WEEK 9 CHILE AGAIN!

---

WEEK 9 CHILE AGAIN
Fe wasn't very impressed with Bariloche- far too touristy and she was keen to move on.

Before we left I took the chair lift to the top of Otto Cerro - renowned to be one of the best views in Argentina. The views over the lake - Lago Naheul Huapi, islands, Bariloche and environs was magnificent. Looking down on hovering birds of prey and paragliders was an experience. I enjoyed a lovely 2 hour walk along the ridge and through beautiful lenga forest with wild flowers.

Fe managed to sample the chocolate - a speciality of the town and she led the search for a vegetarian restaurant. During the hunt a lady saw we were lost and asked us to kindly wait a moment while she rushed indoors to get her specs to read the map - so kind and helpful are the Argentinians!

Having extolled the virtues of Argentinian buses - Fe's first journey of 19 hours from Bariloche to Mendoza was in a rather old bus. Perhaps it was a prototype of the new flashy buses - as the reclining seats with leg rests were leather and so far apart that it was difficult to touch the seat in front. The second driver served morning coffee and biscuits and later a packed meal. Unfortunately Fe sat on the lower deck directly below the coffee machine which dripped throughout the journey.

The landscape during the the first hour of the journey was unique. Brown and grey bare sandstone steep rocky slopes with towers and crags and tors; arid lower slopes dotted with grassy tufts and tussocks; a bright turquoisey blue crystal clear river flowing from glacial melt water and bright green trees along the river banks. The colours didn't look real. More like a child's painting. After that we travelled through arid horizontal or slightly rolling landscapes for hours. As we approached Mendoza irrigated areas supported vines and fruit trees.

We slept quite well on the overnight journey and arrived in Mendoza early in the morning. The tourist office found us a nice hospedaje (10 pounds per night). The Mallorca hospedaje had a lovely patio and open courtyard shaded by a canopy of vines- and Mariano, son of the house was very helpful.

Mendoza is the wine capt ital of Argentina.The town itself, although located in the desert is watered from 'acequias' - open irrigation channels which burble along all the streets in the town carrying glacial melt water from the Andes to water wonderful shady avenues of trees, parks and plazas.

A third trip to Chile. This time to stay with the family I shared a cabin with on the marooned Navimag Ferry. Another journey over the Andes from Mendoza to Viña del Mar just north of Santiago. Amazingly different from the Puerto Montt - Bariloche journey which had trees extending almost to the snowline and towering tors. This journey was virtually treeless- reflecting the arid climate in the lee of the Andes. The route followed the Mendoza River valley. The river itself was wadi like with vertical sides eroded through ancient fluvioglacial deposits. A slow climb to the 3200m border with Chile, the road flanked on each side by steep towering bare rocky slopes rising to giant pillars, tors and peaks. The highest ones were snow capped with the occasional glaciers. Geologically most of the mountains were of sandstone origin, folded and tilted and metamorphosed with veins of intrusive rocks..

Covering the grey slopes were massive scree banks of amazing colours, - reds, pale fawns and greys, ochre and with occasional green hues -due perhaps to copper flushes.
Small tussocks of grass edged the less steep slopes - but there were no trees. The clarity was perfect - every fissure was visible and the mountains set beaut fully against a clear blue sky. There was no habitation except occasional ski resorts. The road passed through tunnels where the valley sides were too steep to construct the road or to deflect falling scree and stones. All along the route huge rocks and stones clung precariously to the steep mountain sides. Many had already rolled down the slopes and had been dragged into the narrow verges.

The Chile border checkpoint was high in the mountains and while our papers were being checked all the luggage was removed from the bus and screened along with out personal bags. (The first time I had experienced this.) There are strict controls on the movement of all animal, fruit and vegetable products to prevent the spread of disease and Fe reluctantly parted with her recently purchased pot of organic honey.

Once in Chile there were 28 steep hairpin bends snaking down the steep descent from the high hanging valley to the valley below - and no barriers along the road side. Having successful negotiated this we followed the steep narrow valley to the foothills and then across the coastal plain.

What was really amazing was that an old railway line followed the same route. It must have been a wonderful journey in its day. Part of the line on the Chile side is still open for freight and for transporting material and equipment to the construction of large hydro power stations and irrigation schemes in the valleys.

The foot hills were covered with tussocky grasses, small bushes and cacti, but where irrigation is possible the land is quite fertile. On the foothills were grape vines - the mature plants forming canopies of leaves under which were long, long weed free tunnels. ( I guess quite high herbicide usage here!) A few small villages - a few remaining strips of land cultivated by locals with horse drawn ploughs growing maize and hand weeded vegetables.

More obvious however were the huge fincas or estates being developed by Dole and Haas. Miles and miles of walls and fences enclosing acres and acres of avocado and fruit trees. Extensive new clearing of scrub and trench ploughing on the hillsides and new plantings of avocado trees on what seems to be infertile land.The potential will be limited only by availability of water for irrigation and huge water towers were being constructed. Along the route were small groups of finca worker's houses, irrigation company buildings and store yards, poly tunnels, fruit packing stations and refrigerated containers and lorries. Sad that our bus didn't stop at road side fruit stalls selling 5 avocados for 1pound!

Further down the valley was a larger village with small old houses with corrugated iron roofs and old wooden doors - It was 3pm - all shutters were drawn and the streets deserted. Only a man with a mobile phone indicated we were in the 21 century.

