caracas to rio overland


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South America » Brazil
February 24th 2006
Published: April 24th 2006
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A Tight SqueezeA Tight SqueezeA Tight Squeeze

not exactly 5 star accommodation but a great experience nonetheless
by tim
The decision made, Brasil here we come. We said our farewells to Scotty, Ross, Yvette, Paul and Claire. Caroline cried which had become fairly normal, but so did Scotty which was quite funny considering she was fairly adamant she wouldn't. On the upside we welcomed some new guy's into the fold. Anna and Magnus from Iceland, Clive and Jane, Wayne and Sarah, Dwight and Harriet, Chrissy, Liz, Lucy and Natasha ( Precious), plus a new co-driver Zoe from Portsmouth which meant, we assumed that AJ must have been demoted to Trolly Dolly.
First stop was Ciudad Bolivar, the main access point for the Angel Falls. We had already been here and seen the falls, but we now returned for the benefit of the new guy's and all the guy's on the last leg that hadn't been the last time around. That meant everybody except for us, Svava and Bill and Margaret who unfortunately couldn't now go because Bill had developed a big problem with his toe and had to spend some time in hospital. The few day's everyone was away we spent most of the time on our own. Margaret spent a lot of her time at the hospital
The Equatorial LineThe Equatorial LineThe Equatorial Line

specially recognised by a big turd with a stick in it
with Bill and Svava was up to her eye's in paperwork. Caroline seemed fairly miserable. It turned out she was regretting the decision not to go to Fiji. Unfortunately so was I, hopefully we would feel differently in a day or two.
The day after everybody got back from the falls we headed for Manaus in Brasil. The trip would take four day's with three bushcamps along the way. That morning we had to bump start the truck because someone had left the lights on all night. Jason got the blame in the end even though it was probably my fault. After lunch we broke a spring. AJ, Zoe and Svava spent the next five hours fixing it, not helped by the rain that poured down, but they did well to get it done by six o'clock. The next day we camped just twenty minute's shy of the Brasilian border so that night we had a punch night to welcome the new guy's to the group. Some of us were a little the worse for wear, weren't we Victoria. Mac decided that throwing some water over Vicky was a good idea. Vicky didn't share the same view and stormed off
My Next Door NeighboursMy Next Door NeighboursMy Next Door Neighbours

i spent most of my time on the boat teasing these two lads who were in the hammock next to mine
in a right huff, only to return a couple of moments later to upend the esky with all the beer in it. Ooo temper temper.
The next day we crossed the border and that night we camped at the Equator which is marked by a big turd with a stick in it ( see photo ). The next day saw us arrive in Manaus, one of the former capital's of Brasil. That evening we discovered the kilo bar, a style of restaurant where you help yourself to whatever you like and pay for it by weight, meaning I could eat as much meat as I liked and could leave all the rabbit food ( salad ) and bird food ( fruit ) to the girlie's. After dinner some of us went to the local bar and got lashed. When the bar shut Mac, Jason, Zoe, Anna and myself got taken to a lap dancing club by Gerry a local guide from the tour company Dragoman sometimes use. Strangely Anna and Zoe decided they didn't like it so they left. When we realised they had gone we figured we should look for them. Gerry told us they had gone to a
Mac, Vicky, and VanceMac, Vicky, and VanceMac, Vicky, and Vance

vicky's the one in the middle
gay bar so Mac, Jason and myself headed for the Blue Oyster Club in hot pursuit. When we arrived I walked STRAIGHT in and searched all the nooks and crannies for the girls but know sign of them. There were, however sign's of a slightly weird nature, one of the strangest being the sight of Mac and Jason half way up the stairs with their backs to the wall looking frightened to death, one of the funniest things I'd seen for day's.
The next day Caroline and myself had a really nice day together wandering around Manaus, doing a bit of shopping etc, but it turned out to be a lull before a storm. After dinner Caroline had more than her fair share of caiparinha's, her new drink of choice, and did a character assasination on me in front of anyone who cared to listen. It would appear she had become a touch less than happy with my treating this trip and the whole of the last trip like a lads weekend. It was a fair point. So I reckoned I'd best kerb my behaviour. The following morning I thought I might wear the new shorts I'd bought yesterday. They
amazonian villagersamazonian villagersamazonian villagers

