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Published: February 16th 2008
This will be our last blog entry from Ecuador. Sad, but true. But, not actually that sad.
As you all know, we were to be in Ecuador for 10 weeks. It has been just over 5, nearly 6 by now. And it will end that way. We will not make it to 10 weeks. Not even to 7.
Our Predicament
You see, yesterday, upon returning from our excellent Galapagos trip, I found that my brother Tom had written me 2 urgent emails. They were entitled ¨Extremely important news regarding Jack's York U application¨and ¨Critical News Re: York U.¨ Being a genius, I figured it had something to do with my application to the Bachelor of Education Program at York University, in northern Toronto. The emails explained in no uncertain terms, that I had to schedule an interview with the recruiters there in the next week or forfeit my application. I was among the 2000 of 5000 to get offered interviews, and would be one step closer to being one of the 700 accepted.
My dilemma, our dilemma, was obvios. Go home immediately, or skip it. I had one other application out there awaiting word. Having received
Sea Lion at Baltra Harbour
Siesta on a bench in the Shade....that is the lifethis interview invite, I was confident I would get accepted into the other program, but ultimately we had to decide which of the following two options were better: 1. End the trip after 6 excellent weeks, 4 weeks early, and go home to interview with a great school to pursue my dream of being a teacher and changing the world, or 2. Not go to the interview, and continue the trip as planned, and forget about the months of preparation for the application and the years I´ve spent deciding what to do with my life.
We solicited advice from everyone we knew, and followed out instincts and theirs, and changed our flights, and are going home on the 17th of February, almost exactly 1 month early.
And here we are.
Welcome to Magic Land, AKA The Galapagos Islands
We departed for the Galapagos Islands on February 10 at 8:00am. An early morning had us at the airport at about 5:45. The flight was first a half hour from Quito to Guayaquil, and after 45 minutes on the ground refuelling and picking up new passengers, 1.5 hours from Guayaquil to Isla Baltra, in the Galapagos. The
Encantada Motor Sailor
Our Boat...for 5 days or so flights were relatively painless, and we were there comfortably in no time at all, although my nerves for flying are nearly completely shot and I´ve now made countless pacts with myself and Jackie to not fly ever again after this trip (I know, I know, the statistics show this and that, rational versus irrational fears, all that stuff, but, it appears I can´t help it.)
The airport at Baltra is small to say the least. It is strange landing on a pretty desolate volcanic Island, where you can´t even see the airport and landing strip until you are practically right on top of it, and once there, the terminal has only 2 walls, and is taking in 727s several times a day. Very surreal.
Our guide met us at the exit. His name was Juan.
Haven´t You Forgotten Something Jack…
Let’s just go back about a day baby…..and talk a little bit about my trip to the hospital in Quito. What a day that was….it was on the Saturday right before we were supposed to leave for the islands and I got hit with another bout of extreme traveller’s sickness. Because of our trip, I
Our Guide Juan
On the Panga during our Black Turtle Cove adventure knew that I needed to see a Doctor to let me know what was going on. After a couple hours spent trying to hunt down a Doctor opened on a Saturday in Quito we decided to head to the hospital….where the emergency room was much saner than those in Canada. I had a bed within 30 minutes of being there. We were able to speak with a young doctor named Carlos who seemed to have seen this case many times and plug me into an IV and started me on antibiotics.
Jack and I spent the day talking about how up to date the hospital was and that if you plugged your ears so as to block out the Spanish it was like we were in North America. My diagnosis after giving him some samples…..was a bacterial infection and acute diaretic disease…a scary thing to hear when you are a long way from home for sure. But the Doctor put me at ease and said it was not critical….phew…but he did put me on five different medications..and on a very strict diet for five days. No dairy, no eggs, no pop, no fish, no chocolate (that was the hardest
Blue Footed Boobies
There were so many boobies we just couldn´t handle it! to give up), no spicy and greasy food and definitely no cake or alcohol. I felt 100 times better leaving and all in all the diet was not so hard to handle….and Jack, although not sick did the diet with me, so for the duration of our trip to the Galapagos we pretty much were on bread, rice, potatoes and meat. But that is now behind us and today was our first day back on regular food and boy did we polish off those delicious pizzas!
Magic Land Part II: The Continuation
Our guides name was Juan. He was a muscular, shaved head, black Galapagan man, who right from the beginning instilled confidence in his abilities, and was fun to be with.
