Brazil

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Well hello!!

Bet you never thought you’d here from Nick the Nomad again did you???.. Well, you’re wrong!!.. As I found myself on Gardening Leave until I start my new job in January I knew I could do one of three things:

1-Do nothing and get paid for it
2-Do some gardening and get paid for it
3-Spontaniously book a flight to somewhere far away…and… get paid for it…

I’m not one to do nothing, and I only have a small patio, so option three was my only route.

So.. Three weeks in Brazil, starts…. NOW!

(01/12/10) I arrived in Rio de Janeiro before 9am local time (just 2 hours behind GMT) and despite the flight was 90mins late it wasn’t too bad a flight, baring in mind the whole of UK was covered in snow. My first challenge was to fill in my boarding pass and they had generic tick yes/no questions to “Are you carrying drugs?”, “Are you carrying weapons?” etc which I completed… turns put I ticked YES to everything!.. WHOOPS!.. Should had put my glasses on.. Not a good first impression to make to my South American friends… Anyhows after some direction from tourist information I was soon on a bus to Ipanema, the area of my hostel. The chap in front of me turned around and said “Eee alright lad? Where you heading, like?” in a familiar non-Brazilian tone.. I never got his name but he was a weird although nice chap - he was from Blackpool (sh*thole seaside place in the north of England) and travels to Brazil quite a lot to follow his Brazilian football team who are near relegation. That is mental. I think one of my friends is mad to watch an away match in Grimsby, but flying to a different hemisphere is quite the concern don’t you think? Anyhows he was a nice chap and after a bit of advice he was on his way.. I located my hostel which was three blocks from Ipanema beach, which is regarded as one of the more upmarket areas ahead of Copacabana or Flamenco. I was amazed at how clean and organised the streets were. Everything was square on and there were road names at every corner. I checked into my hostel and was greeted by Franklyn, the Brazilian chap that runs the place. His English was excellent and he was an enthusiastic chap. Soon we even had our own handshake! I was staying in a dormitory type accommodation and was what I expected. Only me and another French guy shared the 8 bed room and it seemed safe enough… As I still had much of the day ahead of me I spent a bit of time on the beach and it was HOT!!.. Despite the near constant cloud cover it was one hot and hummid place. The lack of sleep was starting to kick in so I decided to grab a siesta and as I didn’t really strike a conversation with anyone at the hostel (except a young Mr G lookiklike from Summer Heights High) I decided to have a decent meal and put my head in the guidebook. I expect you may have heard about all the trouble in Rio at the moment but Ipanema is no where near the favelas (slums) and I would liken this particular area to a quite upmarket Spanish resort with plenty of restaurants and shops and clean well lit streets.

(02/12/10) After a surprising really good night sleep with a fan on me constantly, I headed to breakfast where I finally struck up some decent conversation with some fellow travellers, including a Dutch guy called Floris. I had booked myself on an organised tour and was soon picked up by Eduardo our guide and three fellow people - Yon & Adri (from Cape Town) and Barbara (from Canada). Straight away we got on well and everyone was really chatty. Our minibus was airconditioned and it felt like a real treat every time we returned into it. Our first stop was to a beach where normally hand gliders descend on to, but it was a bit too misty for that… We then headed to Tijuca rainforrest, which is quite a mad thing to have within a city? It had a fairly impressive waterfall for us to pose at, and even a random outside bath… Next up was Christo Redentoor (Christ the Redeemer) which is the iconic statue that you would had seen many times. The drive up to Corvodaca mountain was really cool. The statue stands at 38metres but feels like a lot more. I had to replicate the Christ pose of course. Sadly the view was a bit cloudy, but during the brief break in crowd you could tell we were very high up looking over the whole of Rio, and felt like the world… By now it was getting scorching hot and as it was gone lunchtime I was getting hungry. We drove to a sleepy town high up another mountain called Santa Theresa which has some trans running through it and is where Great Train Robber Ronnie Biggs lived for his last few years before heading back to UK, the thieving git!.. But I couldn’t blame him as it was a lovely town with great food. It’s here we had some traditional Brazilian food of pork & black bean with rice and vegetables - very nice indeed!.. We continued our trip to another great look out as the clouds were passing on and then on to the steps of Lapa where an eccentric artist travelled the world collecting tiles from different countries and used them to renovate a very derelict part of the city. The results were fantastic and I found the UK tiles - The Beatles and a red telephone box. We were then dropped off at the foot of Sugar Loaf Mountain. One of the films this place is featured is the fairly fair fetched Bond movie, Moonraker. Roger Moore wrestles with Jaws (the big metal mouthed villain, rather than the big sharp toothed fish) on top of the cable car. I didn’t quite recreate the same drama but the views just got better and better. We got the first cable car to the middle station and took a stroll about. There was a nice breeze and where the clouds have passed we had glorious sunshine. The four of us sat and had the coldest beer I have ever had, and perhaps the most refreshing (I recommend it to all marathon runners). It felt like a chore to leave but as Yaz once sung, “The only way is up ooh baby!..” and that’s exactly where we went as we grabbed the second cable car to the top. The views really were breathtaking. I am fortunate to have seen some great sights in my time (I’m not going to list them all - just re-read the other 20 blogs!) but this will definitely be up there. The pictures from my lame camera won’t do it justice. Rio is a city where in one eyesight you have islands, blue sea, beaches, slums, skyscrapers, rainforest and mountains - all in one eyesight! Quite spectacular from the view of Copacabana beach to the domestic airport which looked like a toy town from our dizzy heights. We cracked open a few more cold beers up there and watched the sun go down. It was one fine day spent with three really nice people. And without doubt will go into my Top Ten Travel Days ever… In the evening I grabbed some food and beers with Dutch Floris who was a well travelled chap. We ended up having beers in the street outside out hostel mixed with other travellers and a few locals who were playing the guitar - I very nearly asked to have a go!.. All in all, one fine day… So far, I like Rio a lot.

