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Published: February 11th 2010
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The Lost City of the local Tayrona people, situated deep in the Sierra Nevada mountain range, dates back around fifteen hundred years, but was only discovered as recently as 1975. Due to its isolated location, remotely located in the highest coastal mountain range in the world, the only way to get there is on a 5 or 6 day guided hike (or by helicopter if you have a lot of money to spend). All the agencies offering the tour are obliged to offer the same price, namely 500,000 Colombian Pesos (around £166). The prices are going up to 600,000 next month so I definitely went at the right time. I booked for the day after I arrived in Santa Marta, and was ready the following morning not quite sure what to expect. Our group consisted of 8 people - 3 French, 1 Dutch, 1 German, 1 Colombian, 1 Italian and myself. French quickly established itself as the principal language of communication as more people spoke French than English, though every important conversation had to be repeated in French, English and Spanish so everyone could understand. From Santa Marta, we crammed into a 4x4 and headed east, turning off the main road
after an hour onto an unpaved road, which after an hour of continual bumping and jolting, arrived at the base camp for the trek. We were introduced to Carlos, our guide, who was absolutely brilliant at his job, keeping us informed and amused throughout. The first day’s trek was to be 6km from the start to the first night’s camp. The path track started out easily enough, being relatively flat and smooth, and we even had time to stop off at a natural swimming pool for half and hour along the way. However after the first hour the path began to ascend sharply into the hills - the non-stop-climb lasted for just over an hour; unsurprisingly we were all somewhat tired after just a couple of hours walking. Luckily we only had to carry our own things - there were 3 mules carrying all the food that we would need. After a watermelon break, we continued along the path; although not difficult to walk, it continually ascended and descended as we crossed valleys and the small rivers that flow through them. At the end of the 4 hour walk we arrived at the first night’s camp, which was coincidentally Carlos’
own house. Jaime, the cook accompanying us, served us dinner whilst we got to know each other properly. We slept in hammocks with mosquito nets which weren’t that comfortable, but made for a welcome rest. The second day was similar to the first - another 6km to trek, going up and down a lot of hills, though the terrain in places did become more difficult, with steep slopes and boulders to navigate. In general, the mornings seemed to be sunny (and therefore hot) whilst in the afternoons mist rolled in, making things damp in places. There were in fact quite a few muddy bogs to negotiate, and in other places where the track was damp it become a lot more difficult not to keep your grip. The second night was spent in hammocks at another camp, next to the Buritaca river, where we spent a few hours in the late afternoon relaxing. The third day’s trek was the longest and most arduous - 8km on a more challenging track to reach the Ciudad Perdida. We left at 7 in the morning so as to give us plenty of time to do the trek and to explore some of the city
on the same day. On the way we met some of the indigenous Kogi Indians, and it was interesting to see their traditional village. The track basically follows the Buritaca river upstream from the camp towards the Ciudad Perdida, but has some very sharp inclines, combined with some very difficult sections going across narrow ledges overlooking ravines, not to mention climbing over large rocks and boulders on the river side as well as 9 crossings of the Buritaca river as the track changed from one side to another. Luckily at this point it was dry, or else the track and the rocks would have been a lot more tricky to pass. Some of the river crossings were shallow and easy - the first I tried with bare feet, as recommended by Carlos, but nearly fell over a couple of times. Some of the others in the group just kept on their walking boots and didn’t mind getting them soaked, but I changed to sandals for the remaining 8 crossings. A few were deep and difficult as the rocks on the river bed were predominantly large and rounded, therefore making it difficult to not lose your grip when the water is
rushing around your knees. Fortunately, no-one fell over during any of the crossings. Luckily for us it is dry season, so the river level is quite low; in September-November the water could apparently be over your waist and thus much more treacherous! Luckily for us it never came much above the knees at the shallow points where we crossed.
After the ninth and final crossing we arrived at the bottom of a staircase that led to the Ciudad Perdida. In total, 1200 rickety steps led up the hill side to the ancient city. The first 100 or so steps were very narrow and rickety, after then they became easier. After around 800 (or about 20 minutes), we reached the first level of the city. In total there are some 1000 terraces, each of which would have been home to several families. All that remains are the stone walls on top of which the buildings were constructed. I had a few problems with the steps across the city; many were incredibly narrow (some only 5cm wide!), which made walking down them somewhat difficult and slow. We had a walk around the centre of the city that same day, and it was
all very interesting. We stayed overnight in the city - there is a camp just outside it, though from February groups will have to stay 40 minutes away at the bottom of the stairs as they’re worried tourism may be damaging the site. Instead of hammocks, we had 8 mattresses on the floor, which made a welcome change from the uncomfortable hammocks. The following morning, under the bright sunshine, we continued our exploration of the site, before heading down the 1200 stairs (this was difficult and dangerous in places - it probably took as long as climbing up). We continued heading down stream, crossing the river 9 times, arriving back at the camp we spent the second night at. We had decided to complete the trek in 5 days (we had the option of either 5 or 6 days, both would have cost the same price), as we all had busy itineraries. Therefore on the 5th day we did the 12km we had done on the first and second day combined; though mostly downhill, there were 2 half-hour ascents which were tiring. But as the end was in sight, we lumbered on, arriving back at the starting place after about
five and half hours walking. We were all filthy, sweaty, tired, blistered and covered in insect bites, but happy to have done the trek. After returning to our respective hotels for a shower and a nap, we met up in the evening in Santa Marta for dinner and a drink before saying goodbye.
After 40km in 5 days, I’m going to take it easy on the beaches of the Tayrona national park, before heading west to Cartagena.
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anonymous
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Thanks, very helpful. John