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Published: November 20th 2011
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Day 11- Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine
Yet another early start was met with slight disappointment. We were met by our guide and taken down to meet the boat that was to take us up a fyord before transferring to zodiac speed boats up the Rio Serrano to our hotel. We were told it was simply too rough as the wind had not got any lighter, and whilst the boat would have not sunk, their concern was that we would all have been seasick.
We were taken to the offices of the company running the tour and asked to return at 9am when they were going to formulate an alternative plan. There was very little open in the way of cafes or shops whilst we waited for the new plan, so we wandered looking through windows until we returned to the offices.
The alternative plan was to transport us to the end of the zodiac course at our hotel, and to travel downstream to where we would have met them, and back up again and then to the hotel. This way we did not miss out on the zodiac ride, or seeing the Serrano Glacier which had
been part of our itinerary. We got into big Ford transporters for the 2 hour journey by road. Initially, the road was tarmac, but approaching the Park, this turned to gravel, with some quite steep hills and sharp bends to be negotiated. We did stop a couple of times to take photos of some of the beautiful scenary and lake views, and then finally on the approach to the hotel, a view of the surrouding area.
We stopped at a hut next to the hotel to don our wet gear that was being provided for the zodiac trip which consisted of very attractive orange three quarter length jackets and red over which went red lifejackets. They were quite heavy and difficult to manoevour in, but would hopefully keep us dry. We followed the guide on a short walk to the pier and split into two groups, negotiated the step into the boat, and set off. It was quite rough, and there was a lot of spray. Every now and again, the boat would turn sharply and a wave would come aboard and drench someone! After approx 30 minutes, we approached another pier, and we were motioned to get out.
The biggest barrier to the day was definately language. We had no proper guide with us so it was a point and guess job. We walked for a short while through some trees, which was to avoid a waterfall that the boats, and passengers, would have been unable to do. We stood for a while, during which time the two drivers made various attempts to start the engine of one of the other zodiacs. It did not fill us with confidence. In the end they gave up, and we were motioned to get in to a converted zodiac that had a small cabin on the front of it. Some of the party got into that bit - first class accomodation! It at least kept them from the wind and the spray from the river. We continued on our journey to the Serrano Glacier. We got out and were able to take off the orange jackets. By this time, we were eyeing up the rest of the party, as we had all had an early breakfast, and there seemed to be no sign of any lunch!
We walked through a bit of forrest, and round the corner and could see
the face of the glacier and some of the icebergs that were floating downstream from it. We continued walking to the main viewing platform, and got some good pictures of the glacier face. One of our party had not relinquished his jacket, and the camera that had been on his shoulder slid off and into the river! The lack of food was actually becoming the main topic of conversation, as it was 2.30pm, so Russ delved into the bag and produced some biscuits, which we shared with a nother couple but we didn´t have enough to go around.
On the way back to the boat, the wind seemed to increase in strength just at the more exposed points, and two of the party actually got blown over. We put our jackets back on and got back into the boats. They took us 10 minutes down river and this was the lunch stop. Rather hesitantly we went inside and a three course meal was served with beer and wine. There was a soup, salmon and dessert of custard with currents set in it. Overall it was really nice, but as we were all starving, anything would have been welcomed. The
view out of the restaurant windows was directly at the glacier we had just been to visit.
After lunch, we got back into the wet gear and into the boats, and returned to where the day had begun. We could see the Torres del Paine in the distance, and the boat back was equally as bumpy as the wind was still strong.
We checked into the hotel and the first room they gave us had single beds, so Russ went to complain. The second room, they could not open the door, so we ended up in a third room. The room had a view out over the mountains, so was considered to be an upgrade.
After our welcome drink in the bar (another Pisco Sour), we then began to think about some tea. We went upstairs to look at the hotel restaurant, but were unimpressed by the buffet style and looking into a couple of the trays, it didn´t seem that inviting. One of the other couples had said they had heard the food wasnt upto much, so had ventured out to the building with the "green roof" that we could see. Consulting Trip Advisor didnt help,
as there were no restaurants listed for the area, except the hotel - which didnt get a very good review.
Being brave, we set off with two other couples to walk across the field, passed the horses to the green building. The restaurant had panoramic views of the mountain range, and was actually quite busy. Looking at the menu and trying to decipher the Spanish, we took the advise of those around us and ordered the meat plate for 2. The bread came and went, and after over an hour we were still waiting. The waitress was very apologetic, and brought over Pisco sours for us all on the house for the wait. When the food arrived, ours could only be described as a meat feast. It was on its own heater with charcoal under it and there must have been 10 different pieces of meat. It was a far bigger portion that we had ordered, but this was all part of compensation for having to wait. We couldnt finish it all, so offered it to the others, who were struggling themselves. Certainly with the salmon dish when it had arrived had had 5 steaks on it!
We
left, feeling very full and walked back in the dark to the hotel - no one having thought to bring a torch. We sat in the bar and had a drink before turning in, and as they shut the bar, rather curiously the barman put all the spirit bottles away from behind the bar and it shut 10 minutes early.
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