(03/12/10) In the morning I chatted to an Aussie guy called George at my hostel and we went to the very nice Ipanema Beach just 5 mins from our hostel. Bearing in mind it is in a city of 7million people it is a very nice beach. The weather was perfect and we sat on some chairs with our head under an umbrella. It was waiter service and we had a few beers and Caipirinhas (popular Brazilian cocktail that is close to a mojito only 10 times stronger and uses local spirit cachaca). We chilled and watched the (very) beautiful world go by.and I felt my pale, unfit body was slightly out of place with all these stunning, bronzed people running by wearing not a lot. Later we were joined by George’s English and Brazilian friends but despite the fact they all spoke English they seemed to speak a lot of Portuguese which I found a bit boring. In fact I didn’t really like George that much as it turned out he was a bit of a cokehead and not really my cup of tea, but regardless I had a nice chilled out day. In the evening I met up with Yon and Adri for an expensive dinner at a restaurant called (translated) The Girl From Ipanema, named after a popular 60’s song which I didn‘t know by name but now recognise the tune. Afterwards we popped back to their bar at hotel before I went back to my hostel to meet Floris and some others to head to the weekly Friday Samba street party in Lapa… IT WAS MENTAL!!.. There must had been 50,000 people or more around just a few streets. The bars overflowed to the streets where locals and gringo would dance alike. We were in a group of 7 or so and we spent a lot of time walking round, which was fine to start with but would had been nice to stay in one place. We met an old Brazilian guy who was the spitting image of Pele and he loved the fact when I told him.. Perhaps it was him??. Floris and I broke off from the group to take in the really cool vibe and drink the cheap beers (a quid!) sold on the street. Was a really good day from start to finish.

(04/12/10) I woke up feeling rather hungover, although was far from drunk last night. Floris, Kyle (Mr G) and I booked a Favela tour we had heard much about. For those not in the know a favela is a slum and might read about a few problems in a couple in north Rio (no where near where we were). I don’t do things I know there is a fair chance of dying but I had so many recommendations I felt I had to give it a go. I wasn’t interested to rival Ross Kemp on Gangs, however I thought it would be worthwhile understanding the plight of others, and almost everyone I have met who has gone to Brazil has visited one. There’s literally thousands in Rio alone and we went to Rocinha, the biggest in South America. We were picked in a Jeep up by Joel, our guide for the day who looked like a cool rapper with his shades and swagger. Before we reached Rocinha, Joel explained about the favelas and showed us quite a few. Rocinha inhabits 200,000 people and the views of the shacks on the mountainside had a kind of Torquay feel!.. The windows had to be down in the Jeep so we could be identified and for the locals to know were not spying on them. We parked up and jumped out. To be honest at this first moment I was a little bit nervous. Joel introduced us to a moustached chap that could had been the real Freddie Mercury. He shook our hands and seemed to like us quite a bit! We were granted freedom to walk about anywhere but we only went about 15feet away at this point. The important thing to know here is that not all the inhabitants are criminals and Joel said that there was only about 1000 gangsters which as a percentage is very small. They have no interest in hurting or mugging us or anyone else as within the favela and they abide by strict laws, as they really don’t want any reason for the police turning up. It was really weird being in a ghetto like this but I after 5 minutes I actually felt safer here than I would walking home from my tube stop late at night in London. We walked up the steepest, bendy hill ever and my idea of wearing flip-flops soon looked as good an idea as my underwater hairdryer idea.. At the top we met two 16/17 year old smoking a joint and they even passed it to Floris who didn’t let his country down and took a puff. I was hoping to honour my country by drinking tea and eating cucumber sandwiches, but the situation never arrived. We then went into someone’s bare home and on to the roof for an amazing view. It’s massive! Interesting to see these slums are about 100metres away from expensive villas which will not be touched at all. We strolled further into the shantytown and had a couple of teenagers whack out a wicked samba beat on some old barrels. Loads of the people who were just hanging out down the alleyways would say hello and some would high-five us. These are nice people! Beforehand I was worried that this tour would be like a human zoo but it really wasn’t like that at all. It was cool to interact and in a weird way I wish my own country adopted the same sense of community and friendliness I experienced in the favela today. It really was something out of the ordinary but an absolute brilliant experience… Later that evening after we popped to the beach for an evening cool down, Floris and I got some pretty average food (most things are barbequed Nandos style) and then went to the big Lagoon in between Ipanema and Corcovado where they had the unveiling of Rio’s Christmas tree in the middle accompanied by some pretty mega (not to mention loud) fireworks. It had been maybe the hottest day yet which made my mini hangover dreadfull and I decided not to go out, despite it being a Saturday night, so chilled in the hostel. I still haven’t been Copacabana yet you know?

