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Day 37 - Saturday 11th March
The Facts: To Puerto Montt, Puerto Varas, Cochamo Valley and Campo Aventura
Jo
Service station bowser
The Longer Version: A Taxi took us in darkness back to Punta Arenas airport for our flight north. At Puerto Montt we decided that as we were in no hurry, we would try to catch the public buses to Puerto Varas where we planned to spend the next day. This proved to be no drama, just a bit of chaos at the Puerto Montt Bus Station which had a million buses going a million different directions.
We got to Puerto Varas and found accommodation at a small hostel recommended by some Australians we had met on our travels. No sooner than we booked in, we went to the travel agencies to sort out our options for activities for the next 2.5 days. Apart from finding that they were all closing down for the weekend, and that bad weather meant Volcan Osorno was unlikely to be climbed, and rafting MAY go ahead things weren’t looking good. That was until we came across a lodge 2 hours from town that had some activities for us. So very
last minute we booked a day of horse riding and a day of Kayaking in the Cochamo Valley. First we had to check out and re-book the hostel for several days later, now that was an experience with our limited Spanish. Whilst waiting for the bus we observed the fire brigade arrive at a service station, men in silver suits, and as the bus drove by, realised someone, in their best Chilean driving had run into the petrol bowser. This bus was very full, and standing room only, but it did make the trip very interesting. We got to meet a guy., who until 2/3rd of the way into the trip, we thought his name was Jo. He pointed out the highlights of the trip, we discovered all about his family, he enjoyed fishing, and his name was really Alberto. Lesson: Yo (I) and Jo, sound very similar in Chilean Spanish!
We got to the lodge of choice, set in a beautiful valley and very relaxing. We were the only people there when we arrived, and we got to enjoy a lovely 3-course vegetarian dinner (The place only does vegetarian we discovered as we progressed through our meals there). We
Goats anyone?
Traditional Chilean outfit attempted to get hot water for a shower, but it was struggling somewhat so we bypassed this pit after ducking under for a VERY quick wash.
Day 38 - Sunday 12th March
The Facts: Cochamo Valley
Horse riding
The longer version: We had our sturdy steeds saddled up with Chilean riding gear including wooden stirrups. As we headed up into the mountains, the track got narrower, thinner and even deeper. In some spots the path was so well worn we had to pick up our feet to stop them rubbing against the edges of the track. The valley we went up into has about 300 families living on their own properties in subsidence living, and this is the only access point on this side of the valley. We met up with a group coming down from the mountain hut, had some lunch and continued down with the new guests, and two Huasos (Chilean cowboys) who looked a treat in the traditional clothing worn by these guys. The horses were excellently trained and very sure footed which was a blessing as we crossed through rivers and mud. It was good to get off the horses
at the end as it had been some time since we had ridden, and our muscles weren’t really used to it.
After our return we relaxed by the river and the sandy beach, when Roger felt that he hadn’t done enough Engineering for a while, so he attempted, and succeeded in re-diverting some parts of the river.
We had new guests with us for dinner, including the Germans who spent the last 7 years on a boat (and only caught two fish) and two English girls teaching in Santiago. The dining was certainly amusing, and even more so when a cat came in to visit us, and its claws took a liking to Rogers feet. Rogers scream had one of the English girls with her feet on the chair for some time as she swore it was a mouse! That was the funnier part of it all.
Day 39 - Monday 13th March
The Facts: Sea Kayaking
Return to Peurto Varas
The longer version: We awoke to rain again, but this wasn’t so bad as we were going to be spending all day on the water. Our Irish guide with a strangely distorted
sense of humour put us in a double kayak (known as a ‘d’ for divorce boat). Karen was in front as she wasn’t going to get the blame for steering into a bridge. We got to see a little bit of bird life, including black necked swans, but nothing in the way of marine life on the trip up the fjord. Was a nice paddle, and good to be not horse riding in this weather!
When we returned to Puerto Varas we were able to witness the now burnt out shell of the flashest hotel on the waterfront, the Colonel del Sur. It had gone up two nights earlier, and fortunately everyone got out safely. The whole town did however have a smoky smell about it, and it got you thinking about some of the places you were staying in and the escape routes- forget earthquakes, fires were the big danger!
Day 40 - Tuesday 14th March
The Facts: Puerto Varas- Buenos Aires
The longer version: A low key transit day as we made our way from Puerto Varas, back to Puerto Montt, and onto a plane bound for Buenos Aires, via Santiago. Upon
arrival at Buenos Aires, we grabbed some dinner (10.30pm and it was just getting going), and again over ordered, because we decided on a side dish of grilled vegetables. I think we ended up leaving half the meal there. We will never learn!
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