dozens of canoe's would come and meet the boat as we passed.
had lasted an hour before I discovered that sitting down in them was a mistake and ripped the crotch out of them. All in all things just weren't going my way. That evening after dinner Vicky, Precious Caroline, Jason and myself got some vodka and rum off the truck and stayed in the hotel drinking. I stuck to the coke because I was now on my best behaviour but Caroline didn't. Instead she hit the rum like it was coke, to the point where her face, neck and chest came out in bright red blotches and she had a job to walk. I ended up staying awake until three o'clock in the morning when I was satisfied she would be alright.
We left Manaus around lunchtime after spending four day's there. We were booked on a boat trip that would take us down the Amazon. The sleeping arrangements on the boat were ridiculous so I quickly made the decision to sleep on the floor. Caroline had bought a new denim skirt in the morning. It was nice but really short. While she was stood by the outside railings of the boat she noticed somebody laughing and waving at her from the adjacent boat below. It was a Brasilian chap who'd been getting a real good look at her knickers. Caroline couldn't understand what he was saying but I reckon it was along the lines of " thanks very much, you've made my day ".
The journey would take us 1000 miles along the Amazon river and would take five day's. The condition's were fairly grim and sleep would be minimal but definately a great experience. A stop in the town of Santarem proved to be a real blessing. Some of us chose to take a room in a hostel for a night. The next morning our decision appeared to be the right one judging by the tired and miserable appearance of those who chose to stay on board. A change of boat also proved to be a bonus for me. I now had a space for a hammock. There wasn't a lot to occupy ourselves on board, although I managed to wile away many an hour teasing the kids that were in the hammock next to me. Unfortunately they had the last laugh. On the last night the youngest lad managed to pooh in his trousers, leaving me unable to sleep due to the stench. Bless him!
A few days later and yet another boat ride we found ourselves in Sao Luis. My cook group were next up for shopping . We had decided on chicken curry so we went to the local market to get our supplies, where we discovered our dinner was still running around in a cage. The idea was you chose the bird(s) you wanted and the stall holder would kill, gut and pluck them while you wait. Well you couldn't complain they weren't fresh. Luckily we spotted some they had done earlier and had them instead. Mind you they were still very warm and I'm sure one of them still had a heartbeat. I noticed that Vicky and Lucy had turned several shades of green so we finished up and left.
Our visit to Praia Da Pipa proved to be quite eventful for me. The first night we got fairly drunk and I ended up in the pool playing waterpolo with Mac, Richy, Vance, Jason, Anna and Precious. Unfortunately Mac had managed to get horribly sunburnt a couple of days before and it had blistered quite badly. The waterpolo turned into water wrestling and in
Oasis MasterclassOasis MasterclassOasis Masterclass

name that tune
the rough and tumble of the game I managed to pop some of Mac's blisters for him. The next day Caroline, Lucy, Vicky and Zoe started on the caiparinha's after lunch. They drank all day with Caroline getting some respite ( although minimal ) due to her involvement with the cook group. Jason, Wayne, Magnus, Lucy and myself had booked to go on a fishing trip in the early hours of the following morning so we weren't drinking, except Lucy that is. Plus I was still on my best behaviour. I decided not to go to sleep which was a mistake and the girls decided not to stop drinking. Caroline tore me off another strip for reasons unknown, and once more in front of everyone. The guy's taking us fishing turned up at 4.00 am, by 4.30 we were on the boat and by 5.00 I had caught the first fish of the day. I had no idea what it was called and I didn't really care much. By 5.15 am Lucy was asleep in the hull of the boat, where she would stay until we got back and by 6.00 I was asleep too. When I got back to
Kitchen at Praia da PipaKitchen at Praia da PipaKitchen at Praia da Pipa

complete with all mod cons
the hostel Caroline informed me we had had some washing nicked off the line. This included the only pair of shorts I had except the manky things I was wearing so instead of getting my head down, I ended up walking around town shopping.
We got to Salvador a couple days later. Svava reckoned this city was a bit dodgy and there was a real possibility of being mugged. We had to park the truck 300 meters away so getting our bags to the hostel turned into a military exercise. That night we went to a traditional Bahian cultural show. There were a lot of fit half naked blokes that pleased most of the girls and there were a lot of fit overdressed girls that didn't please us guy's.
Some of the group left the trip to head down to a town called Parity where they intended to meet up with Jay a tour leader from a previous trip and bum a ride back to Rio on his truck where we would all meet up later. Vance, Donna, Mac, Vicky and Lucy dubbed the SPLINTER CELL had been planning the split for some weeks. Caroline and I had been a bit worried by their decision to leave ever since they had told us of their plans. The new members of our group hadn't really involved themselves with us, the existing members of the group which had caused a noticeable divide. Teamwork hadn't really existed since the start of this leg, with one or two people having a definite me first attitude and a tendency to gripe (not openly) but to Svava about petty minded and selfish issues. We had been concerned that our trip would be really dull with them not being there for a while. By the time it had come for them to leave I had managed to convince myself that with the splinter cell missing the group as a whole would be far better off and everybody would get on really well. I was wrong, things just got worse, we were just glad we still had Jason, Rich, Precious and Tony on the truck or we would have considered leaving as well.
Svava's concerns about the dangers of Salvador were proved founded with the mugging of Clive and Jane. Fortunately they survived even though their cash and credit card didn't.
A couple of days after leaving
Me at Sete Cidades ( seven cities )Me at Sete Cidades ( seven cities )Me at Sete Cidades ( seven cities )