(05/12/10) Today is Sunday and the day if the final football matches in he Brazilian season. I was desperate to watch local team Fluminense play Guarani at the Olympic Stadium (The huge 100,000 seater Maracana stadium is being refurbished for the World Cup 2014) as if they win then they will be crowned champions for first time in 26 years. Tickets were $R350 (about 140 quid) and in the end I convinced myself that I was in Brazil for a good time and not a long time so should go for it. I was having some temporary problems withdrawing cash with both my cards so took a loan from an English guy called Scott who not only worked in the hostel but was brought up three roads from where I grew up in West London. He took my laptop as collateral which was fair enough as ATM should be working by the time I return from footy. Anyhow, Kurt (Aussie chap from hostel) and I jumped in a minibus (price included pick up and drop off) for what felt like hours and then got dropped off at the stadium as our minibus was surrounded by what felt like millions of Flu fans. It’s a nice looking stadium with a capacity for about 41,000 which will be more than 60,000 for the Olympics. We had a designated stand rather than seats and managed to get a wicked view just along form the halfway line near the main cameras. The atmosphere was electric and the crowd were constantly chanting in unison and I tried to sing along (I did the tune at least!). Giant flags were being swung, glitter bombs were going off along with fireworks and allsorts! Fluminense have been poor for a decade or so but a few familiar names such as Deco, Belletti (both from Chelsea) and Fred (Maybe form a German team?) have brought a new lease of life into the team… So the match kicked off and I must say the first half in terms of football was absolutely crap! Couldn’t believe it. So many stray passes and the shooting was the equivalent of playing snooker with a length of rope instead of a cue! Not impressed, although the atmosphere was still great. Luckily at around 65minutes, Fluminense scored the winner and the whole stadium went mental!!! I had a 70 year old man wanting to hug me and allsorts!! Fantastico!! At the final whistle there was even more euphoria and people were crying! Looking around, many would had not been born the last time they triumphed. It was great to watch it. After the match we went to our designated pick up spot and waited an hour after the requested time but the git did not turn up.. The stadium is in middle of nowhere and in the end got a rather pricey taxi home. Great experience mind you… The evening then turned a bit crap as still the ATM machines wouldn’t work as I ran around the town in the now torrential rain (first I’ve seen to be fair). I spent ages on the phone to my bank who said they had no problems. As I only had a bit of money left I thought I would play it safe and not go out again so I stayed in having a few beers with Floris and Australian Emily. Frustrating end to the day to be fair, although I plan to be back in Rio before I leave so can go out more then.

(06/12/10) Today was a bit of a nothing again. After struggling to get money out again and getting rather worried as I only had about 50 quid left and owed someone who had my lil laptop hostage! Scott helped me with the ATM and its mad as you have to put card in and out at a certain speed and after 15 attempts it finally worked and I drew out probably more money than I should had.. I said goodbye to the friends I had made and went to the airport. Really cool hostel where everyone knew each other and I absolutely loved Rio. Super vibe. Will stay there again in a couple of weeks. Can’t wait. I caught the 2 hour flight to Foz do Iguacu, the town next to Iguasu Falls on the Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay borders. It’s a crap town with no charm whatsoever, but it’s a needed base for my trip to the falls.

