At the end of the world (almost)

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We´ve covered a lot of miles since I last wrote. We decided to change our plans a little and take the Navimag ferry up through the fjords of Chilean Patagonia (check it out on www.navimag.com if you are interested). It wasn't on the list but the trip looked amazing; a four day cruise through untouched scenery was too good to turn down really... especially as it coincides with my birthday. It meant an unscheduled return to Chile (something I thought I'd do some day but not so soon) and a slight change of plans. In order to make the ferry which leaves from Puerto Natales (Google it - its near the bottom) we had to get from Bariloche (somewhere in the middle of Argentina) in about 6 days... and hit a couple of sites along the way.

What entailed was a mad dash through Patagonia. It was a bit like Phileas Fogg except on a smaller scale and without teh faithful manservant to carry the bags. And I'm sure he didn't spend two nights in a row sleeping sitting up. In order to get there in time we were relying on a few things going our way... mainly buses. Fortunately, we got the last two seats out of Bariloche. The nidnight wait for our connecting bus was unpleasant and by teh time we arrived in Puerto Madryn the next day we were feeling a bit ropey. There is generally one reason to go to Puerto Madryn (aside from breaking up a 40 hour coach ride) and that is to see the whales. Unfortunately we got in too late to get on a boat. Bit gutted about that but its the first thing we've missed out on since going away.

We were almost scuppered when the bus for our second leg was full. In our defence, we had tried to buy tickets the day before but unfortunately the South American siesta (i.e., not only do they take three hours for lunch but they are two hours late getting back) got in the way. Fortunately, we found another company that went our way and our second day and night on board a bus began. To be fair teh scenery was awesome. We travelled through Argentine Patagonia and doing ti by road is certainly teh best way to appreciate it. Patagonia, the eastern side of it anyway, was quite a change from the lakeside scenery I'd been bleating about in teh last blog. But impressive in its own right. Patagonia is basically an enormous shrub filled plain. Its technically a desert, despite obvious appearances, in the same way that Antarctica is technically a desert: it has almost zero humidity. The air currents tend to blow from the west and, before they get to Patagonia, teh clouds tend to drop their payload over the Andes. Anyway, the sheer vastness of teh place is impressive in its own right and on that second night I witnessed the most spectacular sunset I've ever scene. It was just about worth the aching limbs.

Our bus got into Rio Gallegos the next day. If everyone is united on one thing about that place it is to get the hell out of there is quickly as possible. There is just nothing to see. It is a grey, ugly depressing place. We had bigger fish to fry and, resisting teh urge to check into a place with showers and, heaven forbid, real beds we got a ticket to El Calafate. We had a few hours to kill so thought we would hit town anyway. It confirmed everything we had heard about the place. One Britich guy who got the bus into town with us remarked that it reminded him of Liverpool. He was not being complimentary. Rio Gallegos is a blip, I should point out. The rst of Argentina is an absolute joy and I would totally recommend it. The people are great, teh food and drink is excellent (and cheap) and the scenery is the dog's Bs.

By that stage, we were pretty much (although not totally) as far south as you can get on land before hitting Antarctica. skies, late nights...

Anyway, the final leg of teh marathon took us to El Calafate. I had to endure a Steven Segal movie along the way. We passed more of teh Patagonian plain or 'steppe' as its called and, as we approached town, the snowcapped Andes once again came into view. I've been fortunate enough to see quite a bit of this amazing mountain range since we've been away and its simply magnificent. FACTS

We limped into our hostel and threw ourselves in the shower. I coudl have cried. Its amazing what little luxuries you taek for granted until you don't have them. TV is anotehr example. I haven't seen much since I've been away and really haven't missed it. However, on teh odd accasion we've checked in soemwhere with a TV in teh room, we've acted like kids at Christmas. Wow! Whats on? A film??!!! In English??!! Cool!!

El Calafate was much nicer than Rio Gallegos, if a little expensive by Argentine standards. Its got a bit of a captive audience as its right on teh doorstep of a world class site, an uberspectacle, teh Moreno Glaciar. We simply had to fit this in before getting teh ferry back up.

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