After 10 minutes getting our group together, we took the 5 minute trip to Baltra´s small harbour, and the real adventure began. We could see our red boat, the Encantada motor sailor (the only one in the Galapagos) in the distance as we approached. The boat holds 12 passengers, and a crew of 6: Captain, Guide, Driver, Bartender, Cook, and Engineer.
We saw our first sea lions right off the bus. They were
Jack and Jackie, on the Panga
In Black Turtle Cove, watching Turtles get it on sprawled out lying on the benches at the docks. We waited about 10 minutes for the boat to refuel, during which we all watched the 20 or so sea lions and crabs, and then got into the Panga (Dingy) for the ride to the boat. We got into out bare feet, had a quick tour of the boat, and then got settled into out cabins.
We were in number 6, at the back of the boat. A small set of bunk beds, and an equally small private bathroom. The foot print of the shower was about 4 square feet. We dropped out stuff, grabbed what we needed, and head up to the dining area for lunch.
We didn´t eat the the Tuna, but had plenty of vegetables. It was all delicious, and we quickly spoke to our guide, who let the guide know about our dietary needs (they were all very accommodating with it. Excellent service all around.)
Black Turtle Cove
Our first expedition took place that afternoon after 45 minutes of navigating to Black Turtle Cove. We loaded into the Panga and went to shore where we had our first sighting of the famous
A Turtle in Heat
Lookin to get it on... Blue Footed Boobies. Spectacular they are, expecially when you see them dive from 50 feet into the sea to feed.
We proceeded into the cove to try and spot the sea turtles that give the cove its name. And boy did we see them.
Our guide told us to keep our eyes on the sea, and that it would be exciting to see the turtles mating.
We saw a turtle here and there, under the water. They were very large, and very magnificent. It is quite exciting to see them come up for air, and make the hollow puffing sound as they breath.
Juan took us in deep. We all crouched to the floor of the Panga, and we proceeded under the mangrove forest that made up the entire cove, and emerged in a secluded section with many turtles to be seem. Upon returning out, we had the pleasure to see the turtles mate….and mate…and mate….in a group…..the Galapagos Orgy as Juan described it.
The first pair we saw were just getting started. They bumped faces something reminiscent of kissing, and played with each other. The second pair we saw were getting it on….fully. The
male was on the back of the female, riding her….¨humping¨ if you will. We watched for nearly 10 minutes as they did circles in the water, the lady doing her best to keep them both afloat. At least 3 other males circled, watching the grand affair. Juan told us this would go on for a minimum of 30 minutes, and a maximum of 3 hours. A marathon for sure.
We let them be, and headed back for the boat. In total, we saw, blue footed boobies, frigate birds, countless crabs, many turtles, a great blue heron (apparently very rare here), and a few other species of birds. A great first adventure.
We retired to the boat, had nice warm showers, a nice dinner of baked chicken with a mushroom sauce, pasta, and salad (if I remember correctly.) We had our after dinner briefing of the next days events, and went off to bed.
Navigation began at 2am, and ended at about 6am. We slept right through it for the most part, even though the engines running were very loud at night, even with earplugs. It´s a good thing we were asleep before it began.
Rabida
Jackie and her Cactus
It´s not really hers.... she just thinks it is! and Bartolome: Bathing, Sunburns and Tower Rock
We woke to see Rabida Island from out port. Red cliffs, and a red sand beach could be seen, along with several sea lions of the shore. There were clouds in the sky, but were all hoped for sun.
A quick breakfast, and we were off.
We had a wet landing on the red sand beach, which meant you hopped off the Panga into the water and walked ashore, and were greeted by several sea lions, dropped out stuff, and after a few photos were off on our hike. We hike the beautiful interesting volcanic Island trail for about an hour. The sun came out along the trail, and in the end, gave us both a pretty mean sun burn. We saw the interesting cactus trees on the island, the holy stick tree (that is the source of local incense, not form the islands of course), many lizards, hermit crabs, sea lions, birds a plenty, cliff with blue waters, and much more.
After an enlightening hour on the trail, we headed back to the beach for an hour of snorkling. We all had gear provided on the tour, and
Rabida Island
Blue waters below a wonderful cliff we strapped out selves in and headed out. The water was warm, and clear. I had never snorkelled before, Jackie had, and we went into see what we could. Big tropical fish were immediately at our feet. Bid schools below that I dove to visit with. Star fish lined the ocean floor 20 feet below. We followed the rock wall, as this is where most of the action happened. It was spectacular. Like nothing I´d ever seen.
From what I understand, it wasn´t the best snorkling on earth, but it was magnificent for me. I could do that all day long.
