Conquering The 'W' - Torres Del Paine


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March 21st 2007
Published: March 21st 2007
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The Towers. We were lucky that the clouds stayed away long enough to see them in their full glory
To access Torres del Paine national park we are based in a small town called Puerto Natales. Its totally ramshackle and when we first arrived we thought our hostel was part of the local shanty town.

Surprisingly the buildings are better than they look on the outside and we are actually living in reasonable comfort - hot water showers at least - you always have to put the toilet paper in the bin… most attractive and adding to the relationship building experience…

We also got our first bloody good breakfast. Having been used to a couple of crappy croissants and coffee in Argentina, we were ecstatic to get cereal, yoghurt, omelettes and homemade bread.

We have found a good café which does fantastic vegetarian food. You might be surprised to find us carnivores there but you don´t get much vegetable action in South America so you have to take it while you can. Plus the place has comfy sofas and good coffee.

The bus to the park was pretty mental. We ended up taking the ´not so publicised´ 10am option. As it turns out this is probably because it is more of a food pick up
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Some perspective on the size of the place
and drop off service rather than a direct bus. We ended up in the right place though so all´s well that ends well.

Rather than bore you with full detail of the trek - we did the W which to summarise, it was 50 miles of going up and down hills, scrambling up boulders, and some more gentle bits too, over 6 days and 31 hours of trekking. Not to mention carrying full rucksacks which we guess would weigh about 10 kilos. This was us packing light - considering we lived in 1 top and trousers for trekking and 1 top and trousers for the evening, 10 kilos now seems a little excessive. Will also leave the smelliness of our gear to your imagination…

The trek was amazing, we got to see all the main highlights - the towers, the french valley and the grey glaciar for those that know them. The weather held out for us most of the time, although the wind can literally knock you off your feet. Was very glad not to be camping on a couple of the nights.

We have also met some great people here. Partly as we have been
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the area surrounding the towers
staying in dorms more and sharing bathrooms. Those are the only options in the park. We are starting to meet people who will be doing similar things to us in the future months too so no doubt we will bump into them again. Its good to have some banter with other folks as well as each other.

We are now waiting to take the Navimag - a 3 day boat trip which will take us about a ¼ of the way up Chile to Puerto Montt. It has been delayed getting here due to bad weather so we are getting a stock of sea-sickness pills in. More bonding experience to come 



Additional photos below
Photos: 19, Displayed: 19


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Refugio Chileno, we could see the towers from here
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The local ´Gaucho´or cowboy
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On our way to the French Valley
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The French Glacier
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Looking down from the top of the French Valley
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The walk up the valley was along pretty rivers like this
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the forests get battered by the weather
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ok just one arty shot
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Los Cuernos or The Horns
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not quite as pretty as the landscape
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The Grey Glacier from a distance
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Refugio Grey. The lads here were more interested in the single lady campers than looking after paying guests
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Glacier Grey
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More Glacier Grey...
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Leaving the park by catamaran
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We are done!!


29th March 2007

well done both of you
Fantastic pictures, great stories - can't believe you are both still grinning despite the cold winds rain etc etc. However you did have some strops we believe Catrin!!!! Glad you're not absolutely superhuman. Keep up the bonding.
29th March 2007

Seasoned Travellers already!
The photos and stories sound absolutely amazing!!!! You are already sounding like seasoned travellers! All well back in Blighty! The new Redfern arrival made her appearance a few days early and Maisie Kate Redfern was born on Saturday weighing in at a healthy but not too eye watering 7lb 14oz ... Auntie Gill is going to coo and cluck this Sunday - photos to follow!! Take care both and look forward to hearing about your next adventures Gx
30th March 2007

Off to ABO!
Well you are definately on your way - so glad you two made it on your travels. Have not checked the site before so will be logging in regularly to get the latest of the intrepid travellers. I am jealous already. So much so I will have to go off to the infamous Croydon ABO now for a glass (bucket) of wine to drown my sorrows! Keep the stories coming! Don't worry Rich - no work questions.....yet! Take care both. xx
31st March 2007

Sounds great!!!!
Internet finally working again!!!! It sounds like you are having a fantastic time...v impressed with the photos. Much more impressive than our drunken travelling pics!!!!! Junior Hogan still too lazy to make an appearance, so I'm sure I will be logging on here everyday making the most of maternity leave!!! Enjoy and keep the photos coming!!!!
1st April 2007

Luxury Hotels and bacon sandwiches!
Wow. Stunning start to the trip. Looks like you're having a great time. I must admit I think I am much happier looking at the photos than actually being there (unless there's a Marriott somewhere in those beautiful mountains!). Great news about Gill's 2nd baby (I hope that is the Gill Redfearn we went to Uni with otherwise this last comment might appear a bit odd). We are expecting our second in Sept which means Cat's off the pop for another 9 months!! Anyway look forward to getting the next instalment! Dave, cat and hannah.
1st April 2007

WOW
Am green with envy! Certainly beats being here in the UK. Do keep the updates coming...its great to hear about all your adventures. Not much news here - Martyn enjoyed watching Liverpool winning against Arsenal yesterday - 3 goals from Peter Crouch...although Richie I am sure you have already found time to read all about it somehow! All going well with me...busy week last week with a whistlestop tour of the courtry with conferences (and too much flaming sambuca!), but looking forward to the Easter break - we have booked a last minute holiday to Egypt to get some sun. Good to see you both looking well. Looking forward to the next installment Suzannexxx
1st April 2007

So jealous!
Hi guys!! All sounds and looks amazing!! We are sat here on a Sunday night feeling very envious of your travels! You look like you are having a great time and creating loads of brilliant memories! Keep up the blog - it is fab to be able to see your journey! LOL Cas and Ell xxx
1st April 2007

trekking
I salute those boys at the Refugio Grey - that's the spirit!
10th April 2007

Want to swap places?
So churn is still higher than expected and Q1 reforecast....blah....blah....blah....yes its all the same over here. Feeling very envious reading this travel blog....brings back memories of not too long ago!!! - Sounds fab, I know how the trekking feels. I bet your 10kg pack only needed 3kg in it!!! - Anyway, keep the stories coming, useful distraction from work! - Enjoy every minute and remember the bad days (if you have any) are still a thousand times better than the good days at work!!!!

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