BIG XMAS FAMILY - WOW!!

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So I arrived in San Gil to find all of the unexpected, to come back to myself, and to make a one-eighty in all my plans. Here I would set out a foundation for a new path in my life - I was about to take a turn that was going to take me on a journey for years, and maybe for the rest of my life…

We arrived rather late in the afternoon in this most majestic old colonial town, built of old white thick tapia homes (tapia is a technique in which they build walls by filling spaces boarded by wooden boards with clay, similar to adobe but different), topped with beautiful clay roofs. We put our bags in our two story room, in Fernando’s (Luzma’s husband and Edgar’s father) father, Papa Alcides’ family home. The large 200 year old home, was something you would write stories about, and had been in the family for 5 generations. It had a large courtyard in the center to which all of the dozen or so rooms opened to. It was beautiful, and Fernando’s father, a distinguished lawyer, and well respected community member, and his wife, received us with such warmth and kindness. In fact Sr. Alcides took a great liking to me and even made a toast in my honor on Christmas Eve, thanking god for the privilege of having the company of the wonderful Canadian lady, Vivian, who (and I quote), is an extraordinary women, with much courage and many talents, and a true pleasure to meet… WOW, what flattery! Thanks papa Alcides.

That night we took advantage of San Gil’s gorgeous temperate nights, and went for a walk in the famous park… I forget what it’s called but it was spectacular, with large ceiba trees, covered in hanging ferns, bridges crossing rolling streams that join the rushing river Fonce, and Christmas lights to light the whole way by night!

The next morning we had a traditional Santaderian breakfast, which is quite hardy. It always consists of a special soup, of herbs, spices, potatoes, and an egg, slices of fresh cheese, with hot chocolate, and bread, and usually a fresh juice of whatever fruit, and milk. -and this was breakfast everyday!! (Lunch was usually giant tomolies, and traditional thick soup, and dinner, cheese with hot chocolate, or hot milk with brown sugar, and bread- yes the cheese goes with the chocolate, not the bread!).

After a fun trip to the market, and drinking my most favorite smoothie of boroho with brandy, milk, and who knows what, we finally took a taxi over to the small town called Curuti, located close to Fernando’s mother’s farm, Mama Cecilia (Fernando’s parents were divorced).

As we stepped out of the taxi I noticed Jorge’s smiling face. His handsome face was coming towards me, and I knew he was there to pick us up and take us to the farm. I put my bag in the car, and insisted on walking over with Edgar after exploring the charming little town all lit up in XMAS lights. Edgar and I walked up toward the farm in the dark on the broken, uneven, muddy, and steep road. It was not too far, and it reminded me of the difficult walks you use to do when you were a kid, especially the part about walking in mud in the dark. Lol.

Anyways we got to Fernando’s mother’s farm, Sra. Cecilia. Mama Cecilia was a delightful woman with strength and spice. She welcomed us in the large simple home, and gave me my own room and bed (but only for that night, as we were expecting 25 more guests soon (all Fernando’s brothers and sisters, nieces, nephews, etc., and they all the rest from Luzma’s side in the next few days to come, like a rotation of families). Nonetheless I would be fine with staying in my hammock, although I can’t say I loved the ICE ICE ICE cold showers, ouch!! Anyways, after a traditional hot chocolate, cheese and bread bedtime meal off to bed I went, but not before reading a Colombian geography book in Spanish for about 2 hours…

The following morning I awoke to find the kitchen table already set with a large country Santanderian breakfast. Jorge was in the kitchen making fresh chocolate from the cocoa beans he had just finished roasting, Luzma was hovering around making sure everybody had a full plate, Mama Alcides was preparing coffee, and everything looked tasty and divine. I spent most of the day just hanging out and enjoying the fresh country air, and after a quick nap, Jorge gave me a salsa lesson with his chocolate covered hands. Lol

Over the next several days, between the arrival of dozens of family members between Mama Cecilia’s country farm, and papa Alcides’ grand house in San hill, I became a ping pong ball between the two houses, doing yoga in the grand house’s courtyard, or practicing karate on the farm, and Luzma usually coordinated most of the plans, deciding when to bounce the families back and forth. I didn’t mind since I enjoyed the family atmosphere, all the people, and both homes very much. However, group excursions to see the sites proved to be gruesome. I realized more than ever, how I am not a person of much patience, and why I prefer to travel alone. -But I also, got to learn more about Colombian families, and the precious love, respect, and tightness they have within them, a completely different dynamic to what I’ve been use to.