caroline thinks i look like an arab. i think i look like a pillock.
Salvador I received a missed call on my phone from Carolines mum Rosemary. I guessed it was bad news about our dog Buster. It was, he'd had a stroke the previous evening and was at the vet's. We always new we weren't likely to see him again when we left. He was 14 yrs old, he'd had a tuma in his leg for ages and he had bad arthritis in his back, but it was still tough making the decision to let him go although it must have been equally harsh on Rosemary who had to deal with it back home.
Once in Porto Segura we had a few things to keep us occupied. Cook group shopping was upon us, Rich and I had to get something to wear for the red and black ball in Rio and we were , as usual, miles behind with our journal. We went in to town. I left Caroline at the internet cafe and Richy and I headed to the shops. First stop, the bar across the street for a couple of beers. While we were sat there we were joined by a couple of unfortunate looking girls. One of them took a
Life Before DeathLife Before DeathLife Before Death

just kidding, the food was usually pretty good
fancy to Richy but the feeling wasn't mutual so we drank up and left before they started looking attractive. That evening we were joined at the campsite by the Encounter truck. Encounter are a joint venture company with Dragoman that run similar trips without any thrills. Kieron their trip leader and I decided over a beer that it would be a good idea to pool our food and have a joint dinner in a couple of nights time.
The next day we headed for the mountains and Camp Montanha. The Encounter truck was already there and that evening after dinner their guy's joined us. However, those people in our group who hadn't gone to bed formed their own little circle some 10 to 15 meters away. Rich, Caroline, Jason, Precious and myself were clearing up after dinner and couldn't finish up quickly enough to redeem the awkward situation. I'm not sure they meant to be rude but it sure came across that way. The next day Svava pulled Kieron and myself to one side and informed us that the eating together idea for that evening had met some resistance by someone who didn't like the fact they hadn't been consulted about it. They had also assumed the meal would be coming out of our kitty alone. Consequently the joint dinner was cancelled along with the enjoyment of the majority because of the negative and petty attitude of the few, or the one as we would later discover. I needed to get away from the group so Caroline and I went to the pool area with Jason and Rich for a couple of beers and a good old whinge. Jason started off by taking the whole issue in his stride and doing his best to appease me because I was really angry. After several drinks the tables had turned. I had calmed down and was positively chirpy but I had managed to get Jason really niggly to the point where he became a man on a mission. That evening after dinner we all gathered for our usual group meeting. Svava started off as was normal, but Jason stepped forward with the words " excuse me a minute but can I just say something". Judging by his new found bad mood this could and indeed would be a bad thing to do but the words " shut up Jase " just couldn't
Beach BushcampBeach BushcampBeach Bushcamp

the group with the truck at the turtle reserve
find their way out of my mouth so I just let my head sink in to my hands and listened to Jason running through the events of the previous evening before accusing certain members of the group of insulting the encounter guy's. Jason didn't accuse anybody by name but he didn't really need to. The people responsible knew who they were because they were the ones who flew into fits of rage. The meeting ended prematurely and it was several day's before these people would speak to Jason again.
We finally had our joint dinner the last night of the trip, the night before we got into Rio. It absolutely chucked it down with rain and we got drenched. It was a good laugh but quite ironic, although it summed up the whole six and a half weeks for me. Bright and breezy on the whole with the occassional wet fart trying to rain on our parade.

Our time through Brasil was great and although we had some quite negative moments they were largely interspersed with some really good times in some really cool places with some fantastic people. The difference between this trip and the last one
Bahian DancerBahian DancerBahian Dancer

one of the dancers from the bahian cultural performance
around Venezuela was the lack of activities. In Venezuela we seemed to have a lot going on all the time but through Brasil, although the country is beautiful, there seemed to be a real lack of things to occupy everybody. This I feel gave people too much time to reflect on the negative aspects of the trip which led to unneccessary tension.
Having said that, we found everybody om the truck to be very nice on a personal level and inspite of everything we have no regrets on doing this trip.

