Oi from Rio

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Rio is a city of contrasts. From the amazing beaches to the uninhabitable black rock mountain peaks that quickly rise out of the ocean to form a striking addition to the skyline. From the wealth of Ipanema and Leblon to the abject poverty of the favelas (shanty towns) numbering some 500 neighborhoods ranging from tent and cardboard cities to cinder block and tin roof buildings, riddled with crime and hopelessness. In these areas, families are given free water, electricity and rent along with 300 Reais (about $150) a month to live.

Luckily, I didn´t venture into any of the favelas, staying in the moderate safety of the touristy areas. Arriving on Thursday morning, I have spent the last four nights at the Lighthouse Hostel (very good) in Ipanema and will meet up with my GAP tour group tonight in Copacabana.

A guided city tour in Rio is a must. The interesting sites are too far apart and the city is too difficult to navigate on your own to do everything by yourself. Portuguese is the official language here and while some folks speak Spanish and/or English, they do so begrudingly, so communication is quite an issue.

I went on a full city tour on Friday, along with some English guys from my hostel. We visited Christ the Redeemer Statue, Sugar Loaf Mountain, Maracana Stadium, the Sambadrome where the Carnaval parades are held, the Catedral, and some other places. I´ll put up pictures at my next stop as the outlets on this computer are busted.

Saturday was spent on Ipanema Beach, the most crowded and beautiful beach I have ever been to. Cariocas (people of Rio) wear swimwear that would be considered quite scandalous anywhere else, but they pull it off.

Sunday, we went to Maracana Stadium, the third largest soccer stadium in the world, with a capacity around 140,000 to see the final of the Rio championship between Flamengo & Botafogo. There are 4 pro soccer teams in Rio and they play a tournament each year and this was the championship game. Flamengo won 1-0 in a pretty boring game on the field, but exciting game in the stands. There was singing, dancing, drumming, chanting, flags, and banners all game long. Fans of each team have to use separate entrances so that they don´t fight and are seated on separate ends of the field. There are huge walls erected so fans can´t go on the other team´s side and a moat around the field so they can´t run on the field. It was the craziest sporting event I have ever been to and I didn´t know who the players were or care who won.

The food and nightlife here have been interesting as well. I tried feiojaida, the national dish of stewed meat, beans and rice, and don´t need to eat it again. Friday night was a street party in an area called Lapa where all the bars open their doors and everyone drank on the street. No outside drinking laws here and it´s been in the upper 80s so it´s still pretty warm at night. We went to the Rio Scenarium (thanks for the recommendation) which was an amazing club. Saturday in the Lagoa neighborhood at Katmandu was also impressive. I have gotten used to paying extra because I´m a Gringo and don´t speak Portuguese. It´s part of the travel experience.

Today I moved to Copacabana and saw the beach and the Copacabana Palace Hotel, one of the world´s great hotels and the place that put Rio on the map. Ipanema is still better than Copacabana with a better beach, calmer and nicer neighborhood, less people and safer, so head there if coming to Rio.

Rio is definintely not the safest city in the world but there is probably a little too much hype about the crime. If anything, the reputation makes you take extra precautions and not carry around any unnecessary cash or stuff. It´s crowded, traffic is intense and people have a different sense of individual space so it often feels like people are right on top of you but there aren´t muggers waiting around every corner. It´s definitely not like the American suburbs but you just have to be smart and aware of your surroundings.

I´ve also noticed a slight lack of Americans here. My flight down was mostly Brazilians and the hostel, along with the other hostels in the neighborhood were mostly British, Irish, Aussie and Kiwi. I´ll try to figure out the lack of Americans later. Maybe it´s the VISA requirement or the negative reputation that Rio has at home.

It´s time to head to the hotel to meet my tour group. Heading to Ilha Grande tomorrow, an island off the coast with no cars and no ATMs. Will keep you posted and will post pictures when I find a computer that will let me.

Keep me posted of all the interesting things going on at home,

Tchou,
Blake

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