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Published: December 6th 2009
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Torres del Paine
View heading into the park I find myself singing that line,"climb every mountain..." from
The Sound of Music as we hike the staggeringly breathtaking trails of Patagonia. From Ushuaia we traveled to Chile to visit the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. We lodged at Erratic Rock, a hostel and trekking outfit operated by a few zealous guys from Oregon. The hostel was no frills but they put together a mean stick-to-your-ribs breakfast and offer you all the advice a novice trekker could ask for before heading into the park.
We began our 6 day trek with two other travellers, Malcolm and Kyla. We trudged 11 miles the first day through snow flurries but were rewarded with views of Torres and Los Cuernos del Paine as the clouds broke mid-afternoon. The second day we hiked along the base of Cerro Paine Grande with Lago Grey on the other side. I couldn´t get used to the icebergs that went floating by in the opposite direction as we hiked towards Glacier Grey. We reached the glacier early afternoon and had ample time to explore the rocky shores at the base of the glacier. The shores were sculpted and carved where the ice had ground back and forth. Sitting
Morning Reflections
Icebergs at the base of Glacier Grey on the beach we enjoyed the afternoon sun and watched to blue ice break apart, booming like it was forced by a dynamite stick. The next morning we visited the glacier again before heading back down the valley. Overnight the ice had shifted and a new group of fluid shapes lurked in the frigid water.
Day three was 12 miles out of the valley and around Cerro Paine Grande to the base of Valle de Francés. It was pouring rain the second half of the day and I was annoyed when I discovered my waterproof jacket wasn´t so much. It was a soggy night but the day dawned clear and Mike and I parted ways with our friends to finish the last 3 days. Valle de Francés is formed by a steep ring of mountains, creating the perfect environment for avalanches. They thunder down the slopes at regular intervals and while we ate our lunch above the valley floor we witnessed three loud snowy showers. It was my birthday and I couldn´t have asked for a more exciting show.
The next day was one of my favorites; however, Mike decided to roust me at 5:30 am to attempt
to remove an earplug (he mashed so deep in his ear you couldn´t see it) with a pair of crappy tweezers. Long story short, he ended up walking the next two days repeating ¨eh?¨everytime I said something and even sometimes when I didn´t. I became quite annoyed with him and he then threatened to keep the earplug, once removed, to reinsert when I nagged him in the future. He had the plug removed upon return to Puerto Natales at the ER...for free luckily. We walked along the shore of Lago Nordenskjold and this mouthful of a lake was huge with a glassy turquoise surface. The hills beyond rose in soft velvety folds, fiercely contrasting with the intimidating spires of the mountains. The last part of the day was a rough push as we climbed ever upwards to the camp at the base of Torres. The camp was much colder than the others and we hoped for clear skies as we prepared for our sunrise hike to the base or Torres. 4:30 am came all too soon and I grumpily huffed into my warm clothes while Mike packed a hot thermos for breakfast at the top. The arduous scramble up and
over icy boulders was worth it! The sun crested the hills and lit up the spires of Torres in glowing tones. Scoured by the wind we left the grand sight and began our descent and final hike out of the park. After 50 miles we reached the lodge at the end of the trek and enjoyed a beer and a very satisfied feeling.
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Andrea
non-member comment
CRAZY
You guys are totally NUTS! I can't believe the adventures you're having -- you are so brave and awesome. Glad to hear Mike is not permanently ear-damaged. Love you!