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Published: November 18th 2010
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So, after the mountain biking escapade, we decide too give horse-riding a miss and opt for an afternoon tour of Valley of the Moon to watch thee sunset instead. We arrive at the booking office about 10 minutes before the tour leaves as instructed, to be told that there is less than the minimum number of people, seven, booked on to the tour, so it isn’t running! (We had thought Chile may be more organised than Bolivia, but obviously not!) We had only booked on to the tour a couple of hours before and had not been told this! Anyway, he got on the phone, ringing other agencies to see who had space, this sort of thing seems to happen everywhere, they simply combine all the operators groups in to one so they don’t take empty cars/buses………..at least it is environmentally friendly, but makes a bit of a mockery of trawling around the tour companies to choose the best one! Well, sure enough he found us a group and we set off only 10 minutes late! The tour was really good, going right through the National Park, we had to crawl through caves, nearly on our hands and knees with only
the light of a torch (which incidentally they also forgot to tell you you needed, but luckily I had mine in my bag (best to be prepared after our desert experience!) Watching the sunset over the desert was pretty cool too, we had to climb to the top of a big dune and then we could look back across the mountains too, amazing how they appear to change colour as the sun sets!
On Friday, it was back to a bit of luxury bus travel (after what we had become accustomed to in Bolivia!) for our trip to Salta. Quite a long journey, 10 hours, but the scenery was amazing, and the bus comfy, so it wasn’t so bad! We arrived to Salta at 9pm and got a taxi to our hostel, but they had no record of our booking….great! They managed to squeeze us in at a hostel across the road, but apparently there was a big Catholic convention going on and so all the hostel rooms were booked! Hostel wasn’t very nice, actually disgustingly dirty, so we were glad to be able to move the following day, back to where we had originally booked. Still in a
room a bit like a prison cell, but at least it is clean and the staff are really friendly. Salta is beautiful, quite a big city, but it has a lovely square with lots of pavement cafes, and feels very much like a European holiday destination, but is much cheaper! It is bizarre though, as EVERYWHERE shuts down 2-5pm for a siesta, and then things don’t really get going again until 9-10pm, and everything is still in full swing at 2am, even the pavement cafes, it is really lovely! Gorgeous weather too, sunny and about 30 degrees. We were still sat out at 1.30am last night in t-shirts, can’t quite believe when everyone keeps telling us what the weather is like at home! Yesterday we went up the cable car to a mountain just above Salta, where you can look back with really good views of the city, and then in the evening we went for the most amazing Argentinean steak. I am not kidding when I say the steak was the size of my plate, and delicious! Very cheap and nice red wine too, I think I could live here!
We took the local us to a small
village called San Lorenzo today, about half an hour away. Very cute little place, with circular walks through the forest, picnic areas and a big river. Seemed a bit strange as it was Sunday, and I felt like I could have been back in the UK at a country park on a Sunday afternoon walk! (except that it was hot and sunny!). One of the workers at the hostel invited us out in the evening, as one of his friends was playing in a band at a local bar. Us and a Dutch couple, also staying at the hostel went along, with a few of his friends, so it was a good night! But again nothing gets going until late, they had got some beer to drink at the hostel first, and we were still there at 1am!! The band didn’t start playing until 1.40am….so a late night, bed at 4am. Lovely staff at the hostel though, and is nice to experience a ‘local night out!’
No real plans for today, we are just sat in a pavement café drinking freshly squeezed orange juice, writing this, making the most of the weather-it is supposed to rain tomorrow. We have
booked a bus to Cordoba, 13 hours, tomorrow night. We have heard rumours that Argentinean buses are amazing, and according to the ticket we get dinner, whisky and wine, so we will wait and see!
Well arrived to Cordoba, but no whisky or wine on the bus, just a very gory horror film, how disappointing! We did manage to sleep though, so all was not lost! Arrived to Cordoba very early in the morning (7am) and walked to our hostel, but my backpack is not getting any lighter, nor am I getting used to carrying it, I feel like a tortoise! Lovely hostel though, and our room was ready, so time for a quick nap before off to explore the town! Unfortunately by the time we went out the rain and set in…..can’t really complain though as we have had no rain since Cusco, over 2 weeks ago! Cordoba is much bigger than Salta, and has seven universities, so it has a very student feel, which is nice, but slightly strange, as everyone here speaks English and always wants to know where we are from!
We went on a trip to Alta Gracia and Cumbresita yesterday. Alta Gracia is
where Che Guevara’s house is, which is now a very interesting museum. Quite moving too, as they have a video with his friends speaking about their time together etc, I hadn’t realised he was only 39 when he died. Made the film Motorcycle diaries come to life too, learning more about their trip! Then on to Cumbresita, which is a little mountain town 100km from Cordoba, and is completely pedestrianised, with beautiful waterfalls and a lake, just wanted to jump in! We didn’t get back until 8pm, but just in time to watch the end of the Police band concert in the main square and then head to the local parilla (steak house). Very local indeed, packed full of locals, and with no menus! (I can only assume that everyone who goes there has been before and knows what they want!) So you have to ask for what you want and then they tell you if they have it and the price! (Another amusing experience in SPANISH!) The food was amazing! I think I need to be vegetarian for at least a week though now, as I must have eaten a weeks worth of meat just with last night’s steak!!
We were expecting rain today, according to the forecast, but it has yet to come, so another lovely day in town and the parks before our night bus to Mendoza. I am holding out on the hope of wine this time!!
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Claire
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Jealous!!!!!
Greetings from freezing North London! Ahhhh, send me some steak, guys!!! Mmmmmmm.... Have to admit I was still wondering until I got to the photo at the bottom which police it was and if you had got Sting's autograph... guttted!! ;) Lots of love xxx