice and plaintains, fried tuna, fresh fruit and, wonder of wonders, lentils, green beans, and carrots!
Ecuadorian 'cuisine' is sadly lacking in vegetables and beans, which is annoying for someone who doesn't eat meat, so this is a welcome change.
As we ate, frigate birds circled lazily over the ship, angling their long black wings to catch the air currents. They swooped low, wheeling around again and again, the males with crimson neck pouches, a bright flash of colour against the sky. It's mating season for them, and we'll be seeing lots more tomorrow on Genovesa Island.
She's a fairly stable boat, and I haven't felt seasick yet, though it's been pretty calm thus far. We'll see , though. I am taking Gravol at the moment, and will try out one of my scopolamine patches tomorrow.
After lunch was a quick debriefing, then we grabbed our snorkeling gear and went into the dinghies again, making our way over to Bachas (Barges) Beach, named for the rusted out wreck of a barge dumped by American soldiers at the end of World War II. Turns out they came here a few days after Pearl Harbour, as a base to monitor for possible Japanese attacks on the Panama Canal, something that never did end up happening. Interesting bit of history, not something I really knew about before.
Got onto the beach and almost immediately spotted Sally lightfoot crabs, large and brightly scarlet, with orange-yellow and blue accents, clambering the basalt rocks of the beach, and on the coral sand.
Ten years ago they were much more skittish of people, as they were popular meals, but a law banning their hunting was passed, and they've reverted back to their normal, fairly placid habits.
Walked a little farther and saw our first marine iguanas, sunning on the rocks. So many of the animals seem so unhurried here, moving slowly, flying in circles, stopping for naps... Hardly a frantic pace of life.
Some more frigate birds, and a few blue footed boobies kept flying overhead as we walked to a brackish lagoon where three pink flamingoes and a few stilt-birds were feeding. Saw a few more pelicans, too.
Flamingoes are such comical looking birds, with their silly big beaks and knobbly knees. Sadly there populations on the Galapagos have dropped by something like 85%, according to our guide, due mostly to stress from invasive species like the feral goats; flamingoes need to feel unthreatened, or they refuse to mate.
Walked back down the beach, and our guide pointed out the sea turtle nests in the sand. Only one species of turtle breeds in the Galapagos, though three species here.
Then it was time for snorkeling in the warm, turquoise waters just off the beach. Lots of colourful fish, from finger sized to ones far bigger than my head. Saw a ray of some kind at one point, but got overly excited and tried to go deeper to get a close look. Fair enough, but not the greatest plan when inhaling through a tube that WAS just above the surface. Got a mouthful of salt water, but was okay.
Starting raining. Very weird feeling, being underwater, still breathing air, and hearing the muffled patter of the raindrops, some landing on your back, the part exposed to the air.
Got out after a while, and dried off while havig a staring contest with another marine iguana who had wandered onto the beach. He won, and it was back to the boat for a snack (fresh garlic bread and some lemonade), a shower, an emergency safety drill, and some free time before dinner.
Dinner was good, and afterwards we all hung out on the shaded top deck for a welcome party. Went to bed early, we sail all night to get to Genovesa, the northernmost island.

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