By Caroline
day 49
Today we drive back to Ciudad Bolivar. Unfortunatly one of the chairs in the hotel got broken last night after, Anna deciced to dump her self on Mac's lap, so we are late leaving making it 8.30am.
We finally arrive at about 5.30pm, it's been a long day. After dinner Svava sorts out the truck jobs, this time I'm on truck clean. Harriet asks me to swop as she has'nt got a job. I don't know why she didn't put her hand up when we were asked if we all had jobs. So I agree, not realising her other half is sharing the job.
Caroline in her BikiniCaroline in her BikiniCaroline in her Bikini

specially for you amo
Couples aren't supposed to work together. I think I've been had, very sneaky. After checking with Svava I get my job back but I don't think I'm very popular with Harriet, never mind.
Day 50
The rest of the group leave early for Angel Falls, so it's just Bill, Marg, Svava, Tim and I.
Plenty of time to chill out, it's very quiet though. Bill and Marg go off to the hospital this afternoon to have Bills toe looked at. Unfortunately they have to keep him in so they can clean it up. They have had to go right down to the bone yuck. The sad thing is they are going to have to go home. Marg arrives back from the hospital so she can collect a few of Bill's things. Tim, Svava and I had dinner with a few of the other guest's.
Day 51
This morning we are taking the shuttle into town. The town is bit dirty, smelly and very noisy, they seem to have stereo's blasting out on every street corner. We manage to get our shopping done with the help of sign language and a phrase book. On the way back we pick up Marg from the hospital, Bill still has to stay in. Time for a swim and chill out before dinner, ended up in one of the hammocks, it's just to hot sleeping in a tent.
Day 52
This morning we visit Bill. While we are there the doctor comes into dress his wounds, I can't look. We leave Marg with Bill while we go and find a cash point and internet. We meet Marg back at the hospital for lunch before saying are final goodbyes to Bill, we are leaving in the morning. Trying to get a taxi back was another story though. None of them seemed to know where the posada was, but after about the tenth attempt we get there. By the time we have a swim everyone else is arriving back, it's great to see them, things have been far to quite. Time for beer.
Day 53
Someones left the spot lights on, oops! flat battery. Guess that means a push start, not funny with a 16 ton truck, good job theirs 24 of us. After truck photos for Marg, sorry your not coming with us guy's. It's on the road, quick stop at the supermarket on the way to stock up. Lunch stop turned in to my worst nightmare, of all the places in the world, we stop near a wasp nest and if you don't know, wasps are my most feared phobia.
Sorry guy's for being such a baby. They had to pick me up down the road because I would'nt get back on the truck while it was parked there. Then I had Harriet trying to tell me they were flying ants. My arse, but nice try.
10 minutes later we had to pull off the road. One of the front springs has gone.
Off we all get, then just to add insult to injury it starts raining so its out with the tarps. The guys mange to rig up the awning. By 4.00pm we decide to get on with cooking the evening meal.
Svava, Zoe and Aj finish fixing the truck just as we finish dinner, three cheers for you guy's, fantastic job. By now its dark but wer'e driving on for a couple of hours. We finally pull up at a school for the night, they say we can use it as long as we are gone by 6.00am.
Day 54
Today
SalvadorSalvadorSalvador

a view across the lake towards the football stadium
is a long drive day, we're driving through the Savannah area, it's very beautiful, stopping at several waterfalls. 4.00pm we pull ito a small town and as usual the people are very friendly. A girl asks me if it's ok for her to take my picture, strange but hey we've taken enough pictures of them. Camp is only another 10k, we can choose to stay in dorms and as I'm feeling crook I have an early night. Shame, I miss a punch night. If I still feel rough tomorrow I'm gonna have to give in to the antibiotics.
Day 55
Today we head for the border, we have a bit of hanging about as it takes a while to get the truck through. While we wait we have a whip round for left over bollies and buy a hammock which is raffled off between all those that contributed. Magnus is the winner.
Back on the road we head for the equator, arriving at about 7.30 by which time it's dark, once we've had supper we hit the sack.
Day 56
It poured with rain all night so the tents are soaking. After packing up we take a few photo's of
Me By The Pool Me By The Pool Me By The Pool