We came back to shore, and headed back to the boat for lunch, and our 2 hour journey to Isla Bartolome.
We all read on the deck, got even more burned, and before long were at Bartolome. WE had a nice lunch, and were on our way to shore…this time for a dry landing.
A note about Island visits. When you return from an island, you have to wash all the sand off your bags, gear, shoes, sandals, clothes and self, before getting back onto the boat. The boat has a little shower at the
Jack, Post-Snorkle
Lookin for stuff....under water.... back to wash, and a bucket to wash snorkel gear. Very cool. It appeared to be a very well managed park…and for a hundred dollars…I should hope so.
We hike the trail up to the summit of Bartolome, where the view over the island and it´s tower rock are unforgettable, and a standard Galapagos promo shot. The trail up was very interesting. Where Rabida was 2 million years old, all the Ilsands are completely oceanic and pretty much brand new, Bartolome was only half a million years old. It was covered in ash, with very little vegetation. Rabida was in comparison covered in trees and life, but Bartolome was practically barren, and supported little life. The views were spectacular, and lesson from our excellent guide very interesting.
We descended, returned to the boat to change, and then went to the beach, this time golden sand, for swimming, relaxing, photos, snorkling, and fun….with a wet landing. The clouds came in, and it got a bit chilly, so we didn´t swim…and the countless rays in the water were a touch unsettling. We walked, took photos, played in the sand, and watched the family, including bull male, of sea lions as
The Deck of the Encantada
Good for lounging, reading and getting burned they relaxed at the end of the beach.
We bored the Panga back to the boat, but before returning we did a little Peguin safari. Bartolome is one of the few islands in the Galapagos to host the Galapagos Penguin. And we were quite lucky to spot several standing on the rocks. Quite amazing. I really wanted to spot some penguins on this trip. How lucky are we.
We returned to the boat, showered, relaxed, again had a nice dinner, a briefing of tomorrow, and off to bed. But this time we began navigating at 9pm. We were still awake when it began. We slept well, with few problems, but this 8 hour journey into the north, over the equator, would turn out to be a breeze compared to the night that followed.
We arrived at Genovesa more or less refreshed.
Isla Genovesa…A Northern Paradise
Again, we woke to a new Island. We could see a few boats anchored around us, 5 I think. Ours was the smallest. You could see that we were in a bay of sorts, surrounded by land on all sides. I believe we were inside the crater of the
volcano that formed this island.
Our breakfast came fast, and was yummy. Our breakfast, because of our diet was usually just bread with jam or honey and some fruit. Not bad really. The others enjoyed eggs, french toast and other delicious things...and we had bread.
We left for the island, another wet landing, this time with shoes...beacuse the trails were very rocky and would have been tough with sandals...and we were both burned on our feet so we appreciated the protection from the sun. We were on Darwin beach I believe it was called.
In the previous days breifing of Genovesa, Juan told us to expect the following....frigates and boobies and frigates and boobies. Click click, clack clack (his favorite sound effects.) And we saw plenty of both.
Sea lions again greeted us on the gorgeous white sand (eroded coral) beach. We dropped our stuff, and began our one hour hike.
We saw lots of boobies. We saw our first baby boobies, which was super cool. They were baby Nasca (masked) boobies, and were fluffy white with silly dark faces. They were both cute and kind of grotesque.
We saw our first Nasca boobies,
Jack, Juan, and Jackie
Notice his shirt....isn´t that cute. He would coordinate his shirts with the islands we were on. Clever dude! red footed boobies (with babies), lava herons, lots of frigates, and red billed tropic birds as well (or was that the day before?)
There was one large mangrove forest/bush thing, that was absolutely ful of birds. Nests everywhere, birds perched everywhere, it was truly amazing. The animals really didn´t run from you. You could stand there close to them, and they would basically ignore you. What a pleasure. Even little birds in trees, they would fly within feet of you, and just sit there. In Canada that is basically unheard of. If you move, they fly so fast so far from you...you don´t have time to observe them. But here, in Magic land, you have as much time as you want to observe these animals.
After our walk, which was again wonderful and enlightening, we went for another nice swim. This time the snorkling didn´t work so well beacuse the surf was a bit heavy and it stirred up the sandy bottom of the ocean and reduced visibility to near zero. So we swam. And it was wonderfull. The water was gorgeous and warm. Bright blue, and perfectly tropical. Really amazing. With sea lions on the sand, and
Sea Lions on Bartolome
Part of an entire family that was relaxing at the end of the beach us in the water, it was really spectacular.
