Torres del Paine

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So we are back in Chile & it seems as though the high season has started early here in Patagonia. There were four buses running the border crossing whereas only one was scheduled - it was how I imagine a "saga holiday" to be like, everyone was taking ages to sit down and get organised, and they seemed to be constantly going to the toilet. When we eventually arrived across the border you notice straight away how much greener everything is this side of the Southern Andes - which also means that it is a lot wetter, so we were pleased that we had splashed out on waterproof trousers in anticipation of our next trek.

We have come back to Chile to trek in the Torres Del Paine National Park labelled as the most stunning and remote park in all of South America. Puerto Natales is the nearest town, 112kms away - a bit of a mix and match place, only with not much match about it. There are lots of corrugated iron buildings in various states of disrepair and for decoration it looks as though a gang of teenagers have been let loose with spray cans! It is really only used as a stop off point for the park and everyone is either going to, or coming back from it.

After being spoilt on our treks in Peru with guides and donkeys to carry all of your gear we were a bit apprehensive about having to carry all of your own equipment for 4 days. If there is ever an incentive for not over packing then this was it and we managed to cut back quite a lot on what we´d normally take.

As soon as you arrive in the park, clouds permitting, you can see the actual 3 towers that comprise Torres del Paine (South, Central and North) - huge granite needles which are on all the pictures and postcards of the park. We had great weather for our trek and on the first afternoon we hiked up to the base of the towers in glorious sunshine without a cloud in sight. They are pretty magnificent close up as well as from a distance, although it has to be said we were overall more impressed with Mount Fitzroy in El Chalten. It think it is one of those places that would actually be more imposing in winter, all covered in snow and ice.

After this first day and a seven hour walk we were feeling quite happy with our packet rice and noodles until back at the campsite there was an organised tour who had two whole lambs bbq´d over an open fire, I had to physically restrain Sam from going over and stealing one! The park is pretty well organised and there are refugios that you can stay in at some sites instead of camping..and also drop in for a well earned beer.

The second day was our longest day and we walked 32kms in 10 hours -we had to carry our bags for 5 of these and I was very pleased when we reached the campsite and could leave them there. The first two hours in the morning until 9am was our favourite time, when there was no-one else around and everywhere seems very still. It almost felt like we had the park to ourselves. You walk pass lakes with pebble beaches, then up to two more mountain lookouts on this day where we saw and heard mini avalanches all around us. That night we were nicely tucked up in our tent at an early hour only to be rudely awoken by people pitching their tent practically on top of ours at midnight - as if they couldn´t find another spot, I mean there is only 2,400km sq to choose from! It was payback time the next morning though when we were loudly cooking porridge at 5.30am, how we laughed!!

We pushed on to finish the walk in three days, something we thought was quite impressive until we met a guy who did the 75kms in one day! The highlight of the third day is Glacier Grey which I´m sure we would have stayed to appreciate longer had it not been for the howling wind that had picked up and our throbbing, aching feet. In all it was a great walk, with lovely scenery and impressive views...just need to remember the lamb next time!

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Photos

The three towers
of Torres del Paine

Having a rest
By one of the many lakes

Messing around
Guanacos having a good time