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Published: August 9th 2010
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Mother and daughter
On the other end of that lasso is a herd of llamas... On my way to Quito, I decided to check out the area to the south which is known for its volcanoes and indigenous villages. The hub for activities into this area- the town of Latacunga- is kind of dingy and underwhelming (adios organic, vegetarian meals of BaƱos and hello cheese and mayonaisse sandwiches...) For me, the best part of the town was the funky 70's mannequins peeking out of every store. So, after securing a bottom bunk in one of the only hostels in town, I quickly took off for some memorable daytrips.
The Quilotoa loop travels through the countryside, passing several small villages and rural communities before arriving at Quilotoa lake which is situated in a volcanic crater. I visited it with a pair of cheerful Irish folks and we hiked from the edge of the crater down to the lake to check out the calm, dark green water. Locals say the lake has no bottom and I will vouch that it looks pretty durn deep. There was a little boy herding sheep by the water, so we watched them scramble over the rocks for a while. You can continue past the lake and hike/ hitch to other villages,
eventually completing the loop. Alas, this takes a few days, so I'll have to save that for next time....
So after some serious natural beauty, we were lucky to encounter some serious cultural beauty. Simple, hard-working people inhabit this land. Most of the people are indigenious and many live in basic huts with straw roofs and walls. They are primarily subsistence farmers that carry themselves with remarkable grace and dignity. The women usually wear brightly colored blouses and shawls, beaded necklaces, skirts, kneesocks, and my favorite accessory- the felt hat with a large peacock feather tucked neatly in the band. They wrap their long braids with colorful fabric. And it is with this detailed attire that they tend to their daily duties. I was lucky to snap a couple of my favorite photos this trip with one simple trick: apples. As we wound our way through the mountains, we stopped to offer apples to young children which opened the door to some basic conversation and often a photo or two. I was shocked at how much younger than their actual age the children appear. I have found it difficult to guess ages here and kids are no exception. Which
Quilotoa Area
A common family home. may explain why its very culturally normal for people to ask the age of strangers here. Peeople seem quite proud of their age and are eager to share it. Funny.
And speaking of age, travelling through the countryside, I was struck by the shapes that peoples' bodies take. Hands are bent and bumpy- no doubt from years of serious work. Faces are deeply crinkled and tanned. Feet are small and sturdy. And smiles can be hard to come by. The body here labors- in fields, houses and streets. It is common to see women who appear over 70 hauling giant loads of wood/veggies/household goods tied onto their back with a large scarf (which, true to the Ecuatorian way, is usually colorful). I am impressed by the way that tasks (market, laundry, transportation) are carried out with simplicity and patience. We passed more than a few herds of livestock slowly sauntering down the main road- usually led by a school-age child or an entire family. It may take a couple of honks and some waiting to pass by in a car. This is not a place for iphones, deadlines or warm showers. It is a place for quiet, simple living
and the vibe is totally contagious...
On our travels, we also passed a little community called Tigua which is famous for its colorful paintings that depict the people's lives. They use sheep hide as canvas and tips of feathers as paintbrushes. This is a talent/skill that is shared among families. We stopped at a few stands to find paintings from the grandfather, children, aunts, cousins, etc. Very detailed and optimistic art that focuses on the seasons and celebrations in the village. Had to make a little room in the backpack after that trip!
The next day, I checked out a market in Saquisilli- a little village about 30 minutes busride from Latacunga. Their Thursday morning markets are a big too-do. It covered about 5 or 6 plazas and contained such wonders as women selling cuys and rabbits from giant fur-filled, squeaking baskets and rows and rows of freshly prepared food using every animal part (including rampant pig snouts.) Though, I opted for my favorite- freshly made tortilla de maize and some amazing fried bananas. Market-strolling continues to be one of my favorite ways to get the vibe of a town and Saquisilli showed me how beautiful and lively
Quilotoa Lake
Dark green water in a volcanic crater. a Thursday can be in a chaotic, shabby little town. So... freshly infused with appreciation for the people that live here, I set out for Quito to catch a plane to the Galapagos where I live aboard a boat for eight days and check-out the life in those parts... Hasta luego :-)
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