We went back to the boat for lunch and a siesta, which I did take advantage of, and then were back on the island, but this time on the other side. We disembarked in a dry landing on Philip´s Step, named for Prince Philip, who disembarked here over fifty years ago, and for some reason had it named after him.
We walked a long one hour trail in the scorching sun where we observed lots of iguanas and birds...boobies and frigates and tropic birds and this time Storm Petrels. At the edge of the island we arrived at a cliff edge (sort of) and there were hundred of birds flying in all directions, practically blackening the sky. It was like swarms of moquitos. It was amazing.
We also on this little leg saw our first glimps of the male Frigate birds with their red puches inflated. I hped to see this. Score. It was hot, and we were all very exhausted under the burning tropical sun, so we made for the boat and back to the shade and breeze on the boat.
Again, showers, dinner, and briefings followed,
Tower Rock and the Beach
And Jackie....from behind... but this time quite early, as we were to begin navigating at 6pm, for the 10 hour journey down to South Plazas Island.
At first the navigation was romantic and wonderful. Sitting on the deck, with the breeze and the sunset, it was spectacular. Once the sun was down and the chills came, we headed inside and prepared for bed. But the rocking of the boat was too severe for either of us to relax. Up down, side to side....all with the loud sounds of the motor in the back ground.
We were both worried about getting no sleep, and getting sick, so we lied together and hoped to fall asleep. No luck. We were both feeling naueous, and wishing the rocking would stop, knowing it wouldn´t, so we went up to the dining area and hoped fresh air would help.
A few others were still up there drinkng coffee and playing games, and giving us the advice that the fresh air, and tryign to sleepwould be best. Jackie lied on the bench, head in my lap and tried to sleep. I closed my eyes and hoped for the best. It was rough.
After an hour
or so we decided to go back down and try to fall asleep. No luck. In 20 minutes we were back on top, this time in the dark, everyone had goen to bed, lying on the bench in the dining room, trying to sleep. It was such an improvement. The fresh air rushing in was such a relief. And it was very beautiful in the dark with the lights out.
The moon shined over head bright in a crescent, shimmering on the water illuminating the sea. The stars were thick above us, gleaming everywhere. These were the first stars we saw on the trip. I had my head poking out the window with a huge silly smile on my face for 5 minutes gawking like a child at the stars in wonder. It was truly spectacular.
I lied back down, and was off to sleep.
At about 1am we went down to our cabin, and both slept reasonably well until about 6am for our early wake up. It was very still in the morning, which was nice to wake up to.
So, it turns out we avoided the disaster that would have been vomiting on a
boat. Yeah! And the next day began.
South Plazas, Isla Santa Cruz and Puerto Ayora
South Plazas Island was a very little island. But with lots to admire.
After our breakfast and the dry landing, we were told we were entering an area often heavily populated with exhausted bull male sea lions. Interesting! And this was an island where we would be able to see the land igaunas in action.
The land iguanas were quite cool. Bright orange, spiky spines on their backs, different colours adorning there flesh. And again, super docile. The Galapagos are amazing.
We walked a cliff where we saw countless Frigates and boobies, and this time also huge Pelicans flying just over our heads, soaring on the winds, rarely flappign there huge wings.
We also saw the ¨elevators¨that the the bull males took to arrive ont he island. They wouldn´t climb the easy slope up from the channel, as that was the territory of the various males on the island, so the climbed the cliffs on the opposite side. Truly amazing. These are trails I would feel extremely uncomfortable having to climb, and these clumsy animals would, click click
click....climb right up, with ease. Amazing.
It is interesting to note in all of this what Darwin said when investigating the animals and plants of the islands:
¨It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change.¨
The bull sea lions clumsiness matters not, it is his perserverence to live in teh conditions around him, to adapt to climbing that cliff, that has made the sea lion what it is today....Everywhere.
And we were off....on our way to the main port in the Islands, Puerta Ayora, and the Darwin Research Station, the home of the great Lonesome George.
The Island and town itself was very nice. The waters in the port were gorgeous blue green, with sail bots docked, and water taxis about. We disembarked after lunch, and went to the station.
This is the centre of research and conservation on the islands. We got a quick introduction to the facility, and then were learning about how the Giant Land Tortoises are bred in the station to repopulate the islands. Crude, cheap, and effective incubators made of
Jack and Jackie
On the beautiful white sand beach of Genovesa Island with some sea lion friends plastic containers, plastic bags, simple light bulbs and hair dryers are used to hatch the little guys.