the hotel in salvador
the monument which looks like a big lump of pooh with a hockey stick in the middle, and head on. Driving for a few hours through an Indian reserve, no toilet stops but as Svava says we don't want any arrows in bums.We arrive in Manaus at about 2.00pm. After our evening meal and first Caiparinha's we head up to a small bar, just up from the hotel it's very lively although the music leaves a bit to be desired.We meet up with some of Encounter guy's, by 12pm I head for bed before I fall down. I slept till 3am. Tim still was'nt back so I got up and did some washing and stuff. Tim rolled in about 4am, I still couldn't sleep so I never went back to bed. I'm gonna be knackered in the morning.
Day 57
This morning I go shopping with Vick and Lucy, great place to shop. We have lunch at a kilo place, you just choose what you want then you pay for it by weight. At 3pm we headed for the market to buy hammocks for the boat trip. Tonight we are going on a group meal to celebrate Dwight's birthday. One minor problem. He's not well so we have to go without him.
The meal was lovely and you could eat as much or as little as you wanted for a set price.
After, some of us went up to the square for a few drinks it's not very lively for a friday night.
Day 58
Tim and I go shopping this morning. I'm trying to find a top for the black and red ball in Rio.
We stopped at the kilo place again for lunch. Tonight we end up back at the kilo place, although in the evening it turns into a restaurant.
Hoping of a good night out as it's saturday. We start at the square but everywhere seems dead so much for a good night out, Tim and I just end up having a barney, oh great!
Day 59
Guess what ? shopping again, Jason comes with us this time, Tim brought some nice shirts maybe he'll tell you about them, they're really gay. I've managed to find another denim skirt, my other one got to big, must be the heat. Lunch again at the kilo place, do you get the idea, we like this place. This afternoon we found the kilo icecream place, yes you've guessed it they sell ice cream by the kilo as well. I'll leave you guessing where we had supper but no points.
Day 60
This morning I'm employed in bleaching Mac's hair and beard, Tim's disappeared to the internet. 2pm we head for the boat for our 1000 mile trip down the Amazon river ,destination Belhem. Our hammocks were taken down for us this morning which was a big mistake, you've never seem anything like it, mine and Tim's are running S shaped in the middle, we can't even get in them let alone sleep. After we have a bit of a move around, some deciding to sleep on the floor, everyone seems reasonably happy. Svava reckons the next boat will be bigger so here's hoping. The good thing is the boat has a fair size open upper deck so we can get up there in the day and soak up some ray's.
Day61
After not having much sleep, breakfast is an exciting bread roll and the sweetest coffee I've ever tasted, I like sugar buts thats taking biscuit. I spend the morning up on the top deck reading and chatting. Mean while down stairs Clive, one of the group has cut his leg open on his leatherman. It's gonna have to be stitched but he'll have to wait till we get to Santarem.
Lunch is chicken stew with rice, beans and pasta, tastes ok though.
The afternoon is spent much like the morning, I'm trying to avoid the toilets as much as possible as they stink. The only way to describe them, is like the whole cabin has been impregnated with urine. The showers are also in with the toilet but I don't think I can hold my breath long enough to have one.
Again didn't get much sleep, dozed on and off all night, it also chucked it down, those on the floor got a bit wet.
Day 62
Arrived in Santarem this morning. Tim's gone off with Mac to find some digs. At least we can have a proper bed tonight.
A shower and some washing won't go a miss either, only brought one change of clothes with us, nice!.
Spent the day wandering around the place and arranged to meet up with the others staying in the hostel for dinner. I can't believe half the group opted to stay on board. You know I told you yesterdays lunch menu, well that was also the supper menu, in fact
the only menu for the 2 day's.
Day 63
Well we have an early start but boy was it worth it.
Back at the boat it's 6.30, everyones off and sitting on the side of the dock,I'ts nice to see team spirit working at its best, If we'd have stayed behind or had still been with the Caracus group, we'd have unloaded everyones gear but oh no not this lot, is the picture building?. As I said earlier we're all hoping the second boat will be bigger. It arrives at 10am only an hour late and yes it gets worse it's even smaller with no top deck to escape. The captain also manages to crash it into the dock, that's reasuring. It's a mad dash for us all to put up our hammocks, its still going to be very cosy and some still end up on the floor.
Next to us we have a Brasilian women with two small boys and two baby girls. They are a real pleasure and the children are really well behaved. Meant to sail at 12pm but people and cargo still coming on board I'm suprised we're still floating. Finally set sail at 2.30pm
Tonight I'm gonna have to hit the rum and hopfully sleep a bit.
Day 64
Today the bordom is really setting in, it's to hot in the hammocks and uncomfortable on the floor. Half our group have gone down with a sickness bug. The two boys are busy playing with flip flops.The toilets are less smelly so I think I 'll brave the shower. During the night we stop off and out of the blue, thousands of flying insects appear, time to get the mozzie net out.
Suelem one of the boy's aunties has made me a lovely bead bracelet. Didn't sleep well, just to hot.
Day 65
Our last day on the boat, manage tho have a conversation with Suelem with the aid of a phrase book and sign language, she also gave me earrings and necklace to match my bracelet.
We've taken some good pictures of the boys and one of her and I, so when we get the chance I'll email them on to her. Arrived in Belem at 11am, jumped in taxi's to the hotel everyones hitting Micky D's for lunch, it's a relief to get away from the boat food. This evening we took a walk along the waterfront it's a bit like Gunwharf Quays, can't say I went much on the meal we had, still it's the first one I haven't really enjoyed.
Day 66
After breakfast we had a group meeting, it turns out the barge the truck is on broke down so we'll have to spend another night in Belem. Sadly it's Micky D's again and a visit to the Micro Brewery this evening hoping to catch a good sunset, unfortunately it's raining.
Day 67
The truck is meant to be here at 11am , spend the morning buying truck food. It finally arrives at 12.30pm once Zoe and AJ are showered we get going. Bush camping tonight is in a service station which is great at least we have toilets, even though the grounds a bit rough.
Day 68
Head off for the Alcantara ferry which will take us to Sao Luis. Alcantara being home to the oldest whipping post in Brasil. We board the passenger ferry at 3pm, turns into quite a rough crossing people are throwing up all over the place, nice. Once wer'e off the ferry we have a short walk to the hostel, mind you most of that is up hill, boiling hot and humid.
