South American Adventure

---

On Friday 11 February, we arrived in Cuzco. We were a little dizzy and breathless, but the altitude did not present a great problem for either of us. A little bit of oxygen and some horrid coca tea did the trick. We started our many tours of Inca ruins that afternoon. Gordon particularly enjoyed the Saqsayhuaman site (sexywoman!) It was all very interesting and enjoyable, but after having been through it all and having climbed hundreds (maybe thousands) of stone steps we were all stoned out, and I don´t want to climb another set of stairs as long as I live. On the way to Ollantaytambo- oh so many steps there!- Gordon really enjoyed the colourful craft markets. Everywhere we go there are colourful craft markets, and he is just in his element - NOT! We have seen some magnificent gardens over here, and one of them was at the hotel in Ollantaytambo. There were geraniums, roses red hot pokers, fuschias ect in brilliant colours. The next day was the highlight of the trip for me. The train trip in the Andes to Macchu Picchu was one of the most beautiful things we have ever done. Seeing the snow capped peaks through the windows in the roof of the train, with boiling rivers rushing by, and excellent service with beautiful Peruvian music playing was indescribable. After the train ride we completed the journey from Aguas Calientes to Macchu Picchu by bus, on a very steep, rough, winding road with countless tight hairpin bends and unprotected edges and steep drops to the river below. We were unlucky to strike a rainy day at Macchu Picchu, but it wasn´t heavy rain, so it didn´t stop us from doing anything. We could not believe our eyes when we walked through an opening and the ruins appeared before us. No words or pictures can describe it. More stone steps, which were a little difficult in the rain, but I would do it over and over again - it was so magnificent. On the way back, I needed to use my Spanish skills (for the first of several instances). We had to leave our overnight bags in storage while we went to the ruins, and were told that the little man would bring them back when we were ready to leave. However, the train was ready to leave and we still didn´t have our bags. I had asked three different officials where our bags were and they all just said Ëspera aqui¨ (wait here) So a bit of panic set in. Gordon gave me the phone and told me to use my Spanish skills to find out where our bags were. It is very difficult to speak Spanish on the phone because you have no visual clues or sign language to help. Anyway, I must have got through to him, because he turned up very quickly with our bags after that.
We had a wonderful evening in Cuzco. Upon our guide´s advice, we went to the Tupunu Restaurant for dinner. The service was wonderful- so friendly and efficient. We had a lovely meal. Gordon had Alpaca, which he said was similar to beef, and I had Saqsayhuaman Trucha (Sexywoman Trout) which was served in a pisco sauce. Yum! They presented a fabulous show - four Peruvian musicians who were all multi-talented and brilliant. They played everything from typical Peruvian music to ABBA, El Condor Pasa (which we heard everywhere we went!) to Bach and Mozart. I have no idea how they could play ¨Rondo alla Turca¨ on a little flute with six holes!. But it was beautiful - all in tune. I could have listened to it all night. Then came the dancing. I had no idea there were so many styles of Peruvian dancing, and the costumes were magnificent. Of course old twinkle toes got in on the act and showed the pretty little Peruvian girl how to do it - NOT!
After Cuzco, we had a nine hour bus trip to Puno, on Lake Titicaca, driving along the Altoplano most of the way. There we set out at 5.30 on a foggy morning to visit the Floating Islands, (Uros islands ) on Lake Titicaca, which is the highest navigable lake in the world. This was amazing. There are 2,000 people living on 40 floating islands which are constructed of many layers of reeds. They live in tiny huts which are also made of reeds. There are schools, shops and a hospital made of reeds too. The people are so warm and friendly and showed us how they construct the islands and showed us their handicrafts (which they do like to sell).
Later that day, we drove into Bolivia to Copacobana, on the shores of the lake. This lake is shared by Peru and Bolivia. This was a very pretty spot and from here we had a boat trip to Sun Island, where we had more Inca ruins and more steps (Gordon adds - and more bloody craft markets!) Coming back, the boat wouldn´t start - one of several worrying moments we have had.
The next day we did a guided city tour, when we visited the Cathedral. They have a small chapel at the back of the main Chapel. During the week the statue of the Virgin Mary faces the small chapel where she overlooks the lake and for the bigger weekend services, they turn her around to face the large Chapel. Outside the cathedral was a very interesting custom taking place. Many cars were there being blessed. They were decorated with flowers, and the priest sprinkled every part of the car - motor, brakes, interior, boot, wheels, and all the occupants, with Holy Water. They then had a celebration.
That afternoon, we were driven to La Paz, which involved crossing Lake Titicaca. Our vehicle was taken on a small barge, while we were transported across separately on a small boat. In La Paz, we did a city tour, which among other things took us to the Witch´s market, where we saw (and smelt) all these dried llama foetuses which they use for their burnt offerings.
The Valley of the Moon is another one of those indescribable places. It is a vast area of clay stalegmite-like structures, with very deep canyons - more steps and quite a treacherous track , with narrow paths and in many places no railings. More stress for Mary! We saw a partly completed, very impressive olympic pool. Work has halted due to lack of funds and it may never be completed - the result of so much corruption in this country.
That afternoon the ¨fun¨in La Paz began. We had both just read the book ¨Marching Powder¨which told the story of an inmate in the cruel and corrupt San Pedro Prison in La Paz. We were intrigued by this and were keen to see the jail, but our guide was not at all interested in talking about it. We went for a walk in the afternoon, and to our surprise came upon the prison, only a few blocks away from our hotel. We were in the park opposite the prison and I was snapping away with my camera when a guard came dashing across the road waving his hands at us. Had to use my Spanish again to get out of this one!. He made me delete the photos, and I was afraid he was going to take my camera off me. I didn´t know how to delete them, so I gave the camera to Gordon. He couldn´t see without his glasses, so he put his hand in his pocket to get his glasses, and the guard grabbed for his gun. I thought we were gone. However, I convinced him that they were gone and said ¨Lo siento¨ (I´m sorry) many times and he let us go. I was still trembling much later.
Much worse was still to come in La Paz, but we´ll keep you in suspense until next time.
Hasta luego.

---