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Published: February 19th 2009
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The mini-bus arrived in Puhuyuapi 30 minutes early, and we got the last two seats in the back row. The bus was filled to capacity with 17 passengers. The luggage stacked high behind our seat was barely held in place by a rope and threatened to avalanche at any moment. Everyone held bags on their laps, or at their feet…it was packed. We drove for about an hour down the bumpy gravel road before coming to La Junta where we picked up 7 more passengers, all their luggage, and a baby stroller. I thought the bus driver was joking at first because we still had 5 more hours to go. He was not joking. Three people crammed into the front seat with him, luggage was shoved into every nook and cranny, one guy stood up the entire time, and a baby stroller was jabbing the ribs of a guy in the third row. We understood the additional seven people were only going to ride for about 45 minutes. After two hours they were still onboard. When we did finally stop in the next community we only succeeded in trading a 120 pound female, for a 220 pound male. Things were not
Chaiten, Chile
A beautiful place improving, but they were getting funnier. Samantha and I, and the Swiss couple next to us, were the only ones laughing. Occasionally we would stop for a pee break and a stretch. The break was meant entirely for those in the front of the bus because those of us in the back did not even bother trying to move. The mountain of luggage stacked in the isle between us and the exit was absolutely insurmountable.
We arrived in Chaiten at approx. 8:30 PM, after 7 hours in a sardine can. Chaiten was unbelievable. Much to my amazement the volcano was very visible from town and still ferociously venting. When the volcano blew it filled the river with ash so that there were no edges to hold the water back and the sediment-filled water flowed everywhere destroying the town. Pictures are the only way to describe it.
The word-on-the-street was that our boat was running about 24 hours late, but nobody was positive and we certainly were not surprised by the news. Samantha and I went for a walk on the ash covered streets and found some Cabanas right near the water. We were very pleased to discover
Chaiten, Chile
Yes, that is ash. they had just opened back up and were mostly functional. There was no electricity until after dark, when they started a small generator. The cabin had running water, thanks to a huge water tank recently elevated to the roof.
We were starving and went in search of food. We found a very, very mini-market that we initially thought was closed because it was dark inside. Then we remembered there was no electricity. Samantha squinted to find some spaghetti noodles and a packet of red sauce, while I chose a bottle of red wine by using the light on my wrist watch. We went back to our cabin and ate spaghetti and drank red wine in the dark until they turned the generator on.
I got up at 2 AM and went for a walk to see if there was a red glow from the volcano. I never saw the red glow, but the stars were awesome. Sometimes looking up reminds you of how infinitely big God is, and this night was no exception. The entire town was totally pitch-black. It was like being in the wilderness right downtown, a very odd experience.
In the morning, Nicholas, the
Chaiten, Chile
Ash to the eves. owner of Chaitur, offered us a volcano tour. Our boat was still rumored to be very late so we decided to go on a volcano tour rather than wait around all day. Nicholas is Canadian but has been living in Chaiten for the past 10 years. We agreed to leave at 10 AM and by 1130 we were on the road.
We drove to the point where the gas cloud and ash had exploded down the mountain changing miles of rainforest into an, ash grey, uprooted, tangled mess of complete destruction. It looked as though the mountain had been nuked. The eruption point was relatively random and took everyone by surprise. There was no warning and “the bump” that erupted was barely visible before the explosion. In the months since the eruption “the bump” has grown nearly 1200’ in height to a legitimate mountain.
We drove a bit the futher to Lake Blanco and Lake Negro and ate lunch by a small stream in the park. On our return to Chaiten we stopped at Santa Barbara beach and waded in the waves but the water was undoubtedly straight from Antarctica or something because, hot dang it was cold!!
Later we were informed that, “there was a mini-explosion in January that sent thousand degree poisonous gases down the mountain at over 200 MPH, right across the road.” Vacation mode has damaged my mental calendar because this “little fact” did not sink in until that evening when I looked at my watch and realized we were still in the month of January.
The tour was great. Nicholas the Canadian is hilarious and I highly recommend his very thorough tour. But, make sure that you throw your watch away before the tour, he is an excellent, friendly, knowledgeable tour guide, with no concept of time. The tour was from 10AM-2PM…we got home at 630PM. Not like it mattered, what were we gonna’ do, go to the movies?
We got back to Chaiten in time to take some pictures around town and eat more spaghetti before going to bed. The morning brought another beautiful day and more late departures. The boat was already 24 hours behind schedule and our new departure time for Quellon was 9 AM. At 9 AM there was no boat in the harbor much less on the horizon, but we hardly noticed. By this time we
fully expected it. I don’t know when the boat came, but it did.
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