After a quick shower and change we head off for supper hoping the truck will have arrived when we get back. 11pm and it's still not arrived, glad I had a change of clothes with me.
Day 69
It turns out the truck arrived at 1am this morning Svava and Zoe saying they were lucky to get there then, it was so busy, fortunately they put on an extra ferry.
Tim's gone of shopping with his cook group, lucky me I get to do some washing. Meet Vicky and Mac at the kilo place for lunch. This afternoon we have to sort out our flight from Rio.
That was easier said then done, not being able to speak the language makes it a nightmare, still 3 hrs and an extra 1000 quid later the agent managed to get us flights, he's a gem. We have another good meal at the same place as last night, washed down with a few Caprioskas to numb the walk back up the hill and the pain in Tim's wallet well thats our excuse anyway.
Day 70
We left Sao Luis around 8am. Drive time for today about 10/11 hrs, arrived at hotel camp grounds (Sete Cidades) about 6pm still very hot and humid glad of the showers.
Day 71
After a tour of the Sete Cidades (Seven Cities) which is a group of natural stone monoliths.
We drive on to Jericoacoara, we can't drive the truck right into it so it has to be left in a small town nearby. From here it's a 15k drive in 4wd's over the sand dunes. Our driver seemed to be in a race and in doing so got us stuck, so we had to jump out and push.
Jericoacoara is a fantasic little place everything is on sand. After wev'e all been allocated rooms, us and the usual guy's head over the road for dinner. After dinner we found a bar on the beach and when that closed they had little stalls selling drinks of all descriptions. I think Zoe, Tim and I got to bed about 4am.
Day 72
As you can imagine we didn't get up till 10am, after breakfast we headed for the beach. Massive beach with giant sand dunes in the back ground, quite weird. We then meet Jason, Rich, Anna, Donna and Vance in the kilo icecream place, just what you need in this heat.
Chilled out on the beach in the afternoon.Pizza for supper and back for a meeting to decide if we're going to stay another night.
Day 73
Decision made me move out at 8am. Had to stop for truck shopping on the way in a small town. I think this must be the hottest place on earth, can't wait to get moving again. The scenery is changing all the time as we drive through this huge country,from very green jungle type areas to very dry arid, almost desert, and very flat grassland areas.
Arrived at our first beach bushcamp, the truck did get stuck but nothing to major. After dinner Vicky,Mac, Lucy,Tim and I stayed up for a few beer's, one of those nights when I had my silly head on, ended up with a sing song can't imagine we are very tuneful and I'm trying to do cartwheels. WHY?
Day 74
9 hr's drive today heading for Praia Da Pipa another beach resort, staying on a camp site.
However it was more of a building site, Anna got stuck in the loo, the kitchen was unusable,
which is a shame, as that puts pay to Donna's apple crumble.
Svava and Zoe decide it's best to go and find us some digs. Luckily they managed to get us into a couple of posada's which are close together. One of them as a pool which we can all use during the day,we can also use the patio area to cook truck dinner's, marvellous.
Day 75
My cook group is cooking a BBQ tonight so after a quick shop,I find myself by the pool, after lunch we have a few Caiparinha's. Lucy is getting quite familier with the barman who asks her to a reggae party tonight so the rest of us girls invite ourselves along. After a delicious BBQ the girls sit down and have a good old sing song, sorry guy's if it was a bit like a cats choir.
11pm we headed off to the bar at the end of the road it turned out to be a live band they were great!.We left at 2.30am with it still going strong. Back at the Posada Vic and I have a swim it's the first time I've felt really cold for weeks. Tims getting ready to go sea fishing when I get back at 3.30am.
Day 76
I'm back round the pool this morning, the fishermen get back about 1.pm. Tim and I had some washing stolen off the line when we got up this morning so we go shopping to replace it this afternoon. Trying to replace a bikini in Brasil proves to be a bit of a challange they seem to think the smaller the better. Tonight is another BBQ, the guy's are cooking the Wahau Magnus caught this morning, very tasty too.
Day 77
Driving to Olinda today about 5 hrs situated next door to Recife, arrived about 2pm. After a quick trip into town, we get back for a dip in the pool and a few beer's.
Day 78
Along drive day today. Left at 7.30am, arrived at our bush camp at the turtle reserve, still not sleeping well but I don't think many of us are.
Day 79
Wide awake at 5.40am, I think Mac's been up all night. After breakfast it's a short walk along the beach to the reserve, yet again a massive white sandy expanse as far as you can see.
At the reserve you can see the marked out hatching area's, a few large turtles in tanks which is never ideal but these things never are, and a small information centre. It's great to see efforts being made to look after these magnificent creatures.
9.30am we set of for Salvador, arrive about 4.30pm. It's a bit of a devil getting everyone's bags to the hotel from the truck park but it's a lovely hotel and yes, another swimming pool, (Svava your spoiling us).Tonight we are going to a traditional Bahia dancing show, this is a mix of African and Brasilian dance, The show is very lively and the costumes are stunning.
After, we head up stairs for traditional Bahian dishes, which consisted of various stew type dishes with assorted rice's and pulse's, would'nt want it every day but it was ok. Tomorrow the splinter cell are leaving us namely Donna, Vance, Mac, Lucy and Vic, we won't see them till we get to Rio, so it's a good excuse to stay up for a few jar's. (boy did we miss you guy's).
Day 80
Time to catch up on some internet. Lunch at the hotel. Pizza, Pizza or Pizza not very exciting.
This afternoon I'm cutting Zoe's hair, then ended up in the pool having mad races. Tonight we go off to Mama Bahia's, fantastic meal with free Caiparinha's, can't be bad.
Day 81
Back to the internet this morning, 1.15pm we shot back to see the spinter cell off. This afternoon we have a 3hr city tour, we drove through the lower city only getting out at certain places as it's considerd too dangerous in some parts. Unfortunately the church of Bofem was closed. Shame I think it would have been interesting. The drive also took us to the favela's
which is the poorest part of the city. Again we couldn't get out making it difficult to take photo's, the tour finished at the far end of the bay where the light house stands
With the spinter cell gone it's just Tim, Rich Jas, AJ, Svava and I that go out for a meal tonight we decide to go back to Mama Bahia's as Svav can't resist those garlic potato's.
Day 82
