Easter in San Pedro de Atacama


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Published: April 30th 2006
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We travelled further into the Atacama region from La Serena via Bahia Ingles and onto San Pedro de Atacama. I couldnĀ“t believe there could ever be a place so dry and dusty. Not surprising really, considering parts of this region have not experienced rain for 290 years! En route we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn and had a game of cricket when we stopped for lunch - very bizarre in the middle of the desert. We gradually climbed higher and higher until we reached San Pedro, 2400 m above sea level.
San Pedro was magical at night, an adobe mud town of one storey high lit by inviting restaurants with fires and lamps strung along walls, so they glowed red. Stray dogs proliferated, along with backpackers and Chileans, some in traditional Andean cothing.
After a night of listening to some fab Andean music full of guitars, pan pipes and lots of "Heys", "Hos" and "Ays", I got up at 4 a.m. on Easter Sunday morning to travel to the El Tatio geysers a mere 4400 m above sea level. By the time we reached them at 6:30 a.m. the sun had risen and it was between minus 10 and minus 5 degrees. The guides put eggs in the bubbling pools and after a little while, before eating them for breakfast, we had Easter egg hand warmers!! Some brave souls hit the hot pools, but not me. My clothes were staying put in that cold. Plus we had all started to feel the effects of climbing 2000m in 2 hours. Ideally to accustom yourself to altitude you should ascend 1000m a day! It was a bit like being drunk but with a simultaneous hangover: lightheadedness, dizziness, and clumsiness, but with pounding headache and nausea. After viewing the geyser field we descended to a local village where the supposed restorative effects of coca tea made us all feel a lot better (either that or high!) In the evening of the same day we all travelled to Moon Valley, a landscape that was out of this world. We watched the sunset from a mammoth sand dune, and I can honestly say it was magical. I have never seen anything like it, and doubt I will again.
After another day of hanging out in San Pedro drinking pisco sours and doing souvenir shopping (I am now a proud owner of a very fetching blue alpaca
Easter egg, anyone?Easter egg, anyone?Easter egg, anyone?

5 minutes for mine, please
hat with flaps - not much use during the day here as it is very hot, but oh my goodness the temperature drops at night) we travelled crossed the Chilean/Argentine border on our way to Salta....


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30th April 2006

Oh my gosh, Liz, it all looks so amazing. I've been particularly enjoying the NZ blogs, knowing we'll be there soon. We'll have to pick your brain on all the best bits when you get back. Also, I want to know your secret of always looking so chic and well turned-out when you're living out of a backpack! Carry on having a fab time. Love Niki x
2nd May 2006

Liz once again sounds amazing. looking forward to the replay of the hey's hoy's and ay's when you return. as for the altitude sickness making you clumsy, i am suprised you actually managed to continue any further on your journey; knowing how clumsy you are sans altitude sickness! anyway more importantly was your egg runny!! love you and stay safe, kes

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