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Published: April 17th 2008
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Pantanal
A rather more wild Coati. (It wasn't trying to see if we had choccy biscuits!) Fourteen hours overnight on a bus, three and a half hours in a car, one and a half hours in a 4x4 down a very wet and bumpy track, and one and a half hours in a boat......300 Reais. Arriving at an air conditioned lodge with lunch waiting......priceless.
We had made it to Brazils' wetland area known as the Pantanal, and were immediately introduced to our guide who was keen for us to join him on that afternoons walk. He advised us that as it was the end of the rainy season the path was still "a bit wet" so we should wear sandals. Laura discovered that stopping to admire the army of ants crossing the path, whilst wearing sandals, was not the best idea she'd ever had. Then, after wading through three knee deep brown rivers we stumbled across some Caiman (river crocodiles) on the path ahead. In true Steve Irwin fashion Andy crept up on the biggest one until it started hissing and slid down into the water. Continuing, we saw a couple of deer and some more coatis (these ones were actually quite timid) before turning back. It was then that we realised our guide had slightly
Pantanal
Toucan hiding in a tree. misjudged the time, and so as the sun set we found ourselves walking back through the forest by the light of a couple of very distant stars. After wading back through the water in the dark when something had just made a big splashy sound, and Laura realising that there was a snake between her sandelled feet, we were relieved to make it back to the boat, which was brilliantly guided back to the lodge by the light of fireflies alone.
After an early start the next morning we were canoed down the river by our guide and were pleased to spot a group of Capybara, the largest rodent in the world. It was a very peaceful way to travel, watching the kingfishers fishing, the monkeys leaping from tree to tree, and scanning the riverbanks for critters. Peaceful that is until Laura realised there was a spider in the canoe....
That afternoon we went horse riding (Laura's first, and Andy's second time ever). We both really enjoyed it despite Laura's horse being scared of the water and doing everything in its power to avoid it. This usually meant dragging Laura through a tree. Andy's horse, Frank, had no
Pantanal
Andy ¨The Caiman Hunter¨ Willis problems with the water but was strangly scared of dragonflies.
The next day brought another walk and a boat ride. We were joined by some other guests who, very annoyingly, could not understand the very simple concept that if you are quiet you might actually see some wildlife. We didn't spot much on the boat ride either - Laura thought she saw an anaconda, but conceded it might have been a tree.
Fishing was our next activity. We were both useless, with Andy catching a tree twice (seriously). However, a shout of "fish on!" from our fellow American guest, announced the capture of a piranha, which we all had a good look at before it was thrown back.
It was then time for another horse ride. Our guide had clearly noted our comments on the first horses as this time we both got upgraded to horses with power steering. As our gaucho (cowboy) guide took his machete to the overhanging leaves we rode through tall grasses and forests and were really pleased to see an armadillo in one of the clearings.
On our last mornings' walk we saw two small snakes and one really quite large
Pantanal
An ickle Brocketts Deer one before taking the long journey back to the city of Campo Grande.
Then it was on to the final destination of our Big Trip, Rio De Janeiro. We decided, particularly after our stay in the jungle, that we couldn't face a whole week in the city so opted initially for a hostel to the south of the city in an area called Macumba, a haven for surfers. Andy was keen to have another go at surfing after his first attempt in California last year. Laura, being a wuss, and generally scared of waves, was less keen, but the lesson was free so she thought she'd at least have a brief try. With alot of help from our instructor in actually catching the waves we both had a great time managing to stand up and pretending to be cool for a few seconds before getting wet. In fact Laura managed to stand up on her board on her second ever wave, a feat which miffed Andy, with him taking most of his Californian surf lesson to catch a couple of instants upright.
We then headed up the coast to our hotel in Ipanema. The beach setting was stunning,
Pantanal
Capybara far more so than we had imagined, and watching the locals strut around in their teeny very tight beachwear was quite entertaining/stomach churning (why the need for speedos?). We booked ourselves a tour for the following day where we would take in a few of the sights of Rio. Just as we were on our way a policeman jumped out in front of the van and pulled us over. He took the drivers details before making him get out of the car. Much talking was done but it wasn't until the driver returned to the van to get his wallet that the 'problem' was resolved and we continued on our way.
We were heading to a viewpoint called Pedra Bonita. Being a viewpoint, it was obviously at the top of a great big hill. The van crawled up the shallower part of the hill. When we got to the steep bit they told everyone to sit at the front of the van so that the front wheels didn't spin! The first attempt up the hill failed very quickly due to lack of power, so we headed backwards until we had a substantial run up. As we slowed to a
Pantanal
Hyacinth Macaw halt the second time we all leapt out (quite relieved that the handbrake had actually worked) and began the long slow walk up the very hot and humid hill. When we eventually made it to the top everybody almost simultaneously said 'wow' as we looked down the coast along the beaches and into the very centre of Rio. The next stop was to Corcovado Mountain and the 30m tall statue of Christo Redentor (Christ The Redeemer), which was very impressive, and again afforded us great views of Rio from the favellas (lawless shanty towns) to the biggest stadium in the world, the Maracana.
After five and a half months and seven countries we spent the last day of our Big Trip soaking up the 35 degree heat on the beaches at Copacabana and Ipanema before packing and getting ready for the long trip home .
A very weary (and cold) Andy and Laura were met at Teeside by Andy's parents with some very welcome bacon butties before being jumped on by a very excited labrador back at the house in Saltburn.
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Elsie & Mike
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Around the World in .........days!!
Hi, welcome back home - but its a shame as we'll really miss your blogs!!! We have enjoyed them very much. Where are you going to next?