Yet another morning in the internet, I finally finish my Caracas blog and would you believe the power goes, God I hope I saved it, Oh well have to wait and see.
Spent the afternoon round the pool, back on the road tomorrow so might as well make the most of it. This evening we decided to find somewhere else to eat, Precious led the way, the place she had in mind was too busy, so plan B, we found an internet cafe with a restaurant great food. On the way back were hoping to pick up the boy's outfits for the black and red ball but alas the shop is closed.
Day 83
Sorry to be leaving Salvador it's been a great city. Getting our bags back to the truck park is a little unerving don't feel quite so safe on this street. Supposed to be bush camping on the beach tonight but it's decide to push on so we have less driving tomorrow.We pull into a servo attached to a hotel. Toilets and showers, Hoorah!.
Day 84
This morning we get the dreaded news Buster had a stoke last night, although we new this would probably happen while we we're away, I'm sorry I can't be there he's been a great buddy, I'll miss him very much, sorry mum you've had to deal with it.
We arrive in Porto Seguro at 12.30pm, after lunch we take the bus into town Tim and Rich are shopping for their red and black ball outfits, Precious and I hit the internet, lucky I didnt lose any in Salvador. On the way back Precious and I decide to buy stuff to make Caprioska's. Tim and Rich pick up some lovely lovely chocalate cake as a treat for everyone especially Svava. Unfortunaly the limes we bought weren't limes, turned out they were a cross between a lime and an orange, making the Caprioska's very unsuccessful, never mind try again tomorrow.
It's 3.30am I'm still awake, someones pulled up outside the campsite and their having a street party. In the end I get up and bump into Jas I'm not the only one that can't sleep,it finally stops at 4am time to see if we can get some shut eye.
Day 85
I'm awake again at 8am the tents to hot so I might as well get up.Tims gone shopping I better do a few chores.Then it's back to the pool.Lunch, we had on the beach. Ended up having a few more beers than we'd planned oops. Back at camp we bump into Jas, Rich and Wayne. They want a beer so we head back to the bar, the beach is beautiful. There's a lot of people about. I'm the only one it seems that needs to cool off, or sober up maybe.
I brought some earings off a beach seller for the black and red ball which cost about a pound. He also gave me 2 ankle bracelets for free, work that out?. Tim managed to get some limes this morning so after supper we make some Caprioska's. End up staying up till the early hours but at least I did sleep when I finally got there.
Day 86
Drive day destination Camp Montanha,we arrive after dark. Encounter have arrived before us and offer to help put tents up. Tim and I decide to take a room as it's the last chance we get before Rio. The rooms are very quaint, a bit like a Swiss chalet, with is frilly gingham curtains. After dinner the Encounter guy's come and join us for a drink, but as usual half the group are being anti soical. Supposed to be sharing a meal tomorrow.
Day 87
Oh well the shared meal isn't happening, no suprise there. Getting pretty cheesed off with the petty mindedness of the few. Can you believe someone is actually moaning about where the money for the ice is coming from, at about 1 pound 25 a bag. ( Ice for cooling beer and soft drinks). bearing in mind its's only 2 bags a day.
We had booked to go rafting this afternoon but decide to swap with Clive and Jane. Glad we did you should have seen the bites they came back with. Instead we spend the time chatting with Hannah. Who is with us to find out how Dragoman is working on the road, and how things could be improved. After dinner things with the group come to a bit of a head, oop's.(Well done Jas). We decide to join the Encounter guy's again, the atmosphere in are group is getting boring. Looking forward to Rio
Day 88
Today we drive to Orah Preto. It's my cook group today so we stop and shop on the way. The town we stop in is pretty useless, can't get what we need, we'll have to try later. We arrive in camp yet again in the dark, still we managed to get the shopping we're having sweet and sour pork. As usual Encounter arrive before us probably because they don't have so many ice cream stops.
Day 89
This morning we have a trip to the gold and precious stone mines. At the gold mine we get lowered on a little cart thing a bit like one of those dodgy fair ground rides.The mine is no longer in operation. Work ceased about 20 years ago, it's said they recovered about 35 tons of gold during it's working life. It didn't seem a lot until you saw the laborious way in which it is retrieved. On to the precious stone mine This is still being worked, unlike the gold mine this is all above ground. The stones they are mining for are topaz if we wanted we could have a go, none of us had any luck however. Kieran dropped us off in town, it's very picturesque with cobble streets only thing was it was all up hill. Meet up with Jas for lunch then took a taxi back, I didn't fancy the 50 minute walk back in that heat. Tonight is punch night joining up with the Encounter guy's, hoping to go over to the night club after which went on till about 4am this morning. Had a great night, the club did'nt happen it was shut. Your never quite sure how it works round here, they have things on, on all sorts of stange nights, not like home when most things happen at the weekend. Finally got to bed about 4am.
Day 90
Well, I have to say I don't feel to great this morning. We have to clean the tents down. Todays our last camp night. Got some chill out time this afternoon, 4pm it's truck clean to get Cameron all spruced up for her next trip.This evening we're having a BBQ with the Encounter guy's, it's decided to finish up all the left over bottles of whatever and make another punch. I think I'll opt out though, still feeling a bit jaded. Just as the guy's started cooking it bucketed down so there we are trying to hold a tarpaulin over them. I think we all got pretty soaked, still what a laugh. By 10pm I can hardly keep my eyes open so it's off to bed for me.
Day 91
This morning set of about 6am. Camerons got a flat battery again, good job were parked on a slope this time. Stop on route for breakfast though there's not much on offer, I end up with last nights cold sausages and choccie cake. Finally we arrive in Rio at 3.30pm.
Something has gone wrong with the room bookings, we end up having to share with Wayne and Sarah. I don't think she's best pleased. This evening we have a birthday celebration meal for Harriet and Clive. We also join up with Encounter. Well all in all it's been a fab trip although it's a shame that the group was so spilt. On an individual basis everyone was really nice but sometimes it only takes for one individual to cause a stir, even if they don't know they are doing it. Still really looking forward to the Rio leg and meeting up with Mac, Vic, Lucy, Vance, and Donna. Big thanks to all our like minded buddies you were great. Thank you also Svava, AJ, Zoe, Kieran and Hannah, for putting up with us rabble.


