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Published: September 13th 2006
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It was no surprise that I fell to the ground from the last step leaving Casa Aventura. After all, it was Valparaiso that broke me only five days before. With nearly a week of Valpo experience under my belt, I was not so much embarrassed or frustrated as I was grateful that I hadn't landed in one of the ever present piles of dog poop found on the streets and sidewalks here. Valparaiso is a unique city with a beauty all its own. It is a port city and because of its Acensores, similar to outdoor elevators, and outrageously mazelike city plan, it was named a Unesco World Heritage site in 2003.
Five days earlier I arrived on a bus from Santiago. I had grown accustomed to Santiago and was learning my way there and feeling like it was home. But I wanted to follow my original plan, and also not overstay my welcome with my gracious host Edgardo. So, to arrive a bit drowsy from the bus to face some new challenges did not put me in the best of spirits. I was feeling downright negative. To quote myself during those first few days, "I feel like I know
pretty much nothing about everything." I went to a café that first night and could not determine whether to wait to be seated or seat myself. That simple uncertainty, paired with the strange vibe I was feeling, was finally enough to bring tears. But only for a minute and then I toughened up (Lucie). By the way, you seat yourself.
Once back at the hostel, but only after wandering the confusion of Cerro Concepción, my mood began to pick up a bit. Aline and Mark, from San Francisco, shared some dinner with me and we played dominoes with another guest at the hostel. The next morning a Swiss girl reminded me that it was not necessary to make all of my important decisions in one day, just to slow down, spend some time thinking, and it will come to me. So I took her advice, wanting to give the coastal towns the same chance I had given Santiago, and headed to Viña del Mar for the day. It was Valpo's sister city, Viña del Mar, who lifted me up once again. Her clean streets, sandy beach, and the sound of water crashing into the shore. I spent the day
visiting with Persis (from New York) and Brice (France) and alternately sitting in silence on the beach. I returned to the hostel that night to meet Steve, Theresa, Ben, and Oliver from the U.S. They became the resident family over the course of the week. The boys played with their Legos and were comfortable running around the hostel in their pjs and Steve and Theresa asked after the progress of my job search as they were just beginning a search for an apartment in the area. It gave it a homey feel.
Each morning we were served a hearty breakfast at the hostel: eggs, bread and butter, coffee, tea and fruit. I would sit for a long time talking and filling my stomach so that I could go through the day until dinner. I sent my resume to all of the large language institutes in the area and spent the rest of the days exploring Valpo or Viña. On my third night as Aline and Mark prepared to move on, I met Ed and Rob from England. They had been traveling for ten months by this time and had many great stories about the places they had been. I
most enjoyed the story of how it took them 40 minutes to buy a Metro ticket in Santiago. The story itself was not that great, but it made me feel just a little bit better about my Spanish abilities. I have permanent tarjetas plasticas (plastic cards) for the Metros in both Santiago and Valpo! What an accomplishment. The next day Ed, Rob, and I spent some time at the beach and had a huge and very cheap meal at the Central Market in Valpo.
When Ed and Rob left in the morning I started to remember the life of the traveler. The strange new twist is that I am stuck in limbo between traveler and resident. When you are traveling you make friends quickly, share great times, and then harden yourself to say goodbye over and over again to great people you will never see again. Living in the hostel provides the exposure to people traveling from and to so many great places. I took many notes about future trips. But as each group of new friends moved on, I started a new day looking for work or exploring. I became a fixture at Casa Aventura, a cause and
interest for everyone to ask, "Have you found a job yet?"
Having done all that was possible for the week, emailing my resumes, I left for Santiago to spend the weekend. It was great to be "home". I did my laundry, watched movies, and spent time with Edgardo and friends. I had a great, dizzying day with Daniela (a friend through Edgardo). We bought sushi and went to the park. Later we went to el Museo de Bellas Artes. In order to talk we used una mezcla (mixture) of Spanish and English, inserting words of the known language when necessary. Especially accomplished for Daniela who is from Brazil and speaks Portuguese as her native language. I am blessed that she has the patience to hang out with me. She has only lived in Chile for three years so I think she can still remember the time when she was learning the language as well. When I returned home that day my brain was spinning for quite a while and I could not think clearly in any language.
Now I write again from the coast. I returned to Casa Aventura for the week and will stay on the coast
for the week and extended weekend as we celebrate Independence holiday. This week I visited each institute in person and asked about work. It is slow going. I arrived at a difficult time as the school season ends in December and most positions are full. Landing a job also tends to be a result of asking the right person at just the right time. It´s Chile! I am practicing patience. I had an interview today and had to complete a huge exam with essays, short answers, and grammar identification. I was fully appreciating the TEFL training, without it I would have sunk. Though the interview went well in my opinion they really do not have work to offer at the time so I wait to observe and substitute. I am not yet discouraged. I was told to come here with some "jingle in my pocket" and that will do me well for a while. I only have to resist buying a pair of shoes that I want so much. There are so many great shoes here! They will be my reward after teaching a week or so of classes. Perhaps you can all send those collective positive energies my way
again? A few hours of employment would be so satisfying.
A few bright rays from last week...
*receiving text messages from both Daniela and Edgardo (it only required a dictionary and one other reference book to reply to Dani).
*being honked at while I was walking in Santiago. Normally this would really bother me and I would ignore the car but it turned out to be Claudia and Jose (some new friends)!
*acquiring lots of great ideas about where to travel next.
And a special feature for this issue, don´t move to Chile if...
*it frustrates you to walk on crowded sidewalks where no one seems to care if they run directly into you or where it's common to come to a complete abrupt stop in the middle of the path.
*you don't enjoy paltas (avocados) or lemons, as each is quite typical for a Chilean dish.
*the sight of couples snogging (making out) in any and every public place makes you uncomfortable.
I am managing. 1) We decided last night at the hostel that it's best to walk around cluelessly so that others must move out of the path. 2) I love avocados! 3) And the
snogging, no it has not been me!
P.S. Check out my photos connected to the last issue. I uploaded them after publishing the blog.
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Esther
non-member comment
I am so interested
You have brought back some great memories. I was in Valparaiso in 1968...oh such a long time ago. I also went to Vina Del Mar and Santiago. I had such a great time there and I love hearing about your travels. I certainly hope you get that job. It would be a wonderful place to live. ( My opinion from many years ago) Good luck. Esther