It's rather chilly in Chile


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South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales
March 31st 2011
Published: April 2nd 2011
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After a bus journey with a border crossing and 4 hour flight, we found ourselves in Chilean Patagonia. We piled on the layers and swapped our flip flops for thick socks and walking boots.

Our main detour to the south was to visit Torres del Paine national park. Unfortunately our lack of time meant we could only stay for 2 nights with 3 days trekking. Our first day was to Lago Grey referio (shelter) which is by Glacier Grey; the walk took us just under 3.5 hours, stopping for lunch and taking pictures. The landscape is what I would expect the Scottish highlands to be like, vast green hills with snow peaked mountains in the background.

Once we had dropped our bags off at the shelter we carried onto see Glacier Grey closer. From afar the glacier looked like a large tidal wave about to crash. We had hoped to kayak closer but as it was the last weekend of season it wasn't possible. We found a bay where several icebergs had drifted to the shore and were impressed with view and size.

The second day we walked back in speedy time and via boat travelled to our second shelter, Torres Referio. We enjoyed a chilled out afternoon, trying to reenergise from the past 2 walks.

On our third day we decided to walk the trail to Torres mountain base. Amanda had been unwell so decided to only walk a little part. Lucille walked to the first stop point before returning and taking the 2pm bus back to town with Amanda. At the beginning of the morning I had planned to do the same. My legs were aching and I was sure I'd prefer an afternoon that included a hot shower and decent meal. However once we stopped at the first point stubbornness kicked in and I decided to join Jane to the end. Within half hour I was regretting my decision, the walk was getting steeper and my legs felt like lead, heavy to manoeuvre.

I convinced myself at the 2nd stop I would turn around, I wouldn't be able to complete the return journey otherwise. Of course this didn't end up happening. At the second stop the sign said we were only 45mins away; new stubbornness and adrenaline kicked in, I strangely felt lighter and ready for more. I learnt the sign lied, it was a good hour longer but with good music on my iPod I was enjoying the challenge.  And I am so glad I continued - the view at the end of the trail showed the two towers (name of the 2 jagged mountains) in front of a lagoon. It was beautiful and the pride of finishing made it even better.

The return walk felt easy; mainly downhill and chatting away with Jane, I forgot I'd ever been tired. We finished the 18km walk in great time and had 4 hours to kill until the next return bus so treated ourselves to food at a nearby hotel.

After Torres del Paine we spent 2 nights in Punta Arenas, a town further south. We visited their cemetery, recommended due to it's large size and mixed history. We had hoped to take a tour to see penguins but being end of season meant little guarantee so it will have to remain on our to-do list for another time. On our last night we went to the cinema (which costs us £1.25 each) and watched the Anthony Hopkins film The Rite. It won't win awards but it made us all jump while we enjoyed our popcorn.

Back onto a plane for our next stop Santiago, where we have tickets to a two day music festival.


Sent from my iPod

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