Swimming with Sea Lions and Penguins: Puerto Villamil Harbour

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Friday 5^th December 2014



On Wednesday we moved from the hostel to the Hotel Albemarle, by the beach. One knew one was in a hotel immediately, because there was a hairdryer in the bathroom; haven´t seen one of those in weeks! We didn´t actually get to use it! We also had a balcony overlooking the sea. Wow! We backpackers really know how to rough it!



Thursday was another very special day, because it was the first time we have managed to take photographs of sea lions underwater, whilst snorkelling. When swimming off the beach, they rarely come close enough to photograph, or if they do, we don´t see them. One can be swimming along, see a sea lion on the beach and the next minute they have swam past and away out to sea. So, on Thursday, we walked down to the harbour, where there are mangrove lagoons and small inlets in the bay, inhabited by hundreds of sea lions. It is important to keep away from the big macho males, but the young ones and females are fine to swim near. The young pups swim so close you could touch them. We had them playing and swimming all around us. It was a magical experience. A



few penguins decided to swim around us too, as well as marine Iguanas and rays: we saw two sting rays and a golden ray in the water, but after we had got back on the dock; we didn´t see any rays whilst we were in the water. It is impossible to imagine anywhere else on earth where wildlife is as abundant as in the Galapagos. Sea lions can be seen crossing the roads, asleep on park benches, happily swimming around tourists, and simply getting on with their lives. Meanwhile, iguanas wander along the beaches, penguins, frigates, gulls, boobies and pelicans go fishing, and the rays and the sharks lurk around somewhere or other.



Most species of penguin swim in waters too cold for humans. The Galapagos Penguins, who are, like so many other creatures on these islands, a unique species, swim happily in the warm equatorial currents that we are experiencing at the moment here, as well as the cold currents that pass through these waters periodically. These little guys have evolved to cope with both. Therefore, it is a rare opportunity indeed, to share the water with these little fellows. We have been extremely lucky because the cold currents that are often here at this time of year are late coming. The ocean is warm, there has been no need to hire wet suits and the animals are active and playful.



Sea lions in the Galapagos have never had man as a predator, as has often been the case elsewhere, so they are not shy and show no fear. To them, we are just another animal sharing their space but not eating their fish. Anglers note, there is strictly no fishing in these islands, so leave the rods at home, just bring your snorkels and masks. The only creatures that are scared of us are the Giant Tortoises (unlike their cousins the Giant Turtles, who usually completely ignore us as they swim by). Thousands of Giant Tortoises were taken aboard pirate ships and whaling vessels (in the living memory of these animals who live to an average of 160 years). The tortoises can live for several weeks without food or water, so they were a source of fresh meat for the sailors. When one approaches a tortoise it is important to move very slowly, otherwise he/she will just tuck in his/her head and legs and pretend to be a rock.



Today is our last day on Isla Isabela. We woke up to find that it had rained in the night and the hotel was without electricity or water (which is pumped electrically). So, having treated ourselves to a bit of luxury for a few nights, we ended up getting a bucket of water to flush the loo! Such is life! Actually, it didn´t take them long to get it sorted out and we enjoyed a good breakfast and got a hot shower, before packing and checking out. We are now just chilling out for a few hours until our “ferry” leaves at 3 p.m. The little speed boat is called “Brithany 2” (pronounced “Brittany”); a tad different to the Brittany ferries that cross the English Channel! It is a cloudy blustery day so we are not expecting it to be enjoyable. Assuming that we survive the Pacific on “Brithany 2” we shall blog again in either Santa Cruz or back in Quito. So long, ´til then.



Postscript…the crossing was OK and the ATMs here in Santa Cruz have money in them, so all is well!

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Photos

Sea lion pup
"Who are you looking at?"

Swimming with sea lions
Awesome!

"I say, chaps. A balcony AND a hairdryer!"
"We backpackers know how to rough it!"

John and a sea lion pup
Harbour beach

Angry dad!
...guarding his harem

...and another
...darting through the water

Beer arriving, empties leaving
Everything comes in by sea