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24th April 2006

Thanks for the update. You are both looking so well. Obviously this lifestyle clearly suits. Take care. xx
24th April 2006

Nice
Still having a great time then guys don't moan about the heat its only just warmed up a bit over here have a good time in Rio
24th April 2006

enjoying your updates
nothing to report this end which can match your news but enjoyng hearing what you're getting up to
26th April 2006

Heya! Oh my god, this trip seems so far away ! So many funny memories that sprung up in my mind, specially the Oasis dancing in St. Helena. You looked like you had been hipnotised by aliens. Hope you are in good form wherever you are sitting now for a beer. Myself and Kieran bought ourselfs a Land Rover yesterday, it is a sexy beast. Dont know if I had sent you our webpage already, please come for a visit :) http://www.barnaland.is/barn/45572 All the best, love Svava
4th May 2006

Nice to hear from you both
After reading both reports I am glad I had to return home. As for my right big toe it has finally healed and everything is ok at this end. Keep up with the reports as we enjoy reading them.
6th May 2006

The adventure continues
Cannot believe the things you have both done, and still a long way to go Caroline you look fantastic, and not a hair dryer or a can of st tropez insight. Tim you sound very settled obviously a traveller at heart. Can't wait for next Blog Lots of Love and keep safe xxxxx
18th May 2006

Love you guys
Great read! No idea how much I wish I was with you! Keep on rocking!!!!! Can't wait for the next one.

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