Then we saw the little guys in action. After hatching they are put into little natural surround pens to grow, before being released into an increasingly realistic pen, and then eventually released on the islands themselves, to live out there more than one hundred year of life.
These things are truly enormous. Really. They can be 200 kilos, and are enormous.
And then there is Lonesome George. Lonesome George is the last of a race of Land Tortoises, the Pinta Island race, having been found by accident on the island, the last of his race. He is 90 or so years old, and refused to mate. He lives in a pen with several lady tortoises of the most similar race, but he just won´t do it...do the what what with them. They have tried everything, even having other tortoises get it on in front of him. Nada.
So, Lonesome George is apparently hard to see. He is often out of sight in his pen, behind a rock, and many people go home disappointed. Not us.
There he was.
A Baby Boobie
A Nazca or Masked Boobie....they should for sure be in Cottonelle commercials In all his glory. Lonesome as ever, ignoring the lady tortoise right there with him. But he was there. Our guide was extatic to have hime there, and so were we. Lots has been written about this famous guy. Three cheers for Lonesome George. Go get em man.
We saw more, larger Tortoises, up close and personal, more land iguanas, and then were off to the Hotel and to dinner.
We forrtunately for Jackie and I, were staying on land the last night. The hotel was very nice. The Grand Hotel Lobo de Mar. Private room, private huge bathroom, TV, AC, balcony. Not bad. I say fortunately beacuse of our experience the last night with the motion of the ocean. We were both infact still rocking back and forth. It was weird. Like bieng drunk and dizzy, on land, without drinking anything. Very strange.
Dinner was simple but good, and we retired for a great nights sleep, with our last day in front of us.
Isla Santa Cruz Highlands, and our Return to Quito
We woke with little trouble, but didn´t have aview out our port hole. No boat, no port. And comfy beds
Jack Trying to Fit Into the Crowd
They were the cool sea lions...I swear to boot.
A simple breakfast and we were all packed and ready to go. We loaded into a bus with Juan, and were on our way into the highlands to see the sights: A large lava tunnel and wild Giant Tortoises.
The tunnel was quite cool....just a tunnel inthe ground, but romed by lava. And the giant tortosies were like the last day, only this time loose on a farm, where they are free to roam in and out at will. The farmers on the Island have to leave holes in their fences to allow the passage of these great creatures.
And that was that. We were off to the airport by 10 am.
After an hour we were at the airport, checking in and saying goodbye to Juan our spectacular guide. He was amazing. The Encantada would get or recommendation based on him alone. Really a wonderful and extremely knwledgable guy.
And before we knew it, we were on a plane back to Guayaquil, and after an hour on the ground, and a half an hour in the air, were back in Quito. Just like that it was all over.
The Galapagos:
I call this one ¨Jumping¨...
Jack jumping for joy off the end of the boat What Lessons Learned
Sea sickness is real, and Jackie and I are prone to it. Lesson number one is that. We have to consider that for the future.
But really, the Galapagos Islands were amazing. Like the title of this entry says, we were 1000 miles from Ecuador, but 6 billion years in the past. That is what it felt like. Like being in a primordial earthen past.
Bartolome Island was only half a million years old. The earth is over 6 billion. This is the past trapped in time. For us to view. Truly spectacular. These islands were never connected to the mainland, and appear, in both flora and fauna, and landscape, to be frozen in time, a martian earth landscape, boggling our minds.
Truly a once in a lifetime experience. A nature lovers paradise and a thinkers wonderland.
Thank you Tom, Nadine, Mark, Musia, Tatus, Carole and Jack. Without you all we would not have gone, and we would be worse for it. You are our family, and we love you dearly. Thank you from the bottom of our sea sick hearts for giving us this amazing adventure.
We will be seeing
Frigate Bird with Pouch Inflated
Again...another animal....lookin to get it on you soon....tomorrow in fact. We love you all, and we will be home safe and sound in 32 hours.
It has been an amazing trip.
Jack Bernacki and Jackie King
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Tom Bernacki
non-member comment
Wow, what an incredible experience
Jack and Jackie, the trip couldn't have ended on a more amazing note. What a life changing experience. I am so glad that you were able to get to the Galapagos. Even though it is sort of sad that the trip is ending nearly a month early, the experiences you had will no doubt last a lifetime. God, and your photos are amazing. And the stories (on all of the blog entries) are awesome too! Have a safe trip, and we can't wait to see you both again!