Chile

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Despite the good times in Bolivia, it was something of a relief to cross a remote land border with Chile (where they will practically jail you, or at a minimum fine you over $100 for bringing in fruits, vegetables or animal products). I stayed the night in the northern desert tourist trap of San Pedro de Acama. Nothing remarkable about this town, just a collection of restaurants, tour companies and accommodations.

I hopped a bus the next day to the city of Antofagasta, the destination picked solely based on my tolerance for bus trips. To my surprise, the bus system and roads in Chile are excellent, with actual flat-bed sleeper seats available on the lower level of double-decker buses. About 40 people rough it on top, while just 6 of those willing to shell out some dough inhabit the lower deck. Very nice indeed.

The following day, on the same principle, I bussed to La Serena. Another unremarkable coastal city.

It was time to head to the home of the Nobel poet, Pablo Neruda, the city of Valparaiso. Not finding a taxi inside the bus terminal, I headed out to the street and tried for 10 minutes to hail a cab. No luck. Then, standing on a crowded street corner, at about 7pm, I got mugged. It was a case of someone (never saw him or her), hitting me hard enough to knock me off balance while I felt a hand thrust deep into a front pocket. I had nothing of value in the pocket, but in falling to the sidewalk I twisted an ankle. To their credit, those around me helped me up and then quite sternly told me I ought to get out of that particular part of town due to all the thieves. At the doctor the following day, x-rays seemed to indicate nothing broken, but rather severe strains and tears of ligaments and whatnot, causing bruising and at the time of this writing almost 3 weeks later, a persistent pain when walking. Unfortunately, Valparaiso is both a beautiful coastal city and one with inclines like San Francisco. I spent 4 nights essentially bedridden, with a daily 2 block walk to an internet cafe or mini-market as my source of entertainment, though I did also have an interesting collection of fellow travelers to chat with, and the staff were generous and kind.

Deciding I needed a bit of creature comfort, solace and a flatter environment, I headed to the neighboring city of Vina del Mar, a more upscale place and indulged myself by checking into a big hotel´s two-room suite overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Perhaps the best find was a young Chilean/American man running a bakery and selling awesome whole grain ham, avocado, lettuce and cheese sandwiches. I had at least 2 per day. He also has tasty mashed banana with chocolate topping pie. Sometimes it´s the little things that give us comfort.

After six days of wandering the streets, hanging out at the big beachfront casino hotel and relaxing, I thought I better move on to the capital, Santiago, just over an hour away. The city has about 5 million people. With limited mobility, I greatly appreciated the clean and efficient subway system, allowing me to get around the city´s points of interest with relative ease and comfort. I stayed 5 nights at a hostel with a cast of characters and stories that are best not posted in the public domain.

From Santiago I got myself another flat-bed bus for the 13 hour journey farther south, to the city of Puerto Montt. See it at http://images.google.com/images?gbv=2&hl=en&q=Puerto+Montt There is an interesting juxtaposition of German influence here, making it unique. I came here as this is the port of departure for the 3-day boat journey I intend to make further south to Puerto Natales. Check out the cruiser at http://www.navimag.com/en/canales/sur/ruta_sur.asp

Bad weather and mechanical problems with an elevator conspired to delay our departure and we spent the first night on the ship still docked at the port. We finally did depart, about 24 hours behind schedule, and the journey was on. The 350 foot ship is a combination passenger and cargo ship, with room for about 100 passengers, plenty of trucks, live animals (we had at least 15 horses) and other sundry items. I was placed in a cabin with an Australian couple in their 50´s, very pleasant people, just the 3 of us in the 4 bed cabin. Multiple decks offered great views of the fjords, wildlife that included dolphins, seals and birds. Lots of greenery (pine forests it seemed to me), snow-capped mountains and a chilly breeze. We were served cafeteria meals thrice daily on a schedule, and there were several informational talks and videos daily to educate passengers on the area, people and history. There was a 12 hour passage out into the Pacific Ocean that really necessitated taking an anti-seasickness pill, that put most people to sleep. Despite being a relatively large ship, you needed to hold onto the hand rails when walking or you would no doubt (as some did) slam into a wall. Being winter, and the low season, the ship was only half full, a collection of Europeans, Australians, Canadians and me... Rather sad to think I was the only US citizen aboard, I think that says something about the state of US tourists.

During the latter part of the voyage we passed through some ice fields, with some as large as a car. No Titanic Panic or anything, but interesting nonetheless.

Our final night included a raucus round of Bingo and everyone was in high spirits.

That was the largest ship, longest voyage and certainly (that one part), roughest sea travel I have ever experienced. No question it was the way to go, but I remain unsure if a longer, trans-oceanic trip will ever be in the cards.

Arriving in Puerto Natales, a sleepy town of 10,000 people, I am taking it easy and going on a bus tour of Torres del Paine. The 12 hour tour of nearby Torres del Paine was worth it. We seemed to stop about every 30 minutes for either scenic views or animal sitings (guanacos, similar to llamas and also relative of camels, nandues, similar to an ostrich, large eagles up close picking on roadkill, foxes and the famous condor bird). Though not even close to the largest mountains you will find, the character of those found here is most severe, and the austerity of the entire park has ominous tones. I for one would not be keen to take the popular week-long hikes around the park, particularly in winter, as the biting cold winds made for some rather short stops as our tour group ran back to the van for cover. Can´t imagine walking all day and camping in that place. See some photos at: http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=Torres+del+Paine&gbv=2

Next was a 3 hour bus trip south, to the city of Punta Arenas on the Straights of Magellan. See: http://images.google.com/images?gbv=2&hl=en&q=Punta+Arenas

This city of about 120,000 is buzzing with activity and a degree of modernity I did not anticipate, though its fortunes evidently dwindled somewhat upon completion of the Panama Canal, making it unnecessary for ships to pass by this port city any longer. I estimate it is only about 150 miles to Antarctica from here, and did entertain a day trip until I saw the prices. Seems to me that those in Antarctica are essentially in one of two categories: resident scientists and people with lots of cash to spare and a desire to say they set foot in Antarctica.

I have now been in Chile for more than a month. I have traversed this long, narrow country by land from the northernmost tip to the southernmost. Without question it has been the most developed, affluent country on the trip thus far, and as such, I am ready to leave. I have warm clothing I want to give away but in my 4 days here in Punta Arenas have not encountered a single beggar!

Tomorrow, May 2, I fly to Buenos Aires, Argentina in search of some of the best steaks on earth...

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