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Published: January 16th 2015
Ferry Crossing Magellan Straits
Gus boarding the ferry - Magellan StraitsUp at 4:30 am, with not a lot of sleep due to another traveling companian snoring, did not have the heart to wake her. Breakfast at 5:15 and after saying goodbye to Thomas, Lucas and Monica we set off at 6:15am. Exit the Argentinian border at San Sebastian no problems.
Entered Chile at San Sebastian where we were sent to different queues, our bags were scanned for fruit, veg and nuts. Strictly no fruit, vegetables, nuts or wooden items to be taken into Chile; if caught you are fined and detained. Everyone had to complete a declaration form. Sometimes they will insist on taking all the luggage out of the back locker – this time they took off five luggage bags for scanning. They also used mirrors to check under the truck. After 1:75 hours we were on our way again heading to the Magellan Straits to catch a ferry across the infamous waters.
Arrived at the end of a long queue to the ferry, those in front had been waiting for near on three hours. Chad and some others decided to go for a walk and noticed
that some of the HGVs were going on the inside and getting on the ferry. We then drove then the inside and queued behind a lorry. Usually two ferries, but the smaller one cancelled due to the high winds. So the same one going back and forth. Eventually the smaller one was back in service, which we manage to board after 2:30 hours. Good job we jumped the queue as we would have waited for several hours.
We arrived at our bush camp ‘Estancia San Gregorio, Founded 1875’ with lots of sheep shearing buildings, deserted like the rest of the village.
After a demonstration on how to put up the tents we all buddied up, myself with Susan a lovely girl from California travelling as far as Santiago.
Cook group 1 first to cook a camp meal, of which I am one of them. We were given tinned tuna, tomatoes, peas, sweetcorn and pasta using herbs and spices. Usually the cook group decides on what to cook and shops accordingly, but as it was Christmas and shops closed the crew supplied tins for the first night’s camp cooking.
First night camping in
Roadside view Patagonia, Chile
TRoadside photo on the way to base camp. a stony field cold with noise from HGVs on the nearby road. Tomorrow we travel to the beautiful Torres Del Paine National Park.
Day 4 – Torres Del Paine National Park – 27 December 2014 Long driving day to our base camp in the Torres Del Paine National Park stopping on route in the town of Puerto Natales to stock up for camp. The scenery is stunning, not enough words to describe the beauty. Base camp at Lake Pehoe in a beautiful setting surround by snow-capped mountains. Set up tents, which will stay up for the next few nights. Met David our Chilean guide for the W trek.
Day 5 – Torres Del Paine National Park, Glacier Grey – 28 December 2014 9:30 am catamaran to the camp at the Grand Paine Lodge to start the W trek to the Grey Glacier, the largest in the park. Met Sebastian the assistant guide, who walked at the back of the group; David at the front with the fast trekkers. Terrain up and down with lots of rocks, scenery just takes your breath away. Ate a packed lunch at the Grey Glacier view point, then trekked back
to the camp. Some of the group went further before trekking back.
Back at the camp allocated our tents which are very small. Those of the group doing the whole W trek allocated larger tents with sleeping mats, the rest of us had to take our own. Sharing with Penny as Susan doing the whole W trek.
Very busy camp site and had to queue for ages for dinner, of which mine was a type of spinach frittata and quinoa mixed with nuts and veg – very tasty.
Good night sleep despite the noise from other campers and small tents that let in the light, does not get dark until 10:30 ish.
Day 6 - Torres Del Paine National Park, French Valley – 29 December 2014 Bit of a lay in this morning! Up at 6 am packed and ready for a 7 am breakfast, take down tents and leave luggage in lockers – W walkers had to carry their own to the next camp. The rest of us are trekking through the French Valley to
Beautiful trek with a steady up and down path, first a long side a lake. We then proceeded
through woods where most of the trees were blackened by a forest fire (caused by some Israelis trying to burn toilet paper! The wind can out of the blue whip up pretty quickly here). Against the silver of the tree trunks the black contrast gave an eerie beauty of its own.
