Beginning our trek...

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This morning we woke up well rested, despite sleeping in a hot room with a leaky ceiling.  I cannot be underestimate how happy we were, however, to have had a comfy bed and a hot shower after travelling on a plane (actually five planes) for more than a day.

We woke up this morning excited to begin our adventure, which started with a search for water.  Being nervous to get sick before the trek, bottled water was key.  Much to our dismay, the entire tiny town of Punta Arenas apparently sleeps in on Sundays (or observes Sunday as a Holy day) - none of the stores were open!  We took a walk down by the water and headed back to the hotel for an unimpressive breakfast of plums, warm yogurt, watered down juice, etc.  Eric managed to scarf down some eggs, but I settled for  a granola bar from home, in hopes of a better lunch.

Our driver Pedro and a rep from Cascada (the guide company) named Francesca picked us up at 10.  Eric was at the local 'farmacia' (which thankfully opened at 10) in search of water and some eye drops.  Using some broken spanish I advised the driver of where he was and when he would return and was very proud of myself when he seemed to understand me!  Thank you Senor Lydon - those spanish classes at VHS paid off! 

We hopped on the bus (a nice Mercedes 'coach' type of bus, with quite a bit of zip for a vehicle its size), picking up two americans who are roughly our age, three brits and two irish and headed for Puerto Natales.

The scenery from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales was probably comparable, in part, to certain parts of Wyoming or maybe even Arizona... vast stretches of land, dotted with ranches (estancias).  We would drive for miles without seeing much vegetation (other than low lying shrubs and grasses) and then all of a sudden there would be a huge grove of trees or a crop of something we couldn't identify.  We saw cows, sheep, horses, and guanaco (looks like a cross between a llama, a gazelle).  It really seemed to be 'gaucho' territory.  As we neared Puerto Natales, the terrain became more mountainous. 

When we arrived in PN, we checked in at the office of our guide company and met Daniel (prounced the spanish way - dahn-ee-el) and headed for lunch.  After our lackluster breakfast, I was skeptical about what we were in store for.  I ended up being pleasantly  surprised at Mama Rosa's, a contemporary 'bistrot' and bar with a fantastic view and a delicious lunch of squash soup, something similar to chicken marsala (but better) accompanied by a light refreshing salsa made of peas, red peppers, onions, and a whole lot of garlic, followed but panna cotta served in a martini glass.  I was shocked to find such a gem of a restaurant near the ends of the earth!

Connected to the restaurant was a hotel called Indigo that looked super cute; if we were ever to come back, I think we would stay there, although there were also a few very nice looking hostels in the area.

The view out the window was gorgeous.  A massive "lake" (see below) surrounded by snow capped mountains.  On a clear day, I bet the view is even better.  We learned something interesting about the geography of PN during lunch.  Eric had asked 'what lake is this' and Daniel responded that its actually ocean - a fjord - it used to be a glacier but as it melted, it cut away a basin for the ocean to flow into.  There are many of these type of inlets in the area apparently.

After lunch we took a side trip to la cueva del milidon - a MASSIVE cave where the now-extinct milidon (like a huge sloth with big claws) lived, along with other animals and primitive Patagonians.  A difficult place to take pictures because of the lighting, but it was interesting to see.  Then we hopped back in the coach for the 3 hour drive to EcoCamp where we will have dinner and WINE (which I am especially excited for right now) and spend the night.

As we entered the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, it was easy to feel small.  The acreage of the park in combination with the massive mountains surrounding us was, I think, humbling in the sense that it made me cognizant of the size and power of nature.   The weather was cool and rainy so we couldn't really get a good feel for what was around us; hopefully clear skies are ahead.  The park is beautiful.  We were sad to see the remnants of a massive forest fire that swept through this area a few years ago when a Czech camper's stove overturned.  That made me cognizant of the power of humans.

When we arrived at EcoCamp the weather was HORRIBLE.  High winds and torrential rain... Hope it doesn't stay!  Our ecodomes (why does the name remind me of Mike Jones?) Are small - 9x9 on a good day, no heat, no electricity.  But they have a super cozy bed with flannel sheets and some kind of furry pelt blanket.  Despite not having heat we should be warm!  Our dinner was great.  Our group is only the other two americans - Jessica and Chris (she's a biologist, he's in the US Coast Guard and they live in Martha's Vineyard) - and Daniel.  We had lentil soup, salad with what I think was manchego cheese, lasagna, and this amazing chocolate pudding.  Oh and also some fabulous Chilean "tinto" wine (ie red).  It was great.  Back in our 'dome', we flipped on the iPad and are watching Inception.  I am glad Eric bought it before we left.

Buenos Noches.

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