And the Southern highlands

---

Laguna Quilotoa was our next stop - a volcanic crater lake, which erupted about 200 years ago. Seeing this area, which is similar to where the vast majority of the indigenous population live, once again confirmed to us that on the whole indigenous people of formerly colonised countries have it really tough. In this area they live at altitudes of between 3,000-4,000 metres, coping with bitterly cold winds, freezing temperatures obviously with no electricity, running water and in homes made of mud and straw. They farm land on the sides of mountains with only their hands having to walk for hours to even get there, I´m not sure how they manage it.


The crater itself is stunning with turquoise water, it feels extremely remote. You can walk around the crater and down into it - you can even get a taxi back (in the form of a mule or donkey) if it all gets a little bit too much. We stopped in at the market in Zumbahua, very much a local market and not for tourists, especially the live-stock section, which turned out to be more of an abattoir - the smell was a harsh wake up call at 9am!


Banos is a cozy small town nestled in between mountains, it was evacuated last year when Volcan Tungurahua erupted once again (when Hayley and Lo were in the vicinity!) but now everything is back to normal. We had a few days here and went mountain biking, the scenery is spectacular, massive green hills dotted with waterfalls with the main one being "Pailon del Diablo". You bike very close to the side of the cliffs and at the start you have to go through one of the road tunnels - even though you could see to the other end, when you were in the middle it is pitch black so that you can´t see the walls or anything -very scary, especially with buses whizzing past you, tooting their horns so that you crash into the side! The thermal baths were another good thing about Banos, although the hot pool was absolutely boiling - my face went bright red much to everyone´s amusement..I even got a few pats on the face, I don´t think they had ever seen anyone go such a colour!


The affluent town of Cuenca was our last proper stop in Ecuador - after a failed attempt to get on the famous train, part of which is known as "Nariz del Diablo" the devils nose, (the train has been plagued by strikes for the last months or so and now it is apparently out of order) we settled in Cuenca for an uncharacteristically rainy few days. It also happened to be over the weekend and everything was completely shut down - the only things that were open, come rain or shine are the ice-cream parlours..I never thought that this was possible but they love ice-cream even more than the Aussies and the Kiwi´s!


We crossed into Peru on the 14th August and drastically as I´m sure you are aware the country was shook by the 8.0 magnitude earthquake on the 15th. Fortunately for us we are currently in Trujillo some 300 miles north of the affected areas of Ica and Pisco, so just to let you all know that we are both ok. Reports are confusing as to the rescue efforts and progress just now and we know little of what is going on but hopefully the area will get the aid and support that is required.

---

Photos

Laguna Quilotoa
Taxi!

Volcan Chimborazo
Ecuador´s highest peak at 6,310m

Cuenca
The blue domes of the new cathedral

Banos
Pailon del Diablo waterfall

Comments

[Roddy]

They do luv their Ice creams don't they! Glad you're both still alive, lots of luv xxx