(07/12/10) Myself and about 12 others were picked up for our organised trip to the Argentina side (where more than two thirds of falls are) of the falls (called Puerto Iguazu). I had hoped to meet some chums on this trip as its often a good place but no one was really chatty. I briefly got some words out of a Dutch chap but it was a struggle, so I thought I would just enjoy the sights. Our driver and guide called Gil was a likeably gentleman in a Phil-Scolari-kinda-way. He sorted our passports and after leaving the Brazilian side we stopped on a bridge over a river before we reached the Argentinean side. We could see Brazil to the right, Paraguay straight ahead and Argentina on the left. Not ever had 3 countries in one view before! We passed the Argie side after a bit short delay and there was nothing immediately that looked any different. Not sure what I was expecting really - perhaps everyone looking like that cheat Maradonna or eating steak? Neither was true yet. The entrance to the national park had a sort of well organised Disney feel to it. There were a few choices to get to the falls but I chose the 30 man jeep option and then a speed boat UNDER the falls!.. Was easier than showering in the morning I thought. As we got the boat up river the first thing I thought was we were perhaps on a grander scale of Willy Wonker’s chocolate river as the water was a red/brown colour.. Before we splashed in the falls we were given a dry bag which was surprisingly effective and then we went under a few of the falls. I got as drenched as you would expect. It was quite a short ride for the money but good fun. It was warm enough so soon dried off and then started our trek to the top of them, although I was stuck behind a woman with a walking stick - I’m sure she should not be trekking? On the way we saw various creatures such as colourful butterflies, big lizards, (naughty) caterpillars, toucans and coatimundis which are related to a racoon and I saw one steal someone’s lunch! Moonraker was also filmed at the falls (had to get more Bond references in!). I really regretted not having a decent camera as I don’t think the pics I have do it justice. The place not only is massive but is a stunning spectacle and nature at its finest. Bit of info on the falls for you: The falls are when Rio (Rio means river ok?) Iguacu and Rio Parana join before crashing an down 80metre cliff. There’s 275 falls spreading 3km. Normally 1500 cubic metres flow down per second but as it had been raining the last few days it was at 4000 cubic metres per second today, and that’s why the river is red and not blue as the water level is higher and it picks up more soil etc. If you compare it to Niagra Falls (52metres high, just over a one kilometre wide), its rather big huh?… Anyhow we walked along manmade jetties which go over the top of many of the falls. We then got a mini train to the Devils Throat, U-shaped and the biggest. It really was superb and I naturally got absolutely drenched, although it was nice to cool off. On our way back it started to rain, and I mean RAIN! So much so that whilst queuing to return back to Brazil a parked lorry driver was in the road in his Speedo’s and shampooing his hair in the rain! Nice use of resources I thought. I got back to the hostel and the rain was mental and as we were half way up a large hill the road was like white water. The rain finally did stop and I went to a Japanese restaurant for dinner on my own as there were not many people about in my hostel. It was busy so they put me on a raised area and I was the only one up there so I kinda looked like a performer on stage - “Behold! The amazing noodle eating man!”..There were no encores…

(08/12/10) Later today I get an overnight bus to Sao Paulo. I’ve realised that it’s a year ago today I returned from my big travels from last year. Time does fly. I had some hours free so went to visit the Brazilian side of the falls which although you can’t get as close, you do get a better panoramic view. I made my own way via public bus and really did marvel at the views. It was similar to the views of Pandora in Avatar (I‘ve not been yet, but maybe next year?), and I just hoped that some blue lanky bloke didn’t come up to me with his jibba-jabba. He didn’t. I did mention that just then that you can’t get close to the fools but that said you can go to on a jetty at the bottom of the fools where you sprayed by 3 out of 4 directions. There was another platform higher up where I was just a few metres from the crashing water. I really liked the fools. Amazing natural view and one for the memory bank. Later that evening I somehow managed to locate my 16 hour night bus to Sao Paulo, the countries biggest city.

I have had a wicked first 8 days or so in Brazil. I have had quite a contrasting time in vibrant Rio and the naturally beautiful Iguassu Falls. So far I am liking Brazil a lot… Hopefully I will think the same for the remaining 2 weeks or so.

Bye!

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Photos

Heavenly
Rio near dunset - one of my best pics

Oh Christ!
Me and JC want hugs!!

Comments

[Chris Potter]

I read it from start to finish
Dear Nick thanks for the informative blog on your travels within that there Brazil. It seem's like a lovely place full of exciting and interesting places. I must say, Rio does look beautiful although there seem's to be a few slums around which makes it look like Bermondsey. Continue to write as you do inspire me to read. hope you don't get mugged/raped/killed. Hope life is treating you well. Chris (your flatmate)