Having started with the weather dry and fine for trekking down came the rain. Like an idiot I have left my gaiters and rain poncho back at the base camp – Lake Pehoe! Fortunately my windcheater is waterproof and I have good trekking boots, so only my trousers got wet.
Made it to the French Valley and stopped for our pre-packed lunch at the next camp. Rain stopped, W walkers proceed to the campsite Cuernos, where they will spend the next night. Unfortunately a couple of the group had to pull out of the W walk due to a bad knee and back problems. Those of us not on the W walk package started the leisurely walk back in warm sunshine, which quickly dried my trousers. Able to see mountains that were covered in mist and cloud on the way up. They now stood out in their
magnificent glory, stopped to take photos.
Sun now so hot stripped of a couple of layers and slapped on the sun cream and covered my head. David guiding at the back today, caught up with us after checking that the W walkers we safely on the correct path to their next camp with Sebastian.
After walking a while we reached the woods again and stopped to take photos of pink foxgloves, the contrast against the silver bark of the tree they were growing against was really pretty. Continuing through the woods and into the open the sun went in and a strong wind whipped up out of nowhere - fleece and windcheater hastily put on. This was quickly followed by torrential rain, which felt like hailstones as it hit my face. Trousers totally drenched to the skin in no time. Walking back alongside the mountain the wind so strong it nearly knocked me over. Rain stopped and by the time we are back to the Paine Grande my trousers and windcheater are dry. In the Torres Del Paine you can have all four seasons in a day.
Warmed up with a cup of hot chocolate before catching
the catamaran to Pudeto, where Nick is waiting with Gus to take us back to our base camp at Lake Pehoe.
Waiting for us back at base camp was a tasty chicken korma cooked by Julie and Nick. This went down a treat with everyone.
Opened my anniversary card from Mike – married for 35 years today!
Day 7 - Torres Del Paine National Park, Base Camp – 30 December 2014 Breakfast at 8:30am. Rice pudding made with last night’s left over rice and raisins, kindly cooked by Hannah, made a great change from rice cakes and marmalade. The rest of the group consumed pancakes.
Today is a free day for those of us not booked on the W walk. Lazy morning chatting to others before sorting luggage. Exciting lunch of rice cakes, cheese and salad – joys of being a Coeliac abroad! Showered and caught up with journal. Spaghetti bolognaise for dinner.
Day 8 - Torres Del Paine National Park, Las Torres – 31 December 2014 Last day of the Torres Del Paine walk. Starting from the Refugio Las Torres, first part very steep with some rocks and stones before the
undulating path along the side of the mountain. Continued around the mountain before descending down to the Chileno Refugio. On the way several gauchos passed us carrying supplies on their horses. .
Had a photo with two of the gauchos Inside the Refugio. Enjoyed my lunch outside while watching the gauchos saddled up their horses and soaking up the beauty of the area. Took photos as the gauchos left the Refugio first going down across the river before going up to the mountain and disappearing out of sight.
Some of the group continued the steep climb to the Torres Del Paine Peaks (far too steep for me!). The rest of us started the trek back to the Refugio Las Torres. Plenty of time so leisurely walked back soaking up the serenity and capturing the beauty of the stunning scenery on camera.
Back at the Refugio Las Torres campsite enjoyed a choc ice while waiting for the rest of the group. Goodbyes to David and Sebastian our wonderful guides, photos taken before the drive back to base camp.
A tasty meal of lentil soup and beef goulash cooked by Julie and Hannah consumed with gusto
Laguna Los Patos
Torres Del Paine National Park by everyone. Wandered around to take in the atmosphere of this beautiful place for one last evening, joined by a grey fox. What a fantastic place to spend the end of the year!
Later a few drinks to see in the New Year, unfortunately I could only stay up to 11:30 pm due to stomach cramps – later discovered that some nuts & dried fruit mixes have gluten – must be more careful!
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