A gradual descent to Viña del Mar which is located just north of Santiago. I had been unable to contact Hugo, Nadia and baby Paloma (15 months) from Argentina to let them know our arrival time so we managed to find a central hospedaje. Our room had steps up the loo and shower and a circular double bed for Fe. Her turn to choose!

As I had accepted the initial invitation with enthusiasm my arrival was expected and my friends were delighted when I arrived at their apartment. Nadia had been waiting 3 days for me to arrive! They live and work in Punta Arenas in the far south of Chile - but spend holidays at their apartment in the sun.

Viña del Mar grew up a bit like Broughty Ferry, a more desirable residential area with mansions away from the nearby local port and industrial area.- In this case Valporaiso. Viña del Mar is now an up market beach resort with apartments extending as far as the eye can see and some lovely old houses. It was here that I saw more flashy cars than in the whole of my journey so far.

Lunch was a drive up the coast past miles of smart apartments to a sea food restaurant. Our reserved table over looked the sea with waves lapping on the lower structure. Pelicans, cormorants and gulls sat on the rocks below providing endless entertainment. We were joined by Hugo's older daughter Yaravin and her partner Marcello. A pisco sour to start- the Chilean national drink of ron (rum) and lemon, (much enjoyed in our cabin on the marooned Navimag Ferry!).The starter was something like a cross between a mussell and an oyster (no reference to it in my dictionary). The fish meat was pink and grilled in its shell with wine, cheese, cream and garlic. This was followed with a huge portion of tasty fish covered with prawns in a white sauce. Salads and vegetables are served as separate items. Of course we had wine and coffee.

The lunch was followed by a visit to the races! Hugo had been to the Casino the night before - so perhaps it was another of his passions!

The visit to Valporaiso was interesting. The port was strategic stopover along the Cape Horn route, but an earthquake in 1906, the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 and the depression of the 30's led to the end of its heyday. Today it is a major container port shipping out fruit and wine.The commercial centre and naval base ( Chile Armada buildings) are located on a narrow coastal fringe. Access to the higher residential area is by steep 'ascesores' or elevators built between 1883 and 1916. The older streets are cobbled and the houses built of corrugated iron with corrugated iron roofs. Higher up the hillside is a mass of unattractive urban sprawl.

We enjoyed a boat ride round the harbour where huge container ships, fishing boats, naval vessels and pleasure boats all seem to congregate together. Photography of naval vessels is forbidden - but I could not resist a photograph of the name plate of a rather fine looking naval vessel called 'General Prat!' Most interesting was a small naval motor boat returning from shore to ship being steered by two naval personnel obviously transporting an important Captain to his ship. He was standing to attention in the small boat with his 4 silver cuff bands very visible!

We visited a large mansion, now an art gallery with beautiful gardens and grounds. At the entrance was man playing up beat music on a trumpet - and everyone approaching the building was having a little dance! Inside a visitor was videoing the paintings but also singing the most beautiful opera - which provided a most unique atmosphere.

WE visited the beach at 10pm at night - when most Argentineans seem to be out and about. Along the promenade were markets with artisans selling a variety of crafts.

I had a wonderful few days and felt very privileged that I had been invited to join the family on their summer holiday. Paloma, the little girl was wonderful. Such a happy baby. It was a sad farewell and they were all very keen that I return next year!

We returned to Mendoza experiencing an equally wonderful journey over the Andes. We stayed once again in the Mallorca Hospedaje - this time with a group of football supporters who had travelled from Buenos Aires to this 'Maradonna' city to watch two major teams play. The match started at 10 pm and ended just before midnight. (Argentina begins to wake up at 10pm!) However, they hardly made a sound when they returned.

To understand more about the local area I went to the Museum of Science and Anthropology. Although the text was only in Spanish, geology, flora and fauna together with the economic landuse in terms of mineral extraction and agriculture were well interpreted. (Vines 58% fruit 27%, vegetables 10% and olives 5%). Up stairs left more to the imagination. A glass fronted alcove with a reconstructed Spanish colonial drawing room with a grand piano and period furniture flanked on one side by antique wine making equipment and on the other side by an alcove filled with dinosaur bones. I discovered that there was a Mendozsauraus dinosaur, 17-28 feet long which lived in the late Cretaceous period. The first floor really contained anything and everything considered to be old enough to put in a museum! On the top floor was the natural history section and it was interesting to see a stuffed bat with 2 suckling babies and the skeleton of a tortoise. I didn't realise that the shell was attached to the back bone.

Perhaps of more interest was a local supermarket where the owner was also a taxidermist. Here the high shelves of his shop were stocked with stuffed specimens. A large condor hovered over the coca cola fridge and another over the wine and biscuit shelves. There was a crocodile, snakes and various birds and in the corner a domestic cat and basset hound dog!

Our next journey was short. Only 2 hours to San Juan.

---

Photos

View from Cerra Otto
Above Bariloche and environs

Cerro Otto
Wild flowers

North of Bariloche
Interesting landscape

Over the Andes
Colourful screes

Over the Andes
Incredible rock formations

Over the Andes
Rugged mountains

To Chile
A few of the 28 hair pin bends!

My Chile family!
Wonderful sea food lunch!

Valporaiso
The busy port

At the grocers!
Stuffed basset hound and cat!

At the grocers1
Hovering condor!