Well anyways, upon returning back to the farm we all decided to go the “the meza”, which is the name of the mountain the family owned, all 200 plus hectares. It was an amazingly fun 40 minute ride on the back to the pickup with the kids, widing the rough mountain rodes, until finaly we reached the base of the mountain. We began to climb and it took us no more than 30-40 minutes to reach the top, although the climb was a little stiff.

Up top I temporarily left the heard of the 20 some odd squaking pigeons and climbed a rock right on the cliffs edge. I dangled my feet off, giving me butterflies in my stomach from the height, and I smiled with joy as I looked up and saw the breataking canyon before me, surrounded by the immerse mountain range that seemed to spread out in all directions. Wow…. What peace… what beauty… So terrific. I sat there still, almost meditating for about 15 minutes until the squad sent a small soldier to retrieve the lost troop. Following orders I retreated back to the group. We headed up another mirador to fuss over group photos, as they partitioned snacks all around. We then walked the top of the Meza, through the rolling grass lands, the sights were priceless, and you could even see snowy-tipped Nevada mountains in some cases.

Jorge was our guide, as he knew his mountain best, and he took us into a small forest where there was a secret cave. We crawled into the wet cave and saw little bats stuck the roof, as you find bats in almost every cave. After crawling out the afternoon was growing late and group tired, so we split up and Jorge, Edgar, and I went off to check out a beach Jorge had discovered. It was actually quite incredible because this beach, on top of the mountain, was made by crushing this stuff that appeared like rock, but when you broke it, it was soft, smooth, white beach sand. Jorge had a plan to come back and crush all the rock, which was easy, and make a gigantic beach to relax on. Sure why not!

Well, as the rest of the group was waiting for us and whining to go home we had to pick up the pace. Jorge had already taken off and Edgar and I were lagging behind in the distance. “hurry up, RUN!” Edgar whined. -but I don’t want to. LAZY! -no Edgar, its not that, this place is gorgeous and seeing as how I am enjoying every minute as I would a lover’s company, why would I rush? -but, being impatient and young, he kept whining until finally I said FINE.

I started to run up the hill towards the group. It was a little stiff, but as it goes with running, the more I ran the more power and determination I had. I ran until I met up with the group, and we were at the top of the steep path down, which led to the trucks. “I’ll race you”, cried Jorge. Sure! Dale! (means let’s go).

I began to run down the hill, but cautiously as it was steep and the slippery rocks moved from time to time. Jorge passed me, as he was crazier than I, but once he was out of sight, my body turned into machine mode. I started to navigate the rocks faster, and faster, and faster, and faster, until I was running down the cliff at full speed. It was amazing to fell the gravity propelling me, almost like a fictions force, all I had to do was tap dance my feet in such a manner as to avoid falling. I loved running downhill as terrible as it was for my knees, and as much as it would hurt later.

Eventually I reached the bottom, where several of the group, along with Jorge, were waiting by the jeeps, but I couldn’t stop! -and not because I physically couldn’t, but like a wild horse, I had too much inertia, and too much thrill, and too much joy, that it was far more preferable to keep going and run it out. I passed by them like lightning (ok maybe that was just my imagination, and maybe it was more the speed of light bulb, nevertheless quickly), and I kept running down the mountain road. I ran and I ran, and ran, and now the ground was even and beginning to flatten out, so I ran faster, and faster, until my lungs asked me to slow. As I kept running, the road began to rise, and fall, and rise, and during the uphill segments my muscles had to strain and pump to keep me going, but everything was coordinating to keep me going. Eventually, I tired and began to walk, but a quick and happy speed. It was more the pain in my knees, than anything that forced me walk, but by this time I had been running for at least half an hour (and much of it down steep cliff).

I continued to walk, for maybe another 20 minutes, until I came to a fork in the road. I was forced to stop as I didn’t know which direction to turn- I would have gladly gone all the way home. I waited for about 20-25 minutes until finally the trucks appeared, and hitched a ride back to the farm.

