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Published: January 14th 2006
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...But it´s really about a backpack. Read on...
So everyone said that Torres del Paine was one of the most spectacular sights in South America. It´s a national park with pink granite spires, lying at the foot of the Northern Patagonian Ice Field near the tip of the continent. There are two ways to see the park: the first and more popular way, by hiking the "W" route, and the other, longer, windier, avalanche-prone, and presently closed, back Circuit. Well if this was one of the best things to experience in SA, then I was going to go all the way, and hike the Circuit. The hotel owner had said that people had managed to complete it even though a massive avalanche had forced a closure near the pass; and if they could do it, so could I. I shopped around for camping gear in Punta Arenas first. There was a tiny "Timberland" shop, an even smaller "The North Face" store, but alas, no "Patagonia." Found next to no suitable gear so I had to rent it from the hotel; got the package cheap, which included everything down to a fork. So I packed my bag, mostly full of seven
days worth of food, with the rest somehow tied to the outside. According to estimates, this bag weighed over 45 pounds, and was clearly much more than I was in shape to carry. But for some reason I was determined to do the 65 mile Circuit anyway; I guess I thought it would be a good way to get back into shape. Hahaha, I don´t think I´ll attempt something that silly again. First of all, it´s a route better hiked with at least one partner; that way the food is distributed a little better and there is only one tent and you can rotate carrying it. I only saw one other person in six days doing the Circuit alone.
I got through the first day ok, although several kilometers of the trail was flooded and I walked for an hour through water up to my ankles. But I kept a good attitude - at least my non-waterproof shoes had breathable fabric and would dry out by morning. Six hours later, and at the first camp, Julio the camp manager offered me some tea and pastries - named something like "old ladies´ripped underwear." Next morning I woke up at eight
and camp was pretty much deserted of the six or so groups who were there at night. Oh, except for that couple who I´m convinced were from California (was it the bleach-blond hair or that the girl took two showers within eight hours, or that they were both hiking 65 miles in flip-flops?). Not to insult you if you´re reading this and you´re from California, but seriously I´m almost certain they were (actually they looked like surfers).
I don´t mean to keep complaining about the weight of my pack, but it really shaped the way I experienced the park. When I got to camp on the third day, the camp managers told me I didn´t have to pay the 7$ fee for a site because looking at my pack, they said "You´ve paid enough already!"
I prepared myself mentally that the next day, which was Christmas, was to be the worst of my life. The pack was still as heavy as ever; and I hadn´t eaten dinner the night before because I was too tired. This was the toughest day of the trek, with I believe 15 miles to cover through muddy marshes, a mountain pass, the "closed"
Second Day
I´m about ready to be done hiking for the day. avalanche area, and harrowing river gorges. After hiking for an hour, a group of people, who turned out to be my Christmas angels (or something equally as corny) appeared, seemingly out of nowhere on my tail. Three young Finnish girls and one guy stopped, gave me a funny look, and said, "We think you should attach your tent to the top of your pack." Well being the inexperienced trekker that I am, I had one of the heaviest items on the bottom, which makes the pack feel much heavier than it needs to. They said, "Kneel down and we´ll attach it for you." I obediently knelt down. It was taking about fifteen minutes; I felt my pack being pulled this way and that, and they were jabbering away in Finnish. Finally, one of the girls said, "You´re probably wondering if we´re stealing your wallet." That would have been clever of them; I hadn´t even considered as much. But no, it really was a puzzle to figure out how to attach that damn tent up top. But after they finally attached it, the pack felt ten pounds lighter! I´m sure everyone out there already knows about this little trick like it´s
common sense, but it seemed like genius to me. Because of it, I suffered much less that day than I thought I would. A million thanks to the four Finns out there, where ever you are!
I eventually learned why the rangers were telling people they would probably die if they tried to hike the Circuit. For example, near the end of the fourth day, after you´ve hiked for nine hours through very difficult terrain, there are two river gorges. They have placed the equivalent of rope ladders on both sides of the ravines, which you must descend backwards (keep in mind, this is very difficult with 40 pounds on your back). Below is a raging river flowing on a 45 degree angle. Oh, by the way, there´s no bridge across, so you have to search for stones to step on, and if you fall, well, that´s it. You´ll be carried down river and probably speared on the glacier below. Even I can´t believe I made it successfully.
There´s not much to say about the fifth and sixth days except that I got prickly heat on my back and stomach because of carrying a pack on both front
Christmas Eve
The hike leading up to the pass. and back, and sweating constantly under them. It itched and stung like hell.
Oh yeah, Torres del Paine is one of the most beautiful sights in South America. You can´t miss it. I´m serious!
While on the trail, I met someone who was taking the Navimag ferry from Puerto Natales in the South for four days to Puerto Montt further north. His idea was that it would be a great way to spend New Years. After he planted that little idea in my head, I went and bought a ticket. It would be a good way to recooperate after Torres del Paine. It was a fantastic trip actually, on a boat originally intended for cargo transport, but modified to carry people too. Not only were there interesting and fun people aboard, but we sailed through beautiful islands and waterways, and saw lots of wildlife including dolphins, whales, albatross, seals, and one penguin.
On New Year´s Eve there was a costume contest. But you had to come up with a costume from the contents of your pack. Something like this forces creativity and always has hilarious results. What was inside my pack actually helped me and a
Resting with the Finns
And cleaning our shoes and socks of mud. few other people this time. I was a pirate, but funnier costumes included a garbage-bag penguin, and Peter Pan (with head to toe blue long johns, a paper dagger, paper hat, and pointy paper shoes.)
All in all, I had a good holiday, and I hope all of you did as well. Cheers.
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anonymous
non-member comment
you're one brave gal making that hike on your own.