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BREATHLESS
Since we last wrote we have flown from Cuzco to Arequipa, spent a night there, flown from Arequipa to Tacna, spent about 5 minutes there and caught a taxi to Arica in northern Chile. $40 US for a 50 km taxi ride and the driver handled all the cross border paperwork for us.
Arica is a coastal town and fishing its main industry. Birds love fish, and there were thousands of pelicans and cormorants chasing the fish and the fishing boats. We spent a couple of days wandering the black sand beaches, hiring some bicycles one day to have a look further down the coast....In all the years of technological development in bicycle design, the seats are still unbelievable uncomfortable ;-)
Got the bus up to Putre last Tuesday. A town of a few hundred people at 3500m above sea level and the gateway to several national parks across the altiplano near the border with Bolivia. Even in Putre theres an ATM and an Internet Cafe. Wednesday, we started a 4 day tour to see the sights. Mt Parinacota, a perfect cone shaped snow capped volcano was a highlight as was seeing lots of wildlife
that call this inhospitable place home. Vicuna, like a small llama, Rhea, like a small emu and Viscacha, like a rabbit but with a long tail.
All this literally takes your breath away. Here, on the altiplano, at 4500m, the air is very dry and very cold and has 40% less oxygen than at sea level.
We have been taking it easy, just short walks stopping a bit to catch our breath. Just the two of us on the tour and our driver/guide so its easy to please ourselves.
Stayed Thursday night at a refuge run by CONAF the Chilean National Parks Service. Its just next to an 11000 ha salt lake with some very timid pink flamingo and lots more Vicuna.
We had a close look at the salt lake, Salar de Surire, on Friday seeing lots more flamingos and we had a close encounter with 2 of the normally shy vicuna who decided they wereńt going to let a couple of tourists get in the way.
The natural thermal pool looked beautiful with steam rising from the 30C water and it was very tempting to have a swim but the 5C air temperature
with a good breeze forced a change of mind.
We spent the rest of Friday driving south staying quite close to the border with Bolivia. At one spot we were very glad we had made the decision to go with a guide when he pointed out a small sign on a dilapidated fence. It read MINAS, Spanish for Land Mine. Put there in case those pesky Bolivians try to invade.
Further on we past numerous flocks?/herds? of domesticated llamas and alpaca who seem to find life here quite easy. Lots of water courses fed by the melting snow intersect the otherwise dry terrain creating oases for lots of birds and some juicy water plants for the alpacas.
Today, Saturday, we came down from the altiplano heights, passing some giant cactus and stopping for a look at a ghost town from the nitrate mining days of the 19th century perfectly preserved in the dry air.
We are staying at Iquique, a town built on the fortunes of the mining boom. Opulent extravagance like timber footpaths in a land at least 2000km from the nearest tree.
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Dad
non-member comment
Breathless is a good description for your views
Hi Both Love the photo's but the arid landscape tone the colours down somewhat. But still so interesting. Its going to take forever to get back to working mode. Love from us Dad and Mum