Awww…. What a GREAT DAY!! I was finally feeling like me again, full of energy, and just wanting to do more and more… It had been a while since I felt this energy…

We got back, and to my surprise off we went back to San Gil- who knows why… But it was ok because I enjoyed the house, and most of all a HOT, or warmish shower. Lol

So I continued to be a ping pong between San Gil and Curuti over the next few days, and in the meantime I managed to go white water rafting with the family (baby class 2, a joke, but fun), and rappel 80 m down a waterfall (but too much tension on the rope made if really slow and not so exciting). We also took a day to visit Barrichara, a gorgeous old colonial town, with spectacular mountain views, and Charala, another cute colonial town where we ate freshly made cheese with panela treats we picked up from a trapiche (the place they make sugar from sugar cane) that we visited earlier that day.

Christmas eve we started at Papa Alcides, with the WHOLE (like 30 plus) family, and ended at Mama Cecelia’s. So much food and great fun! I felt happy to be able to watch the closeness of this Colombian family and get to participate in all their traditions, and Jorge gave me another lesson in Salsa. They, like most Colombian, were very religious, and so there were always praying and talk of God, thanking him for everything etc. -but I must say that the religiousness of these people really made them better people, warmer, kinder, more giving, the way religion should influence a person (but seldom does).

The next few days were much of the same, and as much as I enjoyed my new friends company, who were beginning to feel more like family, I knew it was time for me to move on. I was starting to feel really impatient and I needed some alone time. I was also frustrated because I wanted to start working on the new project I was developing but was finding it impossible to do so.

New Year’s eve we spent at Mama Cecilia’s. I spent the day horse riding on the most perfect mare, obedient but full of energy to run, however she didn’t not have the ability to run faster than a swift gallop, like many of the crazy horses I had mounted previously. Later in the evening, a friend, Manual, Luzma’s brother Carlos, Edgar, and I passed by curiti to have a couple beer in the bustling center square, the most fun I would have all evening.

We returned in time to find Jorge leaving for Bucaramanga to spend time with his daughter, and missing the delicious tomali meal we were all about to share. We toasted the new year listening to bad vallenatto music, and nobody was there to kiss me at midnight, and so I can’t say I entered the new year happy, but you can’t always get what you want…

The next day I set out with the whole family in two overcrowded jeeps to see the beautiful Panachi park, which was a mountain park whose attractions were a gondola over spectacular mountain vistas, over the chicamoche canyon, and a crazy zip line cable ride, which I had to do!! I decided to take all my things as the family was going to stop by Bucaramanga (a major city) before heading back to the farm, and so I figured I could jump off there and find my way around Colombia.

Anyways, we arrived at Panachi, and the family decided not to enter the park, for the 6 dollar entrance was too steep, and so I went in alone. I have to say I had been feeling a little frustrated over the impotence of the last few days, but riding that zip line erased all those feelings, and the adrenaline rejuvenated me, and the feeling of conquering my fears filled me with revitalized joy!! Yay!!

Afterwards we headed out to Bucaramanga and got there after sunset to visit the wonderfully illuminated parque del aguas, that was covered with elaborate displays of Christmas lights. We walked through the park, and it was great, but the whole time I had an increasing anxiety about where was I going to sleep. I had a couple of options listed in my lonely planet, but it was night time and dark, and I didn’t know if the areas were safe, or if I would have to go there alone, as I couldn’t ask all 25 people to go out of their way to drop me off.

Well luckily Mama Cecilia suggested that they drop me off, and the hotel I landed it in was actually pretty good, it a decent area, and at a decent price. -So it all worked out!

It was sad saying goodbye to my knew family and the awesome time we had spent together, but when I closed my hotel door- Awww….. peace and quite… just me, me, me, and nothing or no one to worry about… how relaxing. I can take my bath (hot water!), have a FRESH towel (that I don’t have to wash!), turn on the TV and just do whatever the hell I want! I can sleep in, I can hang out, I can eat my breakfast at leisure…. Aww… so good.

So my first day of the year, January 1st, and ending it alone, and happy to be so- could it be a sign, or a reflection of the last year?? Hmm… Well, whatever it is, it felt a damn good way to end the day, and I thanked God for being me, and for having the courage to put me in these places….

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