Chilling out in the desert

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Our bus across the Andes from Salta to San Pedro de Atacama left at 7am so it was a 5.30am start to get to the bus station in time. Another comfortable bus - this was to be our last luxury bus as we will soon be in Bolivia. Unfortunately for both the bus and ourselves within two hours black smoke was pouring out the back and we ground to a halt on the side of the freeway. Luck was on our side however and the drivers managed to flag down a competitors bus into which we all managed to squeeze into.

A fantastic bus journey took us high into the Andes to the Argentinean border crossing where we got our exit stamps. The crossing was at 4300m, although we felt fine with the altitude. Over the roof of the Andes and down towards the Atacama desert. The scenery was fantastic as we crossed enormous salt flats, and passed numerous volcanoes.

We arrived in San Pedro de Atacama to the Chilean immigration and were met by a friendly couple from a local hostel. The hostel was one of the best we have stayed in to date. After a short wander around town and an excellent meal out it was time for bed.

The following day bloomed with blue skies and hot sun. We booked onto a short tour to the Valle de la Luna (the moon valley, so named due to the similarity to the surface of the moon). Leaving at 3pm we had a short stop over in Death Valley where huge sand dunes meet with beautiful blue skies. Onwards further to the moon valley. Much of the surface around this area is covered in salt deposits making a great contrast with the blue sky. Shortly before sunset we climbed up a large sand dune with about 100 others. The views were once again spectacular as the volcanoes in the distance changed to purple.

The meal out when we arrived back to San Pedro was pretty bad - the food was good but the waiter was shocking. No tip was left and James even left a note for him explaining how he could do better.

The following morning we had to rise at 0330 am. We were going 87 km to 4370 m to El Tatio geyser field. The highest in the world. A dirt road all the way - particularly bad in places. We arrived shortly after 6 am to a huge number of smallish geysers - made New Zealand look tame. As the sun came up (note that it has been a number of years since seeing both the sunset and sunrise in one 24 hour period) the geyser field looked fantastic. Although at 4300 m the air temperature was minus 10.

There was a hot water swimming pool which Anne braved despite the below 0 air temperature. James was more sensible! A long drive back across the desert where we saw llamas and Vicunas. An afternoon of relaxing and buying things followed. The evening was spent with James reading his 1800´s novel - Mansfield Park (Jane Austen). To be recommended!

Friday was to be an active day of hard core off road mountain biking. We hired two reasonable bikes (perhaps even Anne´s brother Tom would have been happy with them) and set off with plenty of water into the desert. After climbing up an exhausting hill we found that we had taken a wrong turn and it was a dead end. A short trip into Death Valley was curtailed by the deep sand which we were trying to cycle through.

We have booked onto a three day trip to Uyuni in Bolivia across the Salt Plains and then on towards La Paz and eventually Peru to meet Heather in late August. Will keep you informed. Not sure when the next update will be as the internet is supposed to be slow in Bolivia.

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Photos

Anne in the Atacama desert
The driest place in the world is only 1 hour south. No rain has ever been recorded.
The location of our five night stay in San Pedro de Atacama.

James in Death Valley
This photo was taken moments before James was lost to sinking sand - see final photo last Blog!

In Valle de la Luna
The white stuff is salt not snow - remember that we are in a desert.

Anne waiting for sunset
Have just climbed up a large sand dune with about a hundred others.

El Tatio geyser field sunrise
It was minus ten air temperature here.

Anne freezing to death at El Tatio
It was minus ten air temperature here.

I hear this is the rage in Paris this year
